Squarebirds, Rocketbirds, and Fifties/Sixties Ford Discussion Forum

Squarebirds, Rocketbirds, and Fifties/Sixties Ford Discussion Forum (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/index.php)
-   1964 To 1966 Flairbirds - General Technical Discussion (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=26)
-   -   My '66 Hardtop Town Build (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=21048)

Cwcb08 10-29-2016 10:32 PM

My '66 Hardtop Town Build
 
starting this thread to document my build/repair progress:

the day we brought it home




our goal is to have a weekend car that we could jump in any time and go for a drive, first hurdle is get it up to ontario minimum safety standards so we can get in on the road, then we will work on making her a little prettier

Cwcb08 10-29-2016 10:32 PM

started off chasing electrical issues:

fixed the 4 ways


changed the low fuel light relay so it wasn't permanently illuminated

replaced the interior lights relay

adjusted the previously replaced brake light relay so they work after fixing the 4ways

Cwcb08 10-29-2016 10:34 PM

window motors need repair or replaced




Cwcb08 10-29-2016 10:39 PM

parts!





light cover

heater core

fresh air inlet gasket

battery hold down

washer fluid pump

washer fluid res

looked and found i have a remanufactured autolite 4100 carb

scumdog 10-30-2016 02:37 AM

Keep posting!
I have been/are doing improvements on my own '66 Town Landau, i.e in the throes of putting new intake gaskets and the original 4100 on it and then a new vacuum advance can on the distributor etc etc...

Cwcb08 11-06-2016 04:40 PM

looks like the car got hit by a tornado



replacing vacuum lines as needed
will change out the cvr for a solid state one from dave and replace damage heater hoses before putting the dash back together

Cwcb08 11-18-2016 05:25 PM

Got some parts for the bird



and my pickup today


Dan Leavens 11-19-2016 10:31 AM

Cody looks like Christmas came early. Good stuff:D

Cwcb08 11-19-2016 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Leavens (Post 104916)
Cody looks like Christmas came early. Good stuff:D

My birthday is the 22nd hopefully get more parts at Christmas lol




That cowl drain was definitely due to be replaced lol, both fronts were in that condition, the rears weren't nearly that bad but needed to be replaced anyway. The rears have a one time use clamp but the new boots fit tight so I won't bother getting a hose clamp to put on them

Yadkin 11-19-2016 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cwcb08 (Post 104732)
looks like the car got hit by a tornado



replacing vacuum lines as needed
will change out the cvr for a solid state one from dave and replace damage heater hoses before putting the dash back together

What shape is the padded dash in? Mine was split so I trimmed off the warped plastic, cut out rotted foam, and replaced it with great stuff fire retardant foam. I bought a plastic cover and hated it! I ended up having a local upholsterer cover it in leatherette, French stitching at the exposed edge to make the compound curves, and it's one of my favorite parts of my resto. I took the dash out to him, and therefore the cost wasn't much more than a cheap cover.

Cwcb08 11-20-2016 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yadkin (Post 104925)
What shape is the padded dash in? Mine was split so I trimmed off the warped plastic, cut out rotted foam, and replaced it with great stuff fire retardant foam. I bought a plastic cover and hated it! I ended up having a local upholsterer cover it in leatherette, French stitching at the exposed edge to make the compound curves, and it's one of my favorite parts of my resto. I took the dash out to him, and therefore the cost wasn't much more than a cheap cover.

It has one crack in it but we can live with it compared to the door cards it's in great shape








We swapped the rear drain tubes last night, they weren't as bad as the fronts but were definitely due to be replaced as well





Tonight I replaced the defroster hoses








The new ones we got from pat Wilson's aren't identical to the oem hoses but they fit snugly without clamps so I'm happy and they were plenty long enough for the job, I probably could have trimmed them but I didn't ( I did vacuum the mess behind there tho lol )





Sometimes I like seeing old ways to do things like the backside of the main dash vents, a simple captive pin in two tracks to change the air direction


Dan Leavens 11-20-2016 11:00 AM

Cody coming along nicely, one step at a time. How are things down by Sarnia this time of the year?

