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Old 09-20-2017, 01:29 AM
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Infinite, I just went through this, it's actually pretty fun tackling this job and I feel you should be able to do it without issue.
I got my parts from Tee-Bird in PA. http://www.tee-bird.com/

I bought upper and lower ball joints, outer tie rods, idler arm bushing, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, shocks, new rubber coil isolaters ( i could of re used my old ones ). I like your idea of replacing the INNER rods as well, although they can be a little more expensive as you have mentioned. Typically, inner rods wear LESS than the outer rods, so I reused mine. If it is in your budget however, I would definetly opt to replace them.

It's really not hard at all to do this yourself providing you have a couple floor jacks and jackstands. You do have to follow the shop manual method as it is very informing about the job. Do you have a shop manual handy ? If not I will copy/paste the procedure from mine.

Once i had the upper control arms off, I was able to drill out the massively strong Ford rivets and remove the old worn out upper ball joint. This is a great time to inspect the arm for cracks, abnormalities, etc. I'm not entirely sure of the quality of the ball joints from Tee-Bird outside of they provided all the hardware and grease zerk as you would expect. And they have been great so far. You could potentially sandblast your parts and then paint them if you have access to that which is what I did on my LOWER arms, as I had found small cracks which after sandblasting we welded it back up.

Don't remember the lowers being riveted on, think they were a bolt-on affair. I followed the torque on these.


To lower the coil spring its important you have a good floor jack under the control arm facing the other side of the car, Then you can raise/lower it best.

I didn't really run into any snags during this project, besides forgetting to install the lower control arm shims which I posted about recently. You will find them once you remove your lower control arms and just be sure that you get it shimmed up again good when you go to re install it with the new bushings.

I got some pictures of some of it, im sure others will chime in.

Heres a picture of when I removed the passenger side coil spring. Many of these parts were greasy/dirty and all needed a thorough once over.



As you can see by my position of my jack its real easy this way to control the arm. Make sure your under the notch of the spring pocket.



After you manage the drill the heck out of your original A arms, you can get the new ball joints mounted.



I had some weird cracking on my lower arms which we fixed.



The more room you have to do this job makes it much easier

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Last edited by simplyconnected : 09-20-2017 at 06:24 PM. Reason: Addition
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