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Can anyone tell me of a decent (inexpensive) windsheild wiper replacement for a 59 T-bird? I also need to find a brake light electrical connector for my combination valve like this.
When I get ready to do mine in the spring, this will be the kit I purchase.
I also recommend getting the intermittent delay switch and the shaft extension, so that you can use your original knob. Totally stealth; I like it.
I highly suspect they're getting the wiper kit from Newport Engineering. Most every kit I've seen or researched from various suppliers are actually supplied by Newport. Try googling them, go to their website and see if you can get a better deal going direct to the manufacturer.
Alan H. Tast AIA, LEED AP BD+C
Technical Director/Past President, Vintage Thunderbird Club Int'l.
Author, "Thunderbird 1955-1966" & "Thunderbird 50 Years"
Alan, you are right. JPL in Aliquippa, PA, sells New Port Engineering's wiper systems. I bought two from them and I couldn't be happier. This company ships for free. Not that it matters but, I did not order through eBay. I called JPL directly and used my credit card instead of PayPal.
I called New Port to order a knob extension. They don't cut any deals and the distributors sell their stuff cheaper. I was disappointed because it would have been cheaper had I ordered the part with the wiper system. Shipping would have been free, too. Oh, BTW, all sales are shipped direct from New Port's factory.
Marcelo, are you sure Morris Jeep sells pigtails for FORD combination prop valves? - Dave
I'll look into the wipers and eventually get those for sure.
I was in Albuquerque following a Craigslist add for an Autolite 4100 a young kid had. I also went by another guys house to buy a 3.89 3rd member, he happened to have a bunch of wiring harnesses and gave me the connector for the brakes.
The kid with the carb had bought a mustang a few years ago and the guy gave him the carb with it. I got it for $40 and it's in fantastic shape. He even had a paper with it that showed it was from "Pony carburetors" in Las Cruces NM. (No longer around) It has a lot of dust but looks like it may have already been rebuilt. It was a good day for parts hunting!
I'll have to get under my car and measure the yoke today - cross my fingers that it's the same as the one on the 3.89. I thought there may have been two different size yokes but the guy selling it told me there are a BUNCH of different sizes. It looks like it's the right one from pictures of mine but have to measure it to be sure.
Hm, I hooked up my brake wires to the proportioning valve with the new connector and my brake lights are on all the time. All i can figure is the proportioning valve switch is stuck. Does that sound correct to you guys? Any idea on how to fix it, or should i just buy a new one?
I had "constant" brake lights on my car when we first started wiring it. The dude who was helping me found two wires under the dash that were fused together.
Probably not your problem... but strange things certainly can happen with these old cars.
Hm, I hooked up my brake wires to the proportioning valve with the new connector and my brake lights are on all the time...
I never heard of brake light circuits connected to proportioning valve. The combination proportioning valve has an electrical connection that grounds a warning light when a problem occurs. It should have nothing to do with brake lights.
To reset your valve:
Step on the brake pedal HARD.
If that doesn't do the job, you need to crack either the rear or front hydraulic brake line and press the pedal slowly until the warning light goes out.
I would like to know how you tied the new valve into your electrical system. - Dave
Well, I believe my original single cylinder master cylinder had a connector on it with 2 wires. (I'll have to double check old pictures) I thought those were the brake lights switch. So when I put in the proportioning valve tha is pictured in my first post on this thread I thought it was for the brake lights, so I finally got around to getting a connector to fit it and wired it the other day.
Some google searches found the same thing that you said about pumping the brakes real hard to reset the switch. Sounds like I need to get my shop manual out and see what's what.
My temperature gauge doesn't seem to work either. Is that usually a bad sensor on the intake manifold? Also, could it be related to the fact that I closed off the exhaust crossover in my intake manifold and that keeps the intake too cool for it to register?
Take the wire off the temp sender and ground it to the manifold. Turn the key on. If the needle goes all the way to Hot then the gauge is good and it's the sender that's bad.
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