Feeling a little braver today, Insturment panel removal.

[yellow98cobra]

No stripe but the connector on it looks just like the other ones around it

[yellow98cobra]

Got the headlight switch out and removed the extra wire that went to the flasher unit. The fuses are good, the whole unit is filthy greasey & grimey etc.. besides blowing it off how can I clean it with out disconnecting any wires?

[jopizz]

If you don't want to disconnect anything you can use some alcohol to clean it. If you are adventurous there's a procedure in the TRL to totally take it apart and clean the insides. Cleaning the outside probably won't make it work any better. Unless you clean the round resistor your instrument lights will probably be flaky.

John

[yellow98cobra]

I have read all of that without the TRL Info I would have never got the switch out. I thought I would go the other route and make the dash lights always on when you turn on the head lights as it shows in the TRL

If you don't want to disconnect anything you can use some alcohol to clean it. If you are adventurous there's a procedure in the TRL to totally take it apart and clean the insides. Cleaning the outside probably won't make it work any better. Unless you clean the round resistor your instrument lights will probably be flaky.

John

[yellow98cobra]

I removed the ignition switch and confirmed that the spliced in red wire is connected correctly as shown in the wiring diagrams. I did the dash light test as per the TRL and they worked normal but I had to shake the knob around to make them work. I have went ahead and connected the with a Y connection as described in the TRL.

[yellow98cobra]

New problem...

Gas, temp gauges & turn signals work (they at least moved to the middle) with the key in the on position, But they all quit when I start the car
Tryed it again...
I turned the car off key back to ON they work. started the car and they quit.
What do you think happened? I have detailed the things I have done in the previous posts.
FYI: I redid the CVR test and I can only get it to blink when I touch the negative post on the battery it will not blink any where else I touch it to ( I clipped one end to the (disconected) temp sending unit wire and then touched the other to various places).


The bright side here is I know how to take it all back apart

[simplyconnected]

...FYI: I redid the CVR test and I can only get it to blink when I touch the negative post on the battery it will not blink any where else I touch it to ( I clipped one end to the (disconected) temp sending unit wire and then touched the other to various places)...

This is an excellent place to start. It is also a situation we already covered.

I cannot stress the importance of TIGHT connections. Loose connections will give irratic results. Fuse holders must be tight as well. All the connections on your Key Switch and Headlight Switch must be tight.

If the battery negative post is the only place your test light works, your car's body or engine must not be grounded properly.

Put one test light lead on Battery Positive and keep it there. Go across the battery with the other lead. It should light. Next, check your new ground wire. Both ends should make the light shine. Add an extension and keep going up the body until you get under the dash. Verify your dash is grounded and verify your CVR is tightly grounded.

I hope you grounded your engine at the bell housing with #4 stranded copper wire per prior posts. You never verified that was completed.

If you suspect your key switch is not working properly, use your test light to verify it's operation. This time put your test light lead on Ground and keep it there. With the key in ACC, check the terminals. Only the ACC terminal should make your test light shine. Turning the key further to Start, makes the ACC and the START terminals hot at the same time. The spring returns the key to ACC, which should still be hot.

Let's hear your results. - Dave

[yellow98cobra]

Thanks for the reply. No I have not done the negative ground to bell housing wire yet, I have bought the wire. (I will do this first) I can not access that side of my car in the garage, I can barely fit on the passenger side to get to the battery. My thoughts & hopes are that I just knock something loose putting those switchs back in the dash as I had to handle them blindly to get them in.

I am going to take the rest of the week off and go to the beach & do some fishing. I will start fresh on Monday.

Thanks again Eric

[yellow98cobra]

Ok Mr. Dave...

I got the negative side of the battery routed to to the Bellhousing. One small ground wire to the inner fender wall. Tested with light, Positive post to negative post it lights up, Positive post to where it is grounded at the inner fender wall it lights up. Positive post to the top of the bell housing it lights up. Question, are these results correct? ( Did I do it right).

Car still is displaying the same problem as before.
1) Gauges and turn signals work with the key ON.
2) Gauges and turn signals stop working with the car running.
ACC/OFF/ON/START
On my ignition I cannot turn the key to the left or ACC, key will only move to the right from the OFF position it goes to On and START

[jopizz]

It sounds like you have it grounded correctly. As far as the ignition switch you answered your own question. It's defective. The big problem you will have is changing out the cylinder. You have to be able to turn the key to the accessory position to get it out. You can buy a new ignition switch with the cylinder and keys but then it won't match the door locks.

John

[yellow98cobra]

It sounds like you have it grounded correctly. As far as the ignition switch you answered your own question. It's defective. The big problem you will have is changing out the cylinder. You have to be able to turn the key to the accessory position to get it out. You can buy a new ignition switch with the cylinder and keys but then it won't match the door locks.

John

Getting it out? Do you mean removing it from the dash? Because I have had it out of the dash, I pushed the unit in from behind and turned the bezel a quarter turn to the left, and it came right out.

[jopizz]

No, I'm talking about removing the cylinder from the switch itself. It normally comes out so if you buy a new switch you can reuse it so you have the same key for the ignition and doors.

John

[yellow98cobra]

Ok Thanks, we will see what I get when I get it all apart again.

[simplyconnected]

...Question, are these results correct? ( Did I do it right)...On my ignition I cannot turn the key to the left or ACC, key will only move to the right from the OFF position it goes to On and START

Eric, you did well.

I'm with John regarding your Key Switch. It should normally turn to the right AND left. If you have the switch in your hand, notice a small metal button at the base of the tumbler. It's brass in color, inset in an oval hole (located nearly at the base of the large spring).

***Put your key all the way in, turn to the RIGHT (ignition posiion), poke that brass button down with a thin key , then pull straight out. The tumbler will easily come straight out.

To re-insert, put the key in the tumbler. Notce the brass button will only depress in one position. With the button down, slide the assembly in and line-up the brass button with the hole then turn to the left. The brass button will pop up and into position.

Key Switches are normally sold without the key and tumbler. You can find them WITH the key and tumbler if you need them (for about ten bucks more). - Dave

[yellow98cobra]

I have pulled the Ignition switch and the Light switch and I have found no loose connections. While I wait for the new Ignition switch to arrive. I thought I would move over to the Heater defroster slide switch. It will not move all the way to the left. What do I need to do to fix this?
Thanks Eric