Want to bring some luster back

[del]

...to the finish of my black bird. According to the PO, she retains about 80% of her original paint. She's an in-season daily driver quality ride, and most of the paint is decent, but my annual spring waxings and summertime hand washings are not getting at what appear to be old water spots and such on the finish. This is especially noticeable on the horizontal surfaces --roof, hood and trunk lid areas.

I want to try to do something about this in the spring when she comes out of hibernation. I am an absolute notice car finish-wise. Can I remedy this with electric buffer & pads & some sort of polishing / rubbing compound?

[del]

Did I mention...?

Did I mention that I do not own and never have operated an electric buffer? Yes, I have reached the ripe old age of 62 and have never had the pleasure!

I was expecting an avalanche of suggestions and other responses to this topic and was surprised that no one opined. So, I asked The Google, and she helped me find some useful, interesting and sometimes conflicting info on keeping your car’s finish clean and shiny. Clay bar … who knew?

If this is to be my spring-time project, looks like I need to get a multi-speed polisher / buffer. Harbor Freight has them in the $40-50 range. Like THIS ONE. Online reviews are pretty good. The paint on my car isn’t heavily oxidized, but does have a fair amount of swirling and water spots and some areas especially around trim pieces that show a dullness to the finish. This article covers all the basics, and seems to be a good place to start for me. http://classiccars.about.com/od/main.../paintcare.htm
The 1 owner car guy's wit is a bit of an acquired taste , but he does some good show-and-tell for us novices. Buffs out an oxidized red 72 Buick http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgpeU0aDWiA Degreasing and clay bar blue (clay bar starts at 15:30) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEA8O31lmAI

These two seem more appropriate for modern finishes.
Method #2 clay bay, buff with foam pad - http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Swirls-from-Black-Cars
Use of Black Car Wax - http://www.wikihow.com/Wax-a-Black-Car

More to come!

[simplyconnected]

del, if you want to get yourself in a whole lot of trouble, go ahead, buy the buffer and 'wheel' away. I guarantee you will regret it.

Most folks have never used a buffer, and for good reasons. There is a lot to this and there are many variables between car finishes and even paint colors.

I suggest you go to a body and paint shop and pick the brains of those who buff new paint jobs. If you simply 'go at it', you may have huge chunks of paint come off your car from overheating, or you might burn down to the metal in high areas. Metal flake and solid colors polish differently, too.

The idea behind a buffing is to cut the top off your paint. So, which compounds do you use? There are dozens, for different purposes. Seek professional help for your specific needs.

I hope I saved you from disaster. - Dave

[lexdownunder]

Hi Del
Take note of Dave's remarks & stay away from electric buffs. It may take longer to hand rub but the results are sooooo much better & no chance of overheating the paint.
I have a raven black 59 Del & had the same problem last year that you have now (water marks on the paint that won't polish out)
Here is the method I used & it was recommended to me by an automotive spray painter where I used to work. Works a treat!!!!

Clay bar is the only way to remove the marks & any other "foreign" matter in/on the paint.
Being in Australia, I can only buy clay bars in a pack together with a 473ml bottle of detailer. I buy Meguiars Quick Detailer including two clay bars. Mothers also supply a detailer & clay bars in a pack. (Mothers California Gold Clay Bar)
Maybe in the U.S you can purchase clay bars seperately but I sure can't in Australia.

Method as follows:
1. Do a small area at a time. Lightly spray the area with the Detailer & use the clay bar in a back & forth movement over that area. The detailer is only used as a lubricant to stop the clay bar from sticking to the surface. I have been told that a light spray of water is just as good as using detailer as a lubricant.
2. When clay barring is complete, use Meguiars Scratch X 2.0 either with a microfibre cloth or a foam applicator. This will remove any remaining light scratches or swirls on the paint.
3. Finish with Meguiars NXT Tech Wax 2.0. Apply with the foam applicator supplied & buff with micro fibre cloth.

I think you will find that this method will work Del.
It sure did for me. The "secret" is it will take time because of hand rubbing but definitely worth it.

Good Luck Del
Lex

[Buckaroo]

I use the clay bar but also use Mequiars polish before I wax. On my wife's Guards Red Porsche we polished it, by hand, before waxing and the paint really shines and looks deep. I don't think you can beat Mequiars.

[del]

Thanks so much for the replies, guys. I certainly don't want to make things worse so I appreciate the cautions. Looks like I'll be giving the clay bar / hand polish approach a go come springtime. I'm happy to cross the buffer off my shopping list!

Lex - I especially appreciate your detailed instructions and the product info, and the fact the you have a black car!

Still very much winter here in beautiful Buffalo NY. Expecting another 6-12" of snow tonight with low temp around 20F.

[del]

micro fiber drying cloths

WOW. Whomever invented these is hopefully a cazillionaire!

[pcjr]

buffer

I have done a number of cars using a buffer. The key is unless you have extensive experience, do not use a standard buffer. It would safe for you to use a dual action*orbital type buffer/polisher with varying grades of foam hex pads. Lowes will normally carry the porter cable brand which is quite good. It will save you hours if not days of rubbing and the results are much better. I would suggest you search some of the internet auto detailing forums. They offer a lot of advice. Also check chemical guys website. They have everything you need as well as great advice.

[DaveSouthampton]

I have this morning gone and spent quite a lot of money on cleaning and detailing stuff.

I've been doing quite a bit of research and I've bought a G3 Clay mitt. Its meant to be a lot easier to use than a bar and you just rinse it regularly while using it.

http://www.g3pro.com/product/body-prep-clay-mitt/

This is the procedure that I've found ...

1) I've washed it with a type of shampoo that should remove all wax's etc. and stuff like that. I used the 2 bucket method.

What I read convinced me not to use a chamois to dry it as the wiping action can marr the paint. I used this product and patted it dry by laying it on and lightly patting it so it didnt move. It worked very well.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165609

2) I'm going to use the clay mitt with the shampoo as lubricant.

3) Then I'll gently polish it.

4) Lastly I'll wax it.

5) Providing it all goes as plans, I'll then use a rapid detailer periodically as I'm hoping the polish and wax I've got will last through the summer.

My other car is a 1937 Ford 7W and that would take 30 mins ... my squarebird is gonna take hours and hours... but its more enjoyable

As I ran out of time to start doing anythign where I had to do the whole car, I started cleaning the engine bay with a degreasing spray.... what a difference, and I've only done about 1/4.

Taken lots of photos of the before Hoping the after will make me want to take lots of pics too.

So many people over here are waiting to see it ( I'm still waiting on my plates ) that I want it to look the best it can.