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Old 04-12-2012, 10:28 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
Slow Typist
Join Date: May 26 2009
Posts: 7,439
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I love Doug's pictures and he does great work.

You should take pictures, too. Lots of them. It's a pain to stop what you're doing and pick up a camera with Doug's greasy hands, but well worth it later on (for us).

99% of every restoration is cleaning/de-rusting/painting. Take your time and do it right. When I stripped the rust off my "A" arms with hydrochloric acid, I did it in a kiddie pool I borrowed from the dogs. After they were painted and the bushings installed, they looked brand new.

Another trick I use is, mark everything. You may not need to but my '55 upper arm shafts come with one side longer than the other. Before disassembly, I stamped the upper front with "R" or "L". Little helps like this really help with assembly.

Some of my bushing sleeves were rusted in. I used a little heat. The urethane melts out then the shells come out much easier. Pounding new bushings in is easier with a 1-1/4" pipe nipple and a good heavy hammer.

None of this work is for the faint-hearted. Suspension work is bull work and it requires big tools. When you are ready to mount the lower arms, install the rear bolts first (snug but not tight) and fill the gap in the front with shims before you bolt the front side. This is how the factory did it.

None of your bushings pivot on the shafts. Each have inner and outer sleeves with urethane in between. You will notice teeth on the ends of the inner sleeves, (so they don't turn when tightened). I greased my bolts before assembly, just to inhibit future rust. Hope this helps and good luck with your new suspension. It sure makes a big difference when done, especially if you also replace your old springs. - Dave
My latest project:
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca

Last edited by simplyconnected : 04-12-2012 at 10:30 PM.
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