My '66 Hardtop Town Build

[Cwcb08]

So I got a few min the the garage today before I had to go checkout and make a deal on a new boat ( a '18.5 1979 surf master trihull bow rider with a 140 mercruiser i/o, sold our little fishing boat yesterday ). Hooked up my multimeter between the battery and the chassis and pulled every fuse until the amp draw stopped, its the emergency warning 20A, next is find out where in the circuit is causing this particular problem.

[OUR5T8BIRD]

So I got a few min the the garage today before I had to go checkout and make a deal on a new boat ( a '18.5 1979 surf master trihull bow rider with a 140 mercruiser i/o, sold our little fishing boat yesterday ). Hooked up my multimeter between the battery and the chassis and pulled every fuse until the amp draw stopped, its the emergency warning 20A, next is find out where in the circuit is causing this particular problem.

There are two relays in the trunk just to the right of your sequential signal light package . These are most likely gone bad . Also, the switch for these relays in the overhead console for the emergency flasher lights is worn out or in the ' on ' position and the light indicator is burnt out .

ps. I have these relays if interested. Previous Bird owner never picked up after I purchased them .

[Cwcb08]

I have replaced those relays with 3 Bosch style relays in the early stages of this thread. So it shouldn't be that, not sure if its the flasher relays or brake relay that also buzz when I hit the brakes maybe need a diode in there somewhere or something..

The bulb works it flashes with the hazards. And the switch works to turn the hazards on and off.

Hopefully get to look at it today some more

[Cwcb08]

So I tried to find an obvious leak in the power steering system but didn't have any luck with the car on the ground so I just topped up the pump res and will deal with it later.

Then I started the car and after it ran for a minute or two disconnected the battery, it instantly died, any suggestions on how to test the alternator/regulator?

I also found out what relay is causing the issue with my 4ways/brake/turn buzzing with the help of my daughter, she worked the brake pedal while i was in the trunk ( car was off just key in the acc position )

Its the stop light relay, with it disconnected the front 4 ways work, the brake and turns also both work, just the rear 4 ways are disabled, now I at least have somewhere to work from.

[OUR5T8BIRD]

So I tried to find an obvious leak in the power steering system but didn't have any luck with the car on the ground so I just topped up the pump res and will deal with it later.

Then I started the car and after it ran for a minute or two disconnected the battery, it instantly died, any suggestions on how to test the alternator/regulator?

I also found out what relay is causing the issue with my 4ways/brake/turn buzzing with the help of my daughter, she worked the brake pedal while i was in the trunk ( car was off just key in the acc position )

Its the stop light relay, with it connected the front 4 ways work, the brake and turns also both work, just the rear 4 ways are disabled, now I at least have somewhere to work from.

On our '66 , if I activate the four way emergency lights, front and rear flash on and off like they should . If I step on the brake, the emergency lights stop flashing . When I release the brake, they start right up again . Hope this helps . BTW, ours is a convertible so do not have the two extra relays in the trunk .

[Dan Leavens]

Cody always good to have a good helper

[Cwcb08]

I got looking at the diagrams a little closer and it looks like the relay in question is normally closed where I thought it was normally ope. So I wired it the other way and then the rear 4 ways work ( no front flashers ) but they can not be turned off, agh.

Maybe ill just wire up my spare orange strobe with a cigarette lighter plug to put in the back window if ever required haha

[Cwcb08]

Grrr, so I bypassed the voltage regulator by supplying 12v directly to the field terminal ( just for a few seconds ) on the alternator and my battery voltage came up to 15v so I thought it was the regulator. I replaced that (only 30$ ) and its still not charging unless I jump the F terminal and still dies when I disconnect the battery, looking for suggestions what to try next?

I am also getting 12v on all 3 legs of the regulator, ignition, field & battery so the new regulator is working

[jopizz]

It can only be three things; the alternator, voltage regulator or wiring. If you are getting 15V when you jump the regulator then it seems like your alternator is good. Since you replaced the regulator that leaves the wiring. Check it both to the alternator and where it goes through the firewall. Use the schematics in the TRL or shop manual to trace the colors.

John

[Cwcb08]

Well I fixed it, the morons who the PO had do the motor work connectes the alternator wrong, the field and gnd wires were reversed at the alternator, I caught on to it when chasing where the wires go, field should be white at the alt, and gnd was black-red.

Thanks for the reply jopizz I just saw it when I came to post this

I'm glad I bought the digital manual back at the beginning

[jopizz]

Well I fixed it, the morons who the PO had do the motor work connectes the alternator wrong, the field and gnd wires were reversed at the alternator, I caught on to it when chasing where the wires go, field should be white at the alt, and gnd was black-red.

Thanks for the reply jopizz I just saw it when I came to post this

I'm glad I bought the digital manual back at the beginning

At least it was an easy fix. Unfortunately you spent money on a new regulator. If you can't bring it back you have a good spare to keep with you anyway.

John

[Cwcb08]

What is the 4th terminal on the regulator for? Ive seen diagrams online that show something about a dash light? What does that light indicate? Can it be added to my car?

At least it was an easy fix. Unfortunately you spent money on a new regulator. If you can't bring it back you have a good spare to keep with you anyway.

John

I am going to leave the new one installed but will keep the old one in the parts box because I'm not sure if it is dead and a spare of things never hurts

[jopizz]

The "I" terminal wasn't used on cars with ammeters like yours but I don't see any reason why you can't connect a light to it. Here's the schematic from a 1963 Thunderbird showing how it's wired.

John

[Cwcb08]

When does the light come on?

That diagram looks like its wired to the ignition wire?

On mine would it just go from the unused terminal to gnd? Is the resistor required?

[jopizz]

The light would come on when you turn the key to the ON position and go off when the car starts and begins charging. You need 12V on both sides of the light to turn the light off which is why one side is connected to the ignition switch. Just connecting a light to the I terminal won't work. Normally the alternator won't start charging if it doesn't see 12V through the light to the Field terminal which is why the resistor is used. If the light burns out it will still charge. How it's charges without using the idiot light on 64-66 Thunderbirds is a good question. Maybe Dave can chime in on that.

John