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-   1958 To 1960 Squarebirds - General Technical Discussion (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=14)
-   -   How to remove an A/C air hose (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=12817)

sunnybob 04-10-2012 12:17 PM

How to remove an A/C air hose
 
Hi Folks, I would like to know the best way to remove the air conditioning hose highlighted in red, please. Should I have to remove the radiator to free it? Or could I remove the front grill? Another question ... There is any way to know if a not mounted A/C compressor is in working condition? Must be free to rotate by hand? Thank you.


tbird430 04-10-2012 02:20 PM

You will have to drain & remove the radiator OR remove the entire front bumper assmbly. :o

DKheld 04-10-2012 02:39 PM

I agree with Jon on this one.

The book says you can remove the top radiator support, fan, top radiator hose and loosen the two outer lower radiator bolts then lean the radiator back and pull the condenser / drier out as a unit. May be a possibility but unless your arms are about 6 ft long I doubt you would be able to reach the hose connector to remove it with the radiator still in place and leaned back. The connector on the drier will not be that strong so you will need a wrench on the drier to keep from bending it.

One word of caution - when I removed my radiator the 3 bolts on the bottom are inserted into 3 captive nut slots on the cross brace. Those captive nut assemblies were very brittle and fell apart. I had to make some bolts with a tab to put back in the slot to re-attach my radiator. Was not able to locate the captive nut assemblies as a replacement.

As unlikely as it may seem - removing the front bumper / grille assembly seems like a good option if you just need to replace that hose. (pretty sure all the grille is removed from the back so the whole bumper will need to come off). Don't forget to unhook the parking light wiring if you go that route.

The compressor would need to be free (able to rotate the center section that is connected to the internal compressor parts) but still that would not tell you if the seals, clutch and rings are good. The seals are for R - 12 and unless you are using that same freon again they will probably need to be replaced anyway. Fairly easy for us here in the US to just buy a rebuilt compressor ready for R -134.

Eric
registry 5347

sunnybob 04-10-2012 03:53 PM

Thank you for your answers... It seems I should have lots of work to change that hose :(

About the compressor I put it on the bench and I engaged the clutch with 12 volts but I was not able to rotate it by hand, it seems stuck...so I suppose it is gone. I have a rebuilt one but it has not the clutch..could I use the old one? And about the freon.. R12 it's hard to find also here in Italy but what about the other hoses and other parts like evaporator? If I go 134 should I replace them too?

DKheld 04-10-2012 08:12 PM

Lots of work - unfortunately yes..

It does sound as if your old compressor is stuck and probably bad.

If they are the same compressor the clutch should fit the new one however there is a special tool to remove the clutch. I was lucky and able to get my old one off by using a little heat and penetrating oil. Maybe a shop there would have the tool and take the old clutch off for you?

When using R-134 all the hoses and drier are supposed to be changed and the thermostat re-calibrated. The PAG oil that is compatible with R-134 apparently is corrosive to the old style hoses and seals and eats them away causing leaks. The new hose is called "barrier" hose and has a lining to prevent that.

The oil for the R-12 in the system now won't be compatible with R-134 freon and gets carried out of the compressor by the freon causing the compressor to lock up so the oil in the system needs to be changed if you are using R-134.

I think the only seals are in the compressor and sight glass on these cars. My other fittings were flare type with no seal.

That's the worst case - I have heard of many people who simply have their system flushed to clear out the old oil, replaced their compressor with an R-134 compatible one, add the R-134 freon and PAG oil and it works fine.

I ordered new hoses for my 1960 model from these folks.
http://www.classicautoair.com/

I haven't finished mine yet - still a work in progress. I replaced the drier, condenser, hoses, and bought a new R-134 compressor. Didn't do anything with the thermostat or evaporator other than added an insulating material to the inside of the evaporator box when I had it apart cleaning everything.

Hope that helps,
Eric

Anders 04-11-2012 12:21 PM

The quickest and easiest way is to start with taking the hood off. Keep the grille and bumper on.,
Then, in the bottom, there are two screws that holds the radiator to the cross beam, and these have to be loosen up a bit as the AC radiator is kind of squeezed in between the radiator and the cross beam. Then loosen the screvs on the upper side, the hose on the compressor. After that, you should be able to pull upp the AC radiator. Be VERY CAREFUL when you loosen anything from the radiator, as it is in copper and soft. You need to have two tools. One to hold things as they are, and one to loosen the bolt you want. They might need to be heaten up a bit, but again, be careful so you donīt melt the soldering..:o


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