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Project Snowbird - 1960 Hardtop
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John G:
The 6V / 12V is true except for my car. Since my orig. CVR was still working, I used it for my clock which converted it to a 6V clock voltage. The clock seems to run fine, at least so far. I'm not 100% sure this is the right way to go. My basics of electricity tells me that if you 1/2 the voltage, you double the amps. I think it is the amps that pit the points so I could have shot myself in the foot. Time will tell.
NylesComment
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Nyles, you will ruin the CVR with that kind of load. Take the CVR off ASAP and connect the clock to 12 volts directly. The clock operates by energizing an electromagnet for one big 'pulse'. It's a lot of current for a very short time. Since it is a pulse, there isn't enough time for anything to get hot so the clock works equally as well on six volts as it does on 12.
CVRs are designed for simple gauges that only draw milliamps. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Tim that " scale " model of the truck and squarebird is coolDano Calgary,Alberta Canada
Thunderbird Registry
58HT #33317
60 HT (Sold )Comment
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I had the game going on the TV in the garage and was working on Snowbird today. I decided to gut the dash. Actually, it was too hard to work on patching the wiring so I figured why not. I painted the dash with SEM Bluebird Brown which is almost identical to my original "84" trim dash color during half time and worked the rest of the dash according to the instructions here. Except for a few small differences the directions were a big help.
Might as well send my CVR to Dave while everything is out.
And replace the windshield.
And the defroster vents.
And the insulation.
And the antenna.
And the washer tubes.
And the glove box.
This is how all of my frame-off's start. I thought a unibody would keep me from doing this. Ugh
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Tim, buy a box of dash bulbs. They're cheaper if you buy them by the box of ten.
When you're ready to do the wiring, start with the obvious first. Two dash lights don't go to ground, the GEN light (Y-Bk) and the OIL light (W-R). So those lamp sockets will have two wires and no ground.
Next, find the RH & LH turn signal dash lights and pop them in.
All the rest of the Blue-Red dash lights can go in any hole.
Steering Column bullet connectors should be very straight forward.
If you have any inline fuse holders that are a pain to find or get to, extend the wires and put them in a place you can find if you're stuck on the road on Sunday night. I do all my splices with crimp-type connectors (no solder) for a positive and permanent connection.
Hope these ideas help. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Tim:
Things look pretty good. As for your list, you may also want to check the heater core. These cores have one of the hose nozzles bolted to the core body, with a rubber gasket compressed for a seal. I think this is a pretty common leak point.
As for the defroster ducts, there are repos made of fiberglass for about $90. My ducts were in pretty bad shape, but I ended up restoring them using fiberglass cloth and resin. Figure since you can't see them that would work fine and saved a few $$$$.
Another thing to check is the bracket that bolts the hand brake to the firewall. I've seen several of these broken and they can be removed and rewelded. Just a heads up.
NylesComment
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Tim, buy a box of dash bulbs. They're cheaper if you buy them by the box of ten.
When you're ready to do the wiring, start with the obvious first. Two dash lights don't go to ground, the GEN light (Y-Bk) and the OIL light (W-R). So those lamp sockets will have two wires and no ground.
Next, find the RH & LH turn signal dash lights and pop them in.
All the rest of the Blue-Red dash lights can go in any hole.
Steering Column bullet connectors should be very straight forward.
If you have any inline fuse holders that are a pain to find or get to, extend the wires and put them in a place you can find if you're stuck on the road on Sunday night. I do all my splices with crimp-type connectors (no solder) for a positive and permanent connection.
Hope these ideas help. - Dave
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Tim:
Things look pretty good. As for your list, you may also want to check the heater core. These cores have one of the hose nozzles bolted to the core body, with a rubber gasket compressed for a seal. I think this is a pretty common leak point.
As for the defroster ducts, there are repos made of fiberglass for about $90. My ducts were in pretty bad shape, but I ended up restoring them using fiberglass cloth and resin. Figure since you can't see them that would work fine and saved a few $$$$.
Another thing to check is the bracket that bolts the hand brake to the firewall. I've seen several of these broken and they can be removed and rewelded. Just a heads up.
Nyles
I am hoping to get the car done (not painted) for the Ford show in April. I have the time but not the money at the moment so April should be ok.
Do you go to this show? The guys at Larry's said drivers are welcome too.Comment
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The painter just left the house and said he could repaint it (scuff and spray) and repair the fender lip rust for about $4,000. The wife and I agreed and he will take it in two weeks.
I also got the windshield in today that I ordered on Ebay and it looks good. Of course, now that we are painting it I am going to wait on the installation.
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You are doing it right. Body, then Paint then Trim (glass is Trim). Before the windshield and backlite go in you should have your headliner the way you want it. Follow your Shop Manual for glass and moulding installation. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Thank you for the support Dave. This was not supposed to turn into a restoration but it is a nice car and deserves it. So much for my tax refund...
As you said, I need to pull off all the trim, bumpers and lights before I send it to the painter. I also need to keep it running WITHOUT putting the dash and interior back together. Will it run with the dash completely disconnected?
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Tim:
Do the pictures below look at all familiar? My dash was torn apart for quite a while and I was able to run it and move it in and out of the garage. You just need to make sure that all positive terminals are isolated so nothing will ground out. Your wiring appears to be in pretty nice shape so you sure don't want to burn it up.
BTW, I can't remember if you were going to install an electric wiper motor. If not, this is the time to check the old vacuum motor, since most of them are frozen from non use. Just one more thing to think about.
How was your transmission shift indicator? Loose or sloppy? The steering column is an easy removal with the dash out and things exposed.
NylesComment
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were you going to install a new firewall insulation piece?
when I had my dash removed, I replaced all the rotten tar paper stuff with one of those nice ABS plastic ones. It made a huge reduction in noise and heatComment
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