Squarebirds, Rocketbirds, and Fifties/Sixties Ford Discussion Forum

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-   1958 To 1960 Squarebirds - General Technical Discussion (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=14)
-   -   Chrome Hash Marks Placement (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=11660)

1960_430_AU 08-17-2011 09:25 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Now that saved me posting a pic thanks Richard

Bill here's a couple more

FINSRIN 08-18-2011 03:21 AM

Thanks for pictures. Do like the look of it. Something to ponder for the 60.

Off original topic... am wondering how tail light pannel and rear of Tbird would look if after chroming; the raised bars of squares were painted black and insides remained chrome. Opposite of normal. Have extras to chrome over Winter. Could paint them that way. Hmmm...

Thoughts - Comments ?
Bill

YellowRose 08-19-2011 09:50 PM

Chrome Hash Marks Placement
 
Mary ~ mvd011244 sent an email to me. Here is what she had to say.

"Thank you so much for putting my dilemma out there and a great guy answered it great. There was another post about some of the hash marks being a different size, and holes different, I have the stud type with snap nuts, not the screw type. Does that hold true?

I haven't got them mounted yet, but they will be this week coming up. We just got the top working, now for weatherstripping, that's the big one. We replaced both exhaust manifolds and so far, so good.
Thanks again.
Mary
PS Lots of stares and thumbs up signs when we take it out. Nothing like a squarebird, yeah!!!!!!!"

Mary, hopefully the guys who own '60 Tbirds can answer your question. I do not know if the screw on type are different in size or the holes are different. I would open the trunk, take off the driver and passenger side panel covers and see if you can tell where the holes were. If you can, put your chrome pieces up against the holes and see if the holes in the chrome pieces match up with the holes in the side panels. If they do, I would say you have the right type chrome pieces. But then comes the tricky part. Drilling the holes through the paint job without messing it up. I think someone mentioned using tape over the paint to help prevent that, but I will like to see some of our really experiences people respond to this.

jopizz 08-19-2011 10:40 PM

The stud type hash marks have three different part numbers; C0SB-28984, C0SB-28985 and C0SB-28986. It's been awhile since I replaced them, but I believe the first five closest to the front of the car are the 28984 part number; the next two are the 28985 and the last two are the 28986. If you compare them you will see the difference in curve and stud separation. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm incorrect. I'm going by the picture in the parts manual.

tbirds8 08-20-2011 12:44 PM

Thats right there are 3 diff ones. The fender gets rounder near the back. I read somewere that the ones with screws were mounted closer together or more towards the back. Have to see if I can find that.

GTE427 08-20-2011 09:56 PM

Locations for the screw vs stud, early vs later has already been discussed in the past. No need to look any further than this thread, compare the locations on the black bird in post #4 with the gold bird in post #6. They are different, as are other TBirds from the two periods in 1960.

JohnG 08-21-2011 03:47 PM

I had the same sort of problems with my '58 - the holes were just filled in with Bondo so I drilled them out (not as hard as I could do it from the inside).

On fastening new ones, I find the whole speednut set up to be a problem in the waiting. The stud can break off or the speednut can loosen.

A totally foolproof approach is to put some RTV on the outside around the hole, then a blob on the inside around the stud. Some masking tape to hold it in place for a few hours and you have a very sturdy fastener that does not change with vibration and can be removed if need be. The RTV also seals the hole so no moisture can get in and start a hidden rust problem.

On the subject, if you have good hash marks with broken studs, you can drill and tap them for 6-32 threaded rod (or put a bolt in and cut the head off) - they are quite salvageable. You need a drill press to set the depth so you don't drill through to the outside!

John


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