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-   1961 To 1963 Bulletbirds, Rocketbirds - General Technical Discussion (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=24)
-   -   Headers (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=21213)

cervantes1m 01-09-2017 04:21 PM

Headers
 
Hello fellow Bird's and Happy new Year to everyone :) :D !!

I'm going to start doing some up dates on my 62 T Bird to get it ready for summer to be my daily driver with a little kick :D

Some of the item that i will be improving/up dating...

high flow water pump,high flow oil pump,fuel pump,alternator and intake manifold. The only up grade my Bird has is a Summit 600 CFM carburetor.

I'm trying to also up date the headers any recommendations on what some of our members have used would be much appreciated.

ozbird 02-01-2017 06:42 AM

Headers
 
Hi there,

I have a set of Coated Sanderson headers coming over to Australia - will report back once installed.

cheers

Graeme

Yadkin 02-01-2017 09:11 AM

I installed Sanderson's two years ago. Very tight fit between the chassis. They recommend installing without a gasket- just a skim coat or Permatex RTV Copper, so you need a clean, flat surface on your heads. Then of course you will need custom exhaust work.

ozbird 02-05-2017 07:06 AM

Got my headers
 
Hi All,

Just a few updates for you.

Got the engine mocked up in the engine bay - so far so good, went in with no major issues. Sanderson have come up with the goods here, I don't need to do any mods to the headers at all as you would hope.

There were a couple of things that I have to sort out (now done):

1 - passenger side the pipe is very close to the body so I have filed down the sharp edge and see how it goes. The car had a big hit many years ago and I suspect the body is not 100% straight. Also not having transmission installed it may not be an issue, dropping the back of engine down a little could clear it.

2 - I have a hydroboost braking system and the two additional hoses (high pressure and drain hose) which originally were setup low next to the original return hose, pressed up against the lower pipe. No big deal, I have moved those hoses up and run them parallel to the valve covers.

Check the images below which have comments added - ****, you can see how rough the paint is now. I spent months on this and now it is peeling off and looks like crap, oh well, the engine is more important!

While I have this in mind, check the link. I wonder if this stuff would be good to use in conjunction with the silicone? Thinking outside the box, 2mm cord stuck down with silicone and gaps filled with silicone would mean consistency at least!

http://www.silicone-tubing.com.au/viton-cord.htm

Graeme

There she goes....


Just a small concern - touching a little but move engine over and no worries



Driver Side - that orange stuff is heat wrap, great stuff but it has to go.


This is under the car, drivers side - note the orange wrap pressing against the outlet of header. The other hose (original) should be ok.


Engine out and you can see the hydroboost lines now, run to the left and over the coil in this image. I have enough slack to make small changes if needed.

scumdog 02-05-2017 02:50 PM

Lookin' good!
I'm not sure what you mean by your last comments re the silicone, could you explain it clearer for this old bugger??

ozbird 02-05-2017 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scumdog (Post 106406)
Lookin' good!
I'm not sure what you mean by your last comments re the silicone, could you explain it clearer for this old bugger??

Hi ScumDog,

Here is what I wrote :::
While I have this in mind, check the link. I wonder if this stuff would be good to use in conjunction with the silicone? Thinking outside the box, 2mm cord stuck down with silicone and gaps filled with silicone would mean consistency at least!

http://www.silicone-tubing.com.au/viton-cord.htm

My idea is that the viton cord can withstand the same or more heat as the silicone alone. You could wind a cord around each port on the header and glue it down with the silicone. After it sets a bit, bolt everything up and compress the cord down, voila, we have a seal.

I have asked the support team at Sanderson if this would work and will post back the results.

thanks.
Graeme

simplyconnected 02-05-2017 08:41 PM

Graeme, I'm going to stick my neck out. There is nothing on the market that won't break down between the head and header ports. Silicone is wonderful stuff, capable of withstanding extreme temperatures but silicone is also a gummy, flimsy material. That's why the company embeds wire in it, hoping to add rigidity.

The best seal is accomplished with flat surfaces bolted tightly. Each exhaust stroke produces pressures akin to a shot gun blast. Asbestos and silicone may work for a short duration but they eventually blow out.

I suggest milling or grinding the header's mating surface flat. I assume the head is trued as well. We normally don't need to machine sheet metal but for a couple extra bucks, I sure would because sheet steel surfaces are not without waves, orange peel, etc. Finished metal-to-metal seals should hold up for ever but if they start out with a slight taper or leak, the problem never gets better, it always gets worse. - Dave

scumdog 02-05-2017 09:02 PM

I use CRC Maniseal, it expands as it cures and the only failure I had was when there was movement between an exhaust pipe and the manifold ( not on a Thunderbird!). A bracket soon fixed that

cervantes1m 02-17-2017 01:43 PM

sweet !! yes please keep me posted

cervantes1m 02-17-2017 01:50 PM

great pics of your set up ...thank you for posting them ...I now know in what direction to go on ... very jealous ..lol :D


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