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62 T Bird won't stop running

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  • RetiredBMC
    Newbie
    • Mar 12 2017
    • 9

    62 T Bird won't stop running

    Greetings Thunderbirders....I'm restoring a 62 T Bird hardtop and I ran into an issue that is kicking my butt!! So far I have replaced the ignition switch, ignition coil, voltage regulator and the solenoid and generator are only about a month or two old. The car was running perfect until I changed out the old battery cables because they were all beat up. Went to start the car......perfect....went to turn the key to off and pulled the key out of the ignition and the car continues to run. I was able to get the car turned off by blocking off the air intake. I'm at a lost here.....anyone ever have an issue like this before?

    Thanks in advance.
  • jopizz
    Super-Experienced


    • Nov 23 2009
    • 8316

    #2
    For your car to turn off your ignition switch needs to shut off power to the coil. The battery cables should have nothing to do with it. Check the + terminal at the coil with the key off. You should have no voltage. Turn the key to on and it should have between 6 and 9 volts. If you have power with the key off then your switch is bad. Did you change out the ignition switch before or after the problem started.

    John
    John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

    Thunderbird Registry #36223
    jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

    https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

    Comment

    • RetiredBMC
      Newbie
      • Mar 12 2017
      • 9

      #3
      I changed out the ignition switch after I discovered the problem....that was the first thing I tried.....so far, I'm striking out...lol

      Comment

      • jopizz
        Super-Experienced


        • Nov 23 2009
        • 8316

        #4
        Rather than replace parts you need to follow the basics of troubleshooting ignition systems. All replacing parts does is add unknowns to the problem. The ignition system in your car is very basic. It involves power from the battery to the ignition switch to the coil. It's either off or on. You need to use either a test light or voltmeter to diagnose the problem. The wiring diagrams are available in the Technical Resource Library. They are very easy to follow. Does this happen every time you start the car or is it sporadic. One suggestion I can make is when it happens remove the small brown wire that is on the front of the solenoid. If the engine shuts off then you have power going through the solenoid when it shouldn't be. If the car continues to run then you will have to look further down the line.

        John
        John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

        Thunderbird Registry #36223
        jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

        https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

        Comment

        • simplyconnected
          Administrator
          • May 26 2009
          • 8779

          #5
          I'm totally with John on this. You end up with a basket full of good parts you cannot return when throwing parts at a problem.

          John, is it possible his firewall plug