Originally Posted by inheritance
...No shims are required at the rear whatsoever.
...The shims probably could be ANY washer, the ones on my car have a small portion of the circle which is flat. Although it does not seem this is required as there is nothing to interfere with these particular washers...
(Aaron, I deleted that huge picture because it was wider than 800 pixels.)
Originally Posted by simplyconnected
...Proper procedure is to bolt the lower 'A' arm to the #2 crossmember first (that's the rear bolt) with no shims. Then, shim the front bolt until all the extra space is gone...
Originally Posted by Tbird1044
...You said to tighten the rear bolt/bushing and then shim the front...
I did not intend to indicate that any of the bolts be tightened until the car is sitting in the normal stance. My instruction is to 'bolt', and I can see where you might construe this to mean 'tighten', but NO, not yet.
The 'A' arms do not pivot on these bolts. When the bolts are tight, the teeth in the inner bushing dig in to ensure no motion will happen on the bolt. All motion pivots about the urethane, which is why these arms need to be centered before tightening.
Here's my warning: If you tighten while the wheels hang, you will certainly hyper-twist and break the urethane on the first speed bump you go over. Then, new bushings will soon be in your car's future.
Some members swear that there are NO shims in their Squarebird's lower 'A' arm. (I find that to be very improbable.) Other members didn't see any until they started cleaning the front bolt areas. It seems the washers were rusted onto the crossmember, then they fell out when agitated.
The first shims Ford used were a large 1/16" thick square steel with a 7/8" hole. Later, Ford changed to using round shims (or washers). There is nothing fancy or technical about these shims. Aaron is right, any mild steel will work even if you have to make them.
How much can you force more shims in? Remember, they 'stack' with the urethane bushing so, a little tight or loose will be compensated for by the urethane in the bushing.
Nyles wants to know if adding shims to the lower rear bolt will modify the alignment. It sure will. Think of it; by moving the lower 'A' arm forward, that moves the lower ball joint forward. Normally, we shim just the upper 'A' arm to adjust both caster and camber.
It's a combination of these shims because they too can have different thickness on each side of the same upper 'A' arm.
Aaron's Brakes: How did you adjust the output shaft on your booster? - Dave