Vern, I'm sorry your regulator went out. I'm SURE your grounded Field wire was the cause. The field wire could use a 5-amp fuse mounted at the regulator. If the wire shorts, the fuse will protect and save your regulator (and about $50). Ever estimate how much you saved by finding the problem for yourself? A garage might tell you anything. Now, you know the real problem (in addition to the broken brush spring). - Dave
The interesting thing about the voltage regulator is that my car came with a spare. I put the spare on the car while I was trying to figure out what was wrong. After I fixed the generator I held the field wire against battery and measured armature output. Sure enough it went to full output which showed the regulator was bad. (you nay remember that when I did that before fixing the generator the field wire got instantly too hot to hold). I put the original regulator back in and everything works now. I would have thought that the original regulator would have been fried after being hooked up to the grounded field wire for who know how many years.
A small update from Europe:
I take the time on my first 'generator-experience' (in the little sparetime I have right now) and have cleaned it the best way I could so far. Only some little paintjobs in the near future to complete it.
Almost ready to re-assemble and go on from there.......
Ford Generator Resistance checks for 6-volt and 12-volt
Set multi-meter for the lowest OHM scale (200-ohms)
The only difference between the six and twelve volt generators is the Field Coils
Keep one prod tightly connected to the generator case post, 'G'.
Tightly connect the other prod to the Field post, 'F'.
6-volt generator - The meter should read, 2.3 - 2.7-ohms.
12-volt generator - The meter should read, 7.2 - 7.6-ohms.
Disconnect the 'F' prod from the previous test, and connect it to the Armature post, 'A'.
S-l-o-w-l-y turning the pulley clockwise (facing the pulley), the armature should read:
[For the 6-volt generator] 1.3 - 5-ohms*
[For the 12-volt generator] 0.7 - 2-ohms*
These values may vary due to the condition of the brushes and the condition of each commutator segment.
To prove if an Armature is grounded or shorted:
Set the meter to VOLTS with the prods on Ground and Armature posts, spin the pulley by hand. If there is a dead short, no voltage will be produced (no current, either), and the meter will display zero volts. The fastest I can hand-spin will only produce about 0.2-volts in either the six or twelve volt generators.
If your generator passes these tests, it should produce about 8.25-volts for the six volt gen, and 14 - 15-volts, for the 12-volt generator (running in your engine). Both of these generators produce about 40-amps. I use #8 AWG stranded copper wire for the armature harness. The field only draws one or two amps, so small wire (#16 AWG) will work just fine.
Grounding is VERY important. I use the same size Ground wire as the Armature, #8. Many times, your generator has to supply the load AND charge the battery. Cold starts with headlights and heater blower blazing, demands maximum output from a generator. - Dave
EDIT: My generator shop warns me that too much paint will insulate your generator or starter motor from ground. 12 volts is not a lot of push and 6 volts is even more critical. So, be sure your back plate/brush holder has lockwashers that dig into the metal, and give your ground a clear path back to the battery. The Ground wire is equally important as the +12.
|All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:18 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Any submissions to this site and any post on this site becomes property of Squarebirds.org . The webmasters reserve the right to edit and modify any submissions to this site. All material on this is site is copyrighted by the Squarebirds.org. Reproduction by any means other than for personal use is strictly prohibited. Permission to use material on this site can be obtained by contacting the webmasters. Copyright 2002-2016 by Squarebirds.org.