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simplyconnected 10-21-2009 01:59 AM


Originally Posted by simplyconnected (Post 37445)
It sure looks like it, Vern. To make sure, you are talking about the FIELD wire getting too hot, not the armature wire, right?

A shorted field winding will play hell with a regulator. Use a resistance check for your Field windings. Under full load, the FIELD should pull about an amp or two...

Just a thought; make sure you didn't ground your field wires inside the case, when you put it together. It's easy to pinch a wire, there isn't a lot of room...


Originally Posted by vernz (Post 38193)
I followed the guidance in this string of posts and got the generator in my 60 working today! It turned out to be worn insulation on the internal field wire just after the terminal. It was grounded out on the long generator bolt. I also had a bad voltage regulator. It is so nice to see the generator light off when she's running. Now to get all the lights working. Thanks for all the information on this post.

I'm glad to assist, but Marco gets the big applause for showing all those good pictures. Sure is nice to know what to expect before you jump in.

Vern, I'm sorry your regulator went out. I'm SURE your grounded Field wire was the cause. The field wire could use a 5-amp fuse mounted at the regulator. If the wire shorts, the fuse will protect and save your regulator (and about $50). Ever estimate how much you saved by finding the problem for yourself? A garage might tell you anything. Now, you know the real problem (in addition to the broken brush spring). - Dave

vernz 10-21-2009 05:50 PM


The interesting thing about the voltage regulator is that my car came with a spare. I put the spare on the car while I was trying to figure out what was wrong. After I fixed the generator I held the field wire against battery and measured armature output. Sure enough it went to full output which showed the regulator was bad. (you nay remember that when I did that before fixing the generator the field wire got instantly too hot to hold). I put the original regulator back in and everything works now. I would have thought that the original regulator would have been fried after being hooked up to the grounded field wire for who know how many years.


Dutchbird 10-27-2009 08:13 PM

2 Attachment(s)
A small update from Europe:
I take the time on my first 'generator-experience' (in the little sparetime I have right now) and have cleaned it the best way I could so far. Only some little paintjobs in the near future to complete it.
Almost ready to re-assemble and go on from there.......

simplyconnected 10-30-2009 03:12 AM

Ford Generator Resistance checks for 6-volt and 12-volt
Set multi-meter for the lowest OHM scale (200-ohms)

The only difference between the six and twelve volt generators is the Field Coils

Field Coils
Keep one prod tightly connected to the generator case post, 'G'.
Tightly connect the other prod to the Field post, 'F'.
6-volt generator - The meter should read, 2.3 - 2.7-ohms.
12-volt generator - The meter should read, 7.2 - 7.6-ohms.

Disconnect the 'F' prod from the previous test, and connect it to the Armature post, 'A'.
S-l-o-w-l-y turning the pulley clockwise (facing the pulley), the armature should read:
[For the 6-volt generator] 1.3 - 5-ohms*
[For the 12-volt generator] 0.7 - 2-ohms*
These values may vary due to the condition of the brushes and the condition of each commutator segment.

To prove if an Armature is grounded or shorted:
Set the meter to VOLTS with the prods on Ground and Armature posts, spin the pulley by hand. If there is a dead short, no voltage will be produced (no current, either), and the meter will display zero volts. The fastest I can hand-spin will only produce about 0.2-volts in either the six or twelve volt generators.

If your generator passes these tests, it should produce about 8.25-volts for the six volt gen, and 14 - 15-volts, for the 12-volt generator (running in your engine). Both of these generators produce about 40-amps. I use #8 AWG stranded copper wire for the armature harness. The field only draws one or two amps, so small wire (#16 AWG) will work just fine.

Grounding is VERY important. I use the same size Ground wire as the Armature, #8. Many times, your generator has to supply the load AND charge the battery. Cold starts with headlights and heater blower blazing, demands maximum output from a generator. - Dave

EDIT: My generator shop warns me that too much paint will insulate your generator or starter motor from ground. 12 volts is not a lot of push and 6 volts is even more critical. So, be sure your back plate/brush holder has lockwashers that dig into the metal, and give your ground a clear path back to the battery. The Ground wire is equally important as the +12.

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