Cwcb08 11-20-2016 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Leavens (Post 104946)
Cody coming along nicely, one step at a time. How are things down by Sarnia this time of the year?


slow and steady thats right. ( and when funds become available )

we had our first snow that stayed on the ground when i woke up today, its still there its about 1c currently, two days ago it was 20.3c and we broke a record lol



i was just surfing kijiji last night and called a guy about some window motors turns out i could almost throw a stone at his house from mine, we are going down at 11 to see what he has and look at his 66 convertible. apparently he has owned about 6 tbirds and parted out about 6 more. I'm thinking he will be about the same price as buying parts out of the states if the call last night was any indication ( i asked prices on motors and steering wheel and his answer was well multiply the price online by about 1.5 to cover shipping exchange ect so we will see ). he was also trying to tell me window motors have and will continue to be hard to get because they had a high failure rate so no-one is building them currently, any truth to that?

scumdog 11-20-2016 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cwcb08 (Post 104947)
slow and steady thats right. ( and when funds become available )

we had our first snow that stayed on the ground when i woke up today, its still there its about 1c currently, two days ago it was 20.3c and we broke a record lol

I'm thinking he will be about the same price as buying parts out of the states if the call last night was any indication ( i asked prices on motors and steering wheel and his answer was well multiply the price online by about 1.5 to cover shipping exchange ect so we will see ). he was also trying to tell me window motors have and will continue to be hard to get because they had a high failure rate so no-one is building them currently, any truth to that?

I can't speak for the present time but about 9 or so years back I had no difficulty finding a firm in the US that advertised rebuilding window motors, I sent mine away and it came back rebuilt, I can't remember the company or cost.
The rubber coating on it had been cut to separate the halves of the housing so I sealed the seam with hot glue to keep the moisture out. (Just thought I'd throw that in!)

Cwcb08 11-20-2016 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scumdog (Post 104949)
I can't speak for the present time but about 9 or so years back I had no difficulty finding a firm in the US that advertised rebuilding window motors, I sent mine away and it came back rebuilt, I can't remember the company or cost.
The rubber coating on it had been cut to separate the halves of the housing so I sealed the seam with hot glue to keep the moisture out. (Just thought I'd throw that in!)

He said today that two people were going to repop them one guy same old the other better, I guess the same old guy got them done and distributed first so the other guy fell off the map. And when they ran out of stock and the first guy went back to build more the Chinese factory he used was gone and had to start over, the second batch was prone to failure so they pulled them and that created a shortage everywhere.





Can anyone ID this axle is is supposed to be out of a 78 bird and be a posi but I can't decode the tag




I know it's backwards but the lady who sent me the pic thinks it says

"800A
7C8
50-9
E8-8F"


I want to put a posi in my bird, looks like I have a 3.00 28spline

simplyconnected 11-20-2016 03:20 PM

Window motors go bad from NON-use. I've never seen one with worn down brushes, even after fifty years of service. Or better said, fifty years of mostly sitting there doing nothing.

Think of it, they go up a number of turns then they go down that same number. Heater motors get a better workout and I've never seen one of those wear out either. The last heater motor I worked on was simply frozen. Then I got it going without buying any parts and now it works just fine. The last window motor I worked on was simply gummed up with greasy junk that loaded the commutator and brush holders. After a good cleaning all the parts in diesel fuel it ran great.

Any obsolete part growing older will also be more rare and more costly to replace with OEM parts. On the other hand, there are 'production' motors with two wires that can be substituted at a low cost. To retrofit one of these motors requires two additional relays, one for 'up' and the other for 'down' because Ford controlled opposite-wound field windings in OEM motors for direction. Modern motors use permanent magnets to eliminate electric fields so now we simply reverse armature current. - Dave

Cwcb08 11-20-2016 05:50 PM

Anyone have any idea what this wire is, looks like a ground maybe?
Started under the Centre console cubby and terminated in the pass footwell. I couldn't identify anywhere it might have gone or came from and it doesn't look factory..






