1954 Lincoln; question regarding 12volt conversion
I know this is in the wrong category, but the 58-60 section gets the most attention here....
A friend of mine is converting a '54 Lincoln from 6-volt to 12-volt, but is wondering how to deal with the 6-volt power window motors that are on the car. He says there is a 30amp circuit breaker before each motor. He doesn't want to send 12 volts to these motors for fear of damaging them I guess.
Asking the question here on this site was my first thought. The depth of knowledge here is outstanding.
6V motors running on 12V will last quite a long time - BUT its not recommended and they will run very fast. I have done it and didn't like it, so I changed to the proper motor.
I would suggest:
1) a method to reduce the voltage to 6V for each motor
2) using an aftermarket set up like street rodders use
3) compare the existing physical size/mounting of the 6V motors and gearboxes to other 56 Ford products. They might be the same as used in Mercury or Thunderbird which are readily available.
Why don't you get the 6V system working properly and avoid all the conversion mess??
Just did a 1949 IHC KB-3 truck and kept the positive 6V ground system. What you should do is focus on good grounds and adequate wire size.
I also update to breaker-less ignition and add an alternator as these are both available in 6V positive ground versions now. With these two updates you won't have any problems and the 6V battery will stay charged compared to the old obsolete generators.
A little off subject but really consider installing a 6V electric fuel pump too. Make's a WORLD of difference and the truck starts at the first touch of the "Stomp Pedal"!
Guess he already has a low amperage converter for the gauges?
Will need to replace the coil and condenser in the ignition system.
All the lights. (is there a headlight relay and a horn relay?)
Hydraulic/electric brake light switch if they use one like the Tbird probably would be ok.
Fuel sending unit, starter, wipers electric or vac like the Tbird?
Bet someone makes one but I didn't see it in a quick search - think it would be possible to find a high current 12v to 6v regulator. Wonder how much input voltage his old mechanical regulator can handle? Just send the 12v to that and use the 6v output on the windows?? - 12v might overload the old 6 v reg though. I know the old Lucas 12v adjustable mechanical regulators on the MG's will go down to about 8 volts output with 12 volts in. Believe they are 30A so that should work for the window motors. Have to make sure it's a fully adjustable unit - they are making solid state replacement units now.
re:Lucas - Maybe I'm related to Lucas aka "the prince of darkness" but in 30 something years of owning British cars the only electrical failures I had were on my '79 MGB. The plastic headlight switch fell apart in my hand one night on the way home from work (just took the connectors off the switch and crammed them together) and a bad ignition relay that I did have to replace.
Just some ideas.....
Modern devices that were never around back in the day are now possible with 12-v., like an electric fan, remote start, standard Pertronix, etc.
I appreciate the question but I need more info...
Is he considering using a self-regulated alternator? <--important to know and I hope this is the case. Will he have an external voltage regulator?
Does he have and want to use his original radio? Back in those days all radios used an internal vibrator. The vibrator quickly switched power on and off so it could run a transformer at high voltage for the tubes. It can be converted to 12-v. neg. gnd., but the vibrator will need to be changed to 12-v. neg. gnd.
Another consideration is to cut the rear off of his radio and convert it to AM/FM/MP3. Gary Tayman down in Sarasota, Florida does a nice job.
The gauges need a simple CVR, then they're good to go including the sending units.
These things need to be changed to 12-volt:
6-volt starter motors do well on 12 volts and no, they won't run backwards by reversing polarity. In fact, ALL DC motors with separate field winding will run in the correct direction including the heater and door motors. Speed is quite another story. Gauges will not run backwards, either (assuming there is no AMP gauge).
You can add resistor banks. Yes, banks. Because each motor will need its own resistor. Everyone knows Ohm's Law but it is based on constant voltage, current and resistance. In other words, if I size a current resistor for two window motors they must be run at the same time (together). A resistor sized for one motor will not pass enough amps to run two window motors. So if we use resistors, each motor must have its own. It might be easier to buy 12-volt motors. I have a diagram to convert your window switch system to run a modern, standard, 2-wire motor.
Two 6-volt horns can be connected in series but they will sound like a sick cow. Believe me, it doesn't work. Buy 12-volt horns. Horns have internal contacts that make/break matching a frequency of pitch. That means both horn contacts in series must be closed at the same time, which never happens because they are set to different frequencies (one high, one low).
BTW, what exactly ARE all the accessories? - Dave
All good information guys.
My friend may be joining the site soon. He also has a square' that he is working on.
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