01-19-2009, 11:04 PM
Join Date: Apr 27 2008
58 Rear Bushing archived information
I found a lot of information in my archives on 58 rear suspension bushings, however it is all 8-10 years old. I even found Fuz's email about Rare parts from 1999. the info I have is quite voluminous think. There are names and email contacts that perhaps can be followed up on for making and fabricating new bushings. I have pasted many previous emails and postings below for all to read.
Best Birding, Jed 58ht
From: Bob Claborne <email@example.com>
Subject: Re: Squarebirds - Re: 58 rear bushings
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 08:54:50 -0800com>
Some time ago one of our list members posted the following solution for the
58 rear bushing problem...
>From: RMeier@micro.honeywell.com (Meier, Roger)
>Subject: 58 Suspension Bushings
>Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 15:04:20 GMT
>John D, Jon R, and others,
>Sorry it took so long to reply, but the file was buried petty deep. Here
is what I found from an old tech tip originally written by Jerry Byers of
Dallas (who gave me permission to use this). His car BTW can be found on
the front cover of the Aug/Sept 89 Scoop magazine, and is now owned by one
of the band members of the rock group ZZ TOP.
>The casting material is sold by Devcon as Flexane 80. It is available in
a 1 (cost $16 about 6 years ago) or 10 lb can and in a liquid or putty form
(get the liquid form). The "80" is the hardness of the cured material.
The Flexane is available in hardness from 30 (Shore A scale) to 94. The 80
is just a little harder than the original bushings and appears to hold up
very well. It performs very well over a wide temperature range. The
Flexane 80 is also available in a fast cure version (Flexane 80 SF) that
can be demolded in about an hour. It should be obtainable from a supplier
of industrial rubber products. Jerry obtained his from Texas Rubber in
>Two molding techniques were used. The loose bushings (part nos 5537-A &
-B, and 5536-B) were molded using plaster of Paris molds. The molds can be
built using old bushings, that have been repaired with putty or play doh,
as masters. The molds should be built to separate along the center seam
like the original part molds were, and make sure to put a couple of dowels
or something in the lower half mold while it is curing so the two halves of
the mold will register to each other. Vasoline makes a good release agent
so you don't have to destroy the mold to get the part out.
>The bushings that were pressed into the arms, are cast into the arms in
this process. Remove the old bushings (part nos 5549-A and 5555-B) from
the cross arm and keep the center steel sleeves that were used as cores for
the bushings. These will be used as the cores for the new bushings that
are permanently cast into the ends of the arm. Clean the sleeves and the
casings that the bushings will be cast into very thoroughly, making sure to
get all grease and oil off the surfaces. To do the casting you will need
to build a jig out of wood, play doh, what have you, and of course duct tape.
>Make a jig that will hold the steel core centered with and coaxial to the
outer casing and extending an equal amount from each end of the casing.
Use a dowel to hold the center core in place. the fixture should be
relieved on the end below the casing so the urethane can extend a little
beyond the end of the casing. Build a rim around the top end of the casing
so the urethane can extend a little past the upper end of the casing also.
This will keep the thing from sliding to the side during use. Make sure to
seal the bottom and inside the core to keep the urethane inside the mold
and out of the core. When you make the pour, do it slowly to avoid
trapping air inside the mold. The mixed urethane will remain liquid for
about ten minutes before it jells so you don't have to hurry. It is
difficult to get these things apart (the urethane bonds well to the metal
if you have cleaned it and it is oil free) so do it right the first time.
When the part has cured take it off the jig, trim off the flash, and let it
finish curing for the required time.
>Good luck, and if you see any ways to improve the process or make the jigs
better, please post them to the list for the rest of us.
At 19:40 14/2/99 EST, you wrote:
>TO Michael Wylde firstname.lastname@example.org
>I also own a 58 conv. I had the front and rear suspension rebuilt a year ago.
>I was able to find a decent set of used rear bushinthat have held up so far
>but I am also looking for remade or NOS. I have heard of someone who made
>molds but can't get a name or address. I will continue to look and let you
>know if I come up wiyh anything. Please do the same for me.
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 18:00:57 EST
Subject: Re: Digest Number 17
Adam Rocha, I own a 58 convert. In the past year I have had discussions with
other 58 owners regarding rear suspension busings and dampers.After a lot of
research of std. suspension parts I located a source for urethane
replacements that are perfect replacements and are in my car and improved my
ride dramatically. I have been adding a modest handling charge to my cost and
re-selling the set for $200 including shipping. If you want more info contact
me at email@example.com
Subject: '58 shocks etc.
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 20:08:36 -0500
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the 1949 - 1959 ford car illustrated parts & accessories catalog shows
the '58 t'bird shock instalation. production installation ,outside the
front coil spring; item # 18124 (pending outcome of air suspension
decision). service installation , inside the coil spring ; item # 18124
(different shock mounting at btm.) the area outside of coil was behind
the front ball joint at btm. a'frame through hole to bracket at upper
spring member /spring tower. orig order part # b8s 18124-ar
rear installation was 18125, order part # b8s 18125-a (rotunda) r22m
on my '58 restoration, i replaced the shocks the same as original
production instalation (outside of coil springs) and did not see any
need for two sets. purchased same from rick muck's (buffalo) t'bird
parts & restoration.
while on subject of '58 restoration; i rebuilt the complete rear
suspension system. since none of the bushings etc. were available, i
stripped down whole rear end, pressed out all used bushings & took
everything to a industrial roller & rubber company. had them cut old
rubber of off sleeves & re-lamminate to my specifications ( measured all
bushing bores and came up to interferance fit. ( .010 to .020") and
pressed new bushings back in.they pressed in like a glove (sorry juice)
and worked perfectly. I did this about 10 years ago.it is important to
come up with the proper durometer for material used (thats rubber
hardness)they will know from old material before cutting it off old
metal sleeves inside bushings. the new material used in todays markets
is far superior to '58. small industrial packaging companies in your
area with conveyer systems will know someone in this type of bussiness.
also,, truck & trailer repaire shops use an assortment of this typeof
bushings & buy them by the foot. they may just have the right size.
worth a look.
if more info is desired on this, let me know. i probably have the sizes
on file somewhere. whatever you do, dont throw out your old bushings
before you have new ones or have some made.the old bushing sleeves are
yours etc. martin b.
trailing arm bushings
Subject: Re: Digest squarebirds.v1999.n233
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 21:18:22 EDT
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Sometime ago I posted a message regarding rear bushings for the 58. I own a
58 convert. and installed replacement trailing arm bushings and dampers that
I found are avail from a commercial supplier.These eight bushings must be
eventually replaced unless you want your rear end floating around and
possibly cracking as mine did. The rides 100% better! If anyone wants to
purchase a complete set of trailing arm bushings and dampers for about
$175.00 ,email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
'58HT and '48 Dodge Panel in MN
Thunderbird Registry #3810 VTCI#7652