Hooked both window motors up directly to my battery booster and they both function up and down the passenger side is much stronger ( I'll post some quick clips when they upload ) I'm sure I tried that before but I'm glad I did it again.



Next issue is the switches we smelled electrical burning or at least getting hot so I'll have to try and fix or repair that



Cwcb08 11-20-2016 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplyconnected (Post 104951)
Window motors go bad from NON-use. I've never seen one with worn down brushes, even after fifty years of service. Or better said, fifty years of mostly sitting there doing nothing.

Think of it, they go up a number of turns then they go down that same number. Heater motors get a better workout and I've never seen one of those wear out either. The last heater motor I worked on was simply frozen. Then I got it going without buying any parts and now it works just fine. The last window motor I worked on was simply gummed up with greasy junk that loaded the commutator and brush holders. After a good cleaning all the parts in diesel fuel it ran great.

Any obsolete part growing older will also be more rare and more costly to replace with OEM parts. On the other hand, there are 'production' motors with two wires that can be substituted at a low cost. To retrofit one of these motors requires two additional relays, one for 'up' and the other for 'down' because Ford controlled opposite-wound field windings in OEM motors for direction. Modern motors use permanent magnets to eliminate electric fields so now we simply reverse armature current. - Dave

Do you have an link and example of one of these motors for future reference Dave?

YellowRose 11-20-2016 06:35 PM

My '66 Hardtop Town Build
 
Cody, have you taken a look at the Technical Resource Library (TRL)? There is information in it regarding repairing these motors, though it applies to Squarebirds, as I recall. But it should be a help to you regarding the motors in your Flairbird. Go to the TRL, hit the Ctrl and the F key, type in window motors and it should take you right to that section. The TRL link is always part of my and jopizz's signature element.

Cwcb08 11-20-2016 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YellowRose (Post 104956)
Cody, have you taken a look at the Technical Resource Library (TRL)? There is information in it regarding repairing these motors, though it applies to Squarebirds, as I recall. But it should be a help to you regarding the motors in your Flairbird. Go to the TRL, hit the Ctrl and the F key, type in window motors and it should take you right to that section. The TRL link is always part of my and jopizz's signature element.

The motors work, although one is a little weak, I'm on to diagnosing the switches, the vent switches and motors work perfectly

simplyconnected 11-20-2016 10:03 PM

Console switches are famous for collecting junk inside. Our members carefully disassemble the switches, clean them and put them back. It might also be wise to swap the driver's switch with one not so frequently used. - Dave

Yadkin 11-21-2016 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cwcb08 (Post 104953)
Anyone have any idea what this wire is, looks like a ground maybe?
Started under the Centre console cubby and terminated in the pass footwell. I couldn't identify anywhere it might have gone or came from and it doesn't look factory.

I'm guessing that's a ground that someone cobbed up to serve the FM converter. The console is screwed to the chassis so it's not a good direct chassis ground. Get rid of it.

Love the horn button. ;)

Cwcb08 11-21-2016 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yadkin (Post 104980)
I'm guessing that's a ground that someone cobbed up to serve the FM converter. The console is screwed to the chassis so it's not a good direct chassis ground. Get rid of it.

Love the horn button. ;)

i was thinking thats where it might have come from but i have removed 3 wires from that area to the fuse box already. i wired the fm converter to an unused switched 2 wire lead in the console with a factory style connector. this green wire went almost to the ashtray for the back seat and has a odd curved spade connector at one end


the horn button is funny really and my wife doesn't like it ha. here in ontario i need to have a labeled button within drivers reach to get it safetied, the factory buttons are shorted at the wheel ( and started smoking the first time i tried it lol). so i found where the horn power came in and out of the wheel cut them added a relay and tapped the hot for the low current side of the relay/'horn' button. i used insulated connectors under the dash so when we get a new steering wheel and horn buttons i can switch it back to factory easily. i also had to replace one of the snail horns as it squeaks then stops making noise, i used a fiamm freeway blaster i got at princess auto cheap

