New Engine Runs Hot

[lawyercalif]

I got my car back from the shop yesterday. It runs great with the exception of it seems to be running a little hot. Probably because it has just been rebuilt and needs breaking in. I have driven it about 50 miles so far.
On the freeway it cruises at 70 fine and the temp gauge is reading 190, but when I get off the freeway and stop at light it goes to about 240. It does not boil over until I get home and shut it off then it starts ejecting water through the bypass hose.

I drove it last night when it was cool, and I drove it today when the outside temperature was 102. It still stayed at about 190 on the freeway and the same 240 at lights and in traffic. I have determined that the flex fan I installed is not sufficient. I have ordered a 6 bladed fan and a shroud from Larry's TBird. I hope that fixes it. The car has a new engine, trans and radiator with 13lb cap, the exhaust flapper has been welded open, the car runs great so I am hoping that the new fan and shroud will do the trick.

[YellowRose]

New Engine Runs Hot

Hi Daniel! I am sorry to hear that you have an overheating problem. Did they recore or replace the radiator when they were working on the car? What about the thermostat? It could just be from breaking in the new engine and it might settle down. A six bladed flex fan and shroud might certainly do the trick. Both of mine have worked very well for me. My radiator was recored during the restoration process also. She runs cool so far. I had her out in mid to high 90's heat the other day and the needle stayed on the T in Temp. Good luck with it and let us know what fixes it.

[JohnG]

There are many possible details to check. The situations you describe are perhaps a worst case scenario for heat.

Some considerations:

* the radiator should be 4 row I believe.
* coolant is preferable to water. Also there are additives such as Liquid Kool that help conduct heat a bit beyond ordinary coolant.
* the shroud and 6 blade fan are a good combination. The distance the fan is from the radiator is a detail worth investigating
* check your engine timing. Advanced timed engines run hotter.
* if your air/fuel mixture is quite lean, it can cause the engine to run hotter
* make sure your idle is low. An idling motor gets rid of little heat so making less heat helps matters
* you can consider a modern oil that reduces friction hence heat production (just make sure and add zinc)
* flush the engine block to get rid of rust that might inhibit heat conduction.

No one magic bullet but a little gain here, a little gain there.

You might consider setting up an overflow bottle to capture what you lose when you park. It can then get sucked back in when things cool if set up right (basically what a modern car has).

Just my opinions . . .

John

[lawyercalif]

Ray the radiatior was replaced with a new one from Larrys Thunderbird. Pretty sure the problem is the fan and lack of shroud. It only gets hot when in traffic. The 190 on the freeway is not bad considering the engine only has 50 miles on it. The fact that it did not get hotter even though the temp here got to 102 today, tells me that my problem is most likely air flow.

What temperature is the T? I have a new Classic Gauge which shows degrees, however it could be off, but I do not think so.

[Dakota Boy]

6-blade fan, a simply chrome "universal" shroud, and Water Wetter works for me. 80/20 mix of water/antifreeze. The Water Water is more effective when you use more water (or at least that's what the product label says).

180-190 all day long when driving, maybe 210 if its hot outside and I;m sitting in a traffic backup.

[dgs]

Keep in mind that if you fill the expansion tank to the rim it'll spit some out until it's an inch or so below the top. Also, it has been my understanding that if it retains the coolant, the gauge reading isn't that important. That was referring to the factory numberless gauge, however, sounds like you've got one that's a bit more accurate.

So, if it only spits out coolant at rest the one time, maybe it's just burping out the excess and you'll be fine now.

... coolant is preferable to water ...

I read the opposite in Car and Driver (a two part editorial / interview with a dude from Zerex, here and here). The coolant provides extra freeze protection and rust inhibitors, but actually transfers heat worse than 100% water.

If you could get the rust inhibitors only and add that to water, that should cool better it said. There were a couple recommendations, but this was 10 years ago (!), so I'm not sure what's available now.

[dgs]

Found some Racing Super Coolant on eBay (and other places too, Google 'Valvoline VV858'), it says it's been discontinued. I couldn't find it on the Valvolene / Zerex website.

They do have something called Zerex Super Protector that sounds like the additives with no anti-freeze.

[YellowRose]

New Engine Runs Hot

Since I added the 6 bladed flex fan and the metal shroud off a '63 Galaxy my temperature range is usually on the T or slightly higher if I am sitting and idling. I do not know what that is in the way of degrees because I have not measured it. I seem to remember someone posting, some time ago, a gradient readout of what the various marks on the temp gauge should indicate. I will see if I can find it.

[KULTULZ]

The first thing needed is to notify the rebuilder. Also ask what degree thermostat he used.

Run coolant mixture, not water. Straight water is meant for race cars only. You also might experience an early freeze.

If she only heats in traffic, it has inadequate airflow through the radiator. If the blade and shroud upgrade doesn't do it completely, think of an external engine oil/trans cooler(s).

[Dakota Boy]

my car sits in a heated garage all winter...

[Dakota Boy]

I KNEW I had seen a temp gauge drawing somewhere here on this site....

Click the link and read the first post. Then click on the second attachment in that first post.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=516&highlight=temp+gauge

[dgs]

But that's only accurate for that guy's gauge, I think these gauges have been rather inconsistent, likely more so after 50 years.

Mine generally runs between the M and P, when it's full of coolant. It also slowly seems to loose coolant somewhere and the gauge will start to creep up. I'm thinking some engine work is in order, at least a top end rebuild, but I'm trying to watch the fluid levels and enjoy it as long as I can 'cause I can't spend the $$ right now.

[lawyercalif]

I am still waiting on my 6 blade fan and shroud to come in. However, yesterday I tried advancing the timing because I was getting some backfire through the carburetor when stepping down fast on the accelerator. Not only did advancing the timing fix the backfire but it also dropped my normal running temperature about ten degrees.

[KULTULZ]

Well, at least you found the problem. The re-builder should not have released the car with the timing out of spec...

[Jimz Bird]

I am still waiting on my 6 blade fan and shroud to come in.

I just ran across this for 58-60 Birds:

http://thunderbirdsouthwest.com/index.php/parts-for-sale/77-1958-1959-1960-thunderbird-fan-shrouds.html

Shroud is $179.00 and 6 metal blade fan is $66.50.

I don't know if that is the going rate elsewhere or not.