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Squarebirds, Rocketbirds, and Fifties/Sixties Ford Discussion Forum (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/index.php)
-   1958 To 1960 Squarebirds - General Technical Discussion (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=14)
-   -   Chrome Hash Marks Placement (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=11660)

YellowRose 08-12-2011 12:01 AM

Chrome Hash Marks Placement
Mary ~ mvd011244 has been a member for about four years and owns a 1960 Convertible Tbird. She emailed me to say that she needs some help. Hopefully, those who have been down this road before will be able to tell her where to place those hash marks. Here is what she said.

"I want to put my rear quarter ornaments (hash marks) on my car, the previous owner filled all of the holes, and painted it. I have no idea where to correctly place them now. I do not know why he did that but he did. I also had to hunt the ornaments down. Thanks for any help you can give."

kuusamon 08-12-2011 06:58 AM

one ebay auction Finished last night with a set of hashmarks but sometimes they are on ebay for a reasonable price.
the link to the finished auction is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1960-...item27bd2d13ee

I know it doesn't do any good now but keep this seller in mind, he has a variety of Tbird parts for sale frequently for very reasonable prices. I bought from him several times and got more than I bargained for.

Anyway I understood that Mary already has the hash marks anyway.
If you remove the side panel inside the trunk than you can see the inside of the fender panel. Maybe you can still see the original holes. When people close of the holes to make them invisible from the outside they usually do not do the same on the inside and you might still be able to see where the holes where.
Otherwise I have to measure the location where my hash marks are put I need a reference point from where to where I have to measure. From the bumper to the hashmarks or from the top of the wing and from the rear? let me know.
But you should be able to see something from the inside.

jopizz 08-12-2011 03:49 PM

The hash marks have three different part numbers because of the different curve from front to back. I believe the holes are also spaced farther apart on the last three or four. Hopefully Mary has a complete set.

del 08-12-2011 05:42 PM

some measurements
1 Attachment(s)
Here is a picture with some measurements

YellowRose 08-12-2011 09:55 PM

Chrome Hash Marks Placement
Hi Don! Thank you for posting that picture! I am going to "borrow" it and put it in the Technical Resource Library (TRL) so that if the question comes up again, they will find the answer there. Thank you for taking the time to research it and measure it all out for Mary. I will send her an email and tell her to check it out. With what you gave her, she certainly should be able to get those hash marks back on the car.

1960_430_AU 08-12-2011 11:20 PM

2 Attachment(s)
On the hash marks at what point did they change from screws to the nut type?
My Golde has the screw type it's an early 60 and has the smooth roof trim. Did these two pieces go together?

YellowRose 08-13-2011 12:12 AM

Chrome Hash Marks Placement
2 Attachment(s)
Richard asked when the change from screw on type rear chrome hash marks and the smooth chrome C-Pillar molding was made. According the the VTCI Official Factory Specifications (OFS) (don't have one? Get one!) the factory made the switch from screw on type rear chrome hash marks to speed nut fastened hash marks in mid-December 1959, early in the production run. The same thing applies to the smooth chrome C-Pillar molding to the ribbed version.

I also noticed that they changed from a single screw on the headlight door at the top with a V clip at the bottom to a two screw arrangement, top and bottom later in the production run. The OFS did not say when they made the switch, except to say that early 1960 production cars had the one screw/V clip arrangement.

Here are a couple of pix from the OFS.

60 T-Bird 08-13-2011 01:57 AM

I have a complete set for a 60. You might get lucky and take out the interior side panels in the trunk. If they just bondo'd over the hole, you could back drill them...

FINSRIN 08-17-2011 02:07 AM

1960 430 AU photos
From side view, see that you have chrome piece around tail lights going up rear of fin. Could you please post photos showing more of chrome around tail lights. My 60 is similar color and like to see more of how chrome would look.

If did it, would not chrome original pieces. Get slavaged parts for that.


Richard D. Hord 08-17-2011 05:23 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Hey Bill,
Here is a rear picture of Richard's Thunderbird! Richard, I hope you do not mind me borrowing your pic;)
Richard D. Hord

1960_430_AU 08-17-2011 09:25 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Now that saved me posting a pic thanks Richard

Bill here's a couple more

FINSRIN 08-18-2011 03:21 AM

Thanks for pictures. Do like the look of it. Something to ponder for the 60.

Off original topic... am wondering how tail light pannel and rear of Tbird would look if after chroming; the raised bars of squares were painted black and insides remained chrome. Opposite of normal. Have extras to chrome over Winter. Could paint them that way. Hmmm...

Thoughts - Comments ?

YellowRose 08-19-2011 09:50 PM

Chrome Hash Marks Placement
Mary ~ mvd011244 sent an email to me. Here is what she had to say.

"Thank you so much for putting my dilemma out there and a great guy answered it great. There was another post about some of the hash marks being a different size, and holes different, I have the stud type with snap nuts, not the screw type. Does that hold true?

I haven't got them mounted yet, but they will be this week coming up. We just got the top working, now for weatherstripping, that's the big one. We replaced both exhaust manifolds and so far, so good.
Thanks again.
PS Lots of stares and thumbs up signs when we take it out. Nothing like a squarebird, yeah!!!!!!!"

Mary, hopefully the guys who own '60 Tbirds can answer your question. I do not know if the screw on type are different in size or the holes are different. I would open the trunk, take off the driver and passenger side panel covers and see if you can tell where the holes were. If you can, put your chrome pieces up against the holes and see if the holes in the chrome pieces match up with the holes in the side panels. If they do, I would say you have the right type chrome pieces. But then comes the tricky part. Drilling the holes through the paint job without messing it up. I think someone mentioned using tape over the paint to help prevent that, but I will like to see some of our really experiences people respond to this.

jopizz 08-19-2011 10:40 PM

The stud type hash marks have three different part numbers; C0SB-28984, C0SB-28985 and C0SB-28986. It's been awhile since I replaced them, but I believe the first five closest to the front of the car are the 28984 part number; the next two are the 28985 and the last two are the 28986. If you compare them you will see the difference in curve and stud separation. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm incorrect. I'm going by the picture in the parts manual.

tbirds8 08-20-2011 12:44 PM

Thats right there are 3 diff ones. The fender gets rounder near the back. I read somewere that the ones with screws were mounted closer together or more towards the back. Have to see if I can find that.

GTE427 08-20-2011 09:56 PM

Locations for the screw vs stud, early vs later has already been discussed in the past. No need to look any further than this thread, compare the locations on the black bird in post #4 with the gold bird in post #6. They are different, as are other TBirds from the two periods in 1960.

JohnG 08-21-2011 03:47 PM

I had the same sort of problems with my '58 - the holes were just filled in with Bondo so I drilled them out (not as hard as I could do it from the inside).

On fastening new ones, I find the whole speednut set up to be a problem in the waiting. The stud can break off or the speednut can loosen.

A totally foolproof approach is to put some RTV on the outside around the hole, then a blob on the inside around the stud. Some masking tape to hold it in place for a few hours and you have a very sturdy fastener that does not change with vibration and can be removed if need be. The RTV also seals the hole so no moisture can get in and start a hidden rust problem.

On the subject, if you have good hash marks with broken studs, you can drill and tap them for 6-32 threaded rod (or put a bolt in and cut the head off) - they are quite salvageable. You need a drill press to set the depth so you don't drill through to the outside!


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