Yadkin 11-21-2016 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cwcb08 (Post 104983)
i was thinking thats where it might have come from but i have removed 3 wires from that area to the fuse box already. i wired the fm converter to an unused switched 2 wire lead in the console with a factory style connector. this green wire went almost to the ashtray for the back seat and has a odd curved spade connector at one end


the horn button is funny really and my wife doesn't like it ha. here in ontario i need to have a labeled button within drivers reach to get it safetied, the factory buttons are shorted at the wheel ( and started smoking the first time i tried it lol). so i found where the horn power came in and out of the wheel cut them added a relay and tapped the hot for the low current side of the relay/'horn' button. i used insulated connectors under the dash so when we get a new steering wheel and horn buttons i can switch it back to factory easily. i also had to replace one of the snail horns as it squeaks then stops making noise, i used a fiamm freeway blaster i got at princess auto cheap

I recommend that you get an electrical diagram book for your car. Not that expensive and will save a lot of time. My car was built with few options so you may have more in the harness than I do. The only factory wires that I have through to the back seat are the courtesy lights, the trunk light, the fuel level sensor, and of course the exterior lighting.

The horn is switched on the ground side and has a factory relay mounted under the hood. Maybe some joker bypassed the relay and that would cause the horn switches or circular contact to smoke.

The two long buttons on the steering wheel each have switches wired through the center of the plastic wheel to a circular metal base plate. The plate makes contact with the turn signal harness assembly through a spring loaded copper "button". If you remove the wheel you see the plate and button and can test the switches with an ohm meter. I like to use a small amount of white grease on this circular contact area for smooth operation.

Yadkin 11-21-2016 02:25 PM

Another big hazard that you should be aware of is the dash mounted ammeter. The '64 (and I assume earlier models) came with a shunt type ammeter that took most of the alternator load though heavy gauge wire mounted directly to ther rear of the instrument. It's rated at about 40 amps. Modern alternators put out at least 100 amps, so you can see where a problem can easily occur.

I initially solved this problem in my resto-mod by installing a modern power panel under the hood then back-feeding the factory panel with a 40 amp fuse. However I then proceeded to further protect from instrument panel fires by installing relays for the headlamps and all my added on accessories, only to find that the ammeter then had not enough amps to measure. Last week I solved the problem completely by removing or abandoning the big ammeter wires and converting to a volt meter.

Later models, yours included, may have a remote shunt under the hood somewhere. Either way it's something that you need to address if you have a high output alternator.

YellowRose 11-21-2016 02:56 PM

My '66 Hardtop Town Build
 
Cody, if you have not looked at the Technical Resource Library (TRL), you should. Bring it up, and push the Ctrl button and the F (for Find) button, and type in Wiring Diagrams. It will take you right to every wiring diagram we have for these Tbirds of ours. There are 12 sets of wiring diagrams for the 1966 Tbird alone, plus a link to the webpage that covers the 1965-1968 Sequential Turn Signal system.

Cwcb08 11-21-2016 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yadkin (Post 104984)
I recommend that you get an electrical diagram book for your car. Not that expensive and will save a lot of time. My car was built with few options so you may have more in the harness than I do. The only factory wires that I have through to the back seat are the courtesy lights, the trunk light, the fuel level sensor, and of course the exterior lighting.

i have a shop manual

The horn is switched on the ground side and has a factory relay mounted under the hood. Maybe some joker bypassed the relay and that would cause the horn switches or circular contact to smoke.

The two long buttons on the steering wheel each have switches wired through the center of the plastic wheel to a circular metal base plate. The plate makes contact with the turn signal harness assembly through a spring loaded copper "button". If you remove the wheel you see the plate and button and can test the switches with an ohm meter. I like to use a small amount of white grease on this circular contact area for smooth operation.

one of the long buttons is missing a spring and that will be one of the components we replace when we do the steering wheel, part of the reason I made it easily reversible

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yadkin (Post 104985)
Another big hazard that you should be aware of is the dash mounted ammeter. The '64 (and I assume earlier models) came with a shunt type ammeter that took most of the alternator load though heavy gauge wire mounted directly to ther rear of the instrument. It's rated at about 40 amps. Modern alternators put out at least 100 amps, so you can see where a problem can easily occur.

I initially solved this problem in my resto-mod by installing a modern power panel under the hood then back-feeding the factory panel with a 40 amp fuse. However I then proceeded to further protect from instrument panel fires by installing relays for the headlamps and all my added on accessories, only to find that the ammeter then had not enough amps to measure. Last week I solved the problem completely by removing or abandoning the big ammeter wires and converting to a volt meter.

Later models, yours included, may have a remote shunt under the hood somewhere. Either way it's something that you need to address if you have a high output alternator.

I saw your thread about making your ammeter a voltmeter it looks good 👍🏻

Pretty sure we have a stock alternator but if we upgrade I'll keep it in mind thanks


Here is the horn setup






And this is where I hooked up the fm transmitter






I dissambled the window switches cleaned and lightly sanded the contacts after a quick look at the technical links and they wor again! One more issue solved

Yadkin 11-21-2016 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cwcb08 (Post 104988)
I disassembled the window switches cleaned and lightly sanded the contacts after a quick look at the technical links and they work again! One more issue solved

Buy a can of electrical contact cleaner at your local hardware or big box home improvement store. It's in the electrical department.

The chrome in your last photo is plated, cast aluminum. Yours is in good shape. It will brighten up even more by washing with diet coke (contains phosphoric acid) and a blue scotch-brite pad. Then wash and rinse. Dents/ scratches you'll have to live with. Ditto with most of the interior chrome trim, either cast/ chrome plated or anodized aluminum.

An exception is the chrome that you took off to remove the side panels of the console - these are stainless steel. A far superior material, dents can be removed easily by someone well trained. That same person can sand out scratches, "sanding up" through progressive grits, then through at least two buffing wheel grits. It's not rocket science as I've done all the stainless on my own car to mirror finishes.

Most of the interior finish panels can be refurbished by cleaning and painting. The instruments are cast aluminum, textured and painted. The remainder of the dash structure is textured or flat steel painted. The side console panels and seat panels are vinyl coated steel. I've used a light coat of engine enamel on mine but that was before I discovered vinyl paint. I used a very light coat of vinyl paint on my kick panels and seat bottoms and those turned out very nice.

Cwcb08 11-27-2016 12:30 AM

Was showing the car to a friend and he was looking underneath and saw this




Going to replace both wheel cylinders

While I'm ordering I'll get an ac compressor belt, does anyone know the specs of the belt I require? I didn't see any part numbers or specs in the shop manual

simplyconnected 11-27-2016 04:05 AM

This leaky rear brake kinda proves that the rear wheels don't do much stopping. This side is soaked in brake fluid. That means the other side would have pulled more and this side's shoes are well lubricated. Cody probably wouldn't notice it even farther down the road unless he was looking for a reason why the brake fluid level was going down.

Don't feel bad Cody, I had a Pontiac Tempest with a rear cylinder that had a hydraulic port that was never drilled. I only noticed because the shoe never wore down.

Your shoe looks like it's nearly new. Just because it's soaked doesn't mean you need to throw it out. Brake linings are made to take tremendous heat under normal stopping operation.

When you have the shoes off, put them in a vice (just to hold them) and go over the linings with a propane torch. As they heat, you will see the brake fluid oozing out. Wipe it off with a paper towel and keep going until it stops oozing. Your lining will turn gray in color and it will look dry, because it will be. Don't worry about fire because brake fluid is glycol-based, not petroleum. In fact, I keep ALL petroleum products far away from my brake system including brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is highly flammable and it swells rubber brake parts.

I normally use the rebuild kits for my cylinders. They are inexpensive and I have control over the bore condition. Older cylinders usually get a rubber ring embedded in the walls from the cups inside because that's the only part that touches the casting. I use old brake cleaner and (wet-or-dry) sand paper to smooth the castings inside. A brake hone is not necessary. NEVER use petroleum products or water near DOT-3.

If you have an abundance of money or no time, you can always buy everything new but the result is about the same. - Dave

Cwcb08 11-27-2016 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplyconnected (Post 105103)
This leaky rear brake kinda proves that the rear wheels don't do much stopping. This side is soaked in brake fluid. That means the other side would have pulled more and this side's shoes are well lubricated. Cody probably wouldn't notice it even farther down the road unless he was looking for a reason why the brake fluid level was going down.

Don't feel bad Cody, I had a Pontiac Tempest with a rear cylinder that had a hydraulic port that was never drilled. I only noticed because the shoe never wore down.

Your shoe looks like it's nearly new. Just because it's soaked doesn't mean you need to throw it out. Brake linings are made to take tremendous heat under normal stopping operation.

When you have the shoes off, put them in a vice (just to hold them) and go over the linings with a propane torch. As they heat, you will see the brake fluid oozing out. Wipe it off with a paper towel and keep going until it stops oozing. Your lining will turn gray in color and it will look dry, because it will be. Don't worry about fire because brake fluid is glycol-based, not petroleum. In fact, I keep ALL petroleum products far away from my brake system including brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is highly flammable and it swells rubber brake parts.

I normally use the rebuild kits for my cylinders. They are inexpensive and I have control over the bore condition. Older cylinders usually get a rubber ring embedded in the walls from the cups inside because that's the only part that touches the casting. I use old brake cleaner and (wet-or-dry) sand paper to smooth the castings inside. A brake hone is not necessary. NEVER use petroleum products or water near DOT-3.

If you have an abundance of money or no time, you can always buy everything new but the result is about the same. - Dave


when we came in from the garage my plan was just going to to just rebuild them. But for the price of a new fully assembled one on rockauto its not much cheaper buying kits and then the time doing them myself! ( not to mention the boss doesnt like the idea of me playing with the brakes, she didn't seem to mind me overhauling the brake systems on my racing motorcycles, maybe its just because I'm the only one on it when I'm doing 150mph at the track lol. last time i let a professional change my brake lines at the track the first lap i almost got killed. he over filled the reservoir and with the brake drag it heated the fluid and locked my front wheel up at the end of the straightaway, scary hearing all the bikes coming behind you and knowing they are doing 150mph, but they dont realize your stopped and cant move to get to safety, should have seen the guys leg who hit the exhaust on my bike when he went by few more inches to the left we both would have been in the hospital.)


Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Cylinder

RAYBESTOS WC370192 {#2017509, EW9150, WC17509} Professional Grade Info
Rear Left
Part is designed for US Market vehicles

1-CAD$6.27

RAYBESTOS WC370193 {#2017510, WC17510} Professional Grade Info
Rear Right
Part is designed for US Market vehicles

1-CAD$6.27


Subtotal CAD$12.54
Discount -CAD$0.62
Shipping from United States (You should receive by Thursday, December 8)

Total CAD$24.07


vs.


Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Cylinder Repair Kit

RAYBESTOS WK13 {#3513} Professional Grade Info
Rear
Part is designed for US Market vehicles

2-CAD$3.24
Subtotal CAD$6.48
Shipping from United States (You should receive by Thursday, December 8)

Total CAD$17.28

Cwcb08 11-27-2016 11:20 AM

So I measured for the ac belt, I get 56" - 58"1/2 depending where the tensioner is, back to searching for a belt that will fit

jopizz 11-27-2016 12:14 PM

The Ford parts book shows 60" without the smog pump. Rock Auto shows a number of belts around the same length so that sounds correct as long as you have the stock compressor and idler pulley.

John

Cwcb08 11-27-2016 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jopizz (Post 105112)
The Ford parts book shows 60" without the smog pump. Rock Auto shows a number of belts around the same length so that sounds correct as long as you have the stock compressor and idler pulley.

John

great thanks for the confirmation John

I dont think i have the smog pump,

i have 4 pulleys total
one at the motor
one at the compressor
one idler
one tensioner

ordered one of these: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....1332997&jsn=42

Cwcb08 11-29-2016 03:03 PM

i received my new cvr from dave today, and installed it as soon as my daughter went for her nap, still no fuel or temp guage readings :confused: ( even after grounding the temp sender lead to the battery, must be wiring :( )




Dash all buttoned back up


simplyconnected 11-29-2016 10:21 PM

Cody, you probably have a blown fuse or the key isn't on. Check for 12-volts on the 'IGN' side of the CVR.

When you find voltage, then check the output side.

I test every CVR that I build and yes, I do have pictures of yours. I mount two Fluke meters, one reads the input voltage and the other reads output voltage. I do this with a battery charger running to get 'charging voltage' then I shut the charger off to read 'at rest' voltage. Your CVR outputs a steady, regulated six volts under all conditions, even with a load. (Now I gotta find your pictures because you will readily recognize the white top on your CVR.) - Dave

Cwcb08 11-30-2016 12:27 AM

Ill check my fuses in the morning. If one was blown would the oil pressure still work?

Cwcb08 11-30-2016 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplyconnected (Post 105189)

I test every CVR that I build and yes, I do have pictures of yours. I mount two Fluke meters, one reads the input voltage and the other reads output voltage. I do this with a battery charger running to get 'charging voltage' then I shut the charger off to read 'at rest' voltage. Your CVR outputs a steady, regulated six volts under all conditions, even with a load. (Now I gotta find your pictures because you will readily recognize the white top on your CVR.) - Dave

Dave i have no doubt that you test your work, you seem methodical like that, curious if you tested it BEFORE you took it apart to build my new one? ( I'm just curious of what condition it was in before )

simplyconnected 11-30-2016 03:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cwcb08 (Post 105196)
...curious if you tested it BEFORE you took it apart...

Why would I do that? No, it's a mechanical contact that will never be used again so I gutted it immediately. Besides, it was an aftermarket CVR.

The wiring diagram shows a 'fuse assembly' in your engine bay, not far from the starter relay. The wire number is 37 and the color is Black-Yellow. This wire should feed your fuse box, so there may be more than one fuse in the circuit. I don't know if a 'fuse assembly' is really a fusible link so get your meter going. - Dave

Cwcb08 11-30-2016 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplyconnected (Post 105197)
Why would I do that? No, it's a mechanical contact that will never be used again so I gutted it immediately. Besides, it was an aftermarket CVR.
fun ? lol. i had no idea it was aftermarket i guess someone already had issues with it, when i pulled the gauges it was just floating around back there before i removed it
The wiring diagram shows a 'fuse assembly' in your engine bay, not far from the starter relay. The wire number is 37 and the color is Black-Yellow. This wire should feed your fuse box, so there may be more than one fuse in the circuit. I don't know if a 'fuse assembly' is really a fusible link so get your meter going. - Dave

i have the diagrams out in front of me, if i follow #30 from the CVR up to the main disconnect at the top middle of the page i dont see #30 coming out the other side of the disconnect, what # wire do you think "30" is on the left side of the disconnect.

on the right:
30 - cvr
37 - light switch
655 - ammeter
297 - ignition
654 - ammeter

on the left:
37 - fuse assy
655 - ammeter
297 - ignition
654 - ammeter


I'm leaning towards #37 but all the lights work so that should mean the fusable link it good, right? ill head out to the garage in a bit and poke around a little


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:25 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Any submissions to this site and any post on this site becomes property of Squarebirds.org . The webmasters reserve the right to edit and modify any submissions to this site. All material on this is site is copyrighted by the Squarebirds.org. Reproduction by any means other than for personal use is strictly prohibited. Permission to use material on this site can be obtained by contacting the webmasters. Copyright 2002-2016 by Squarebirds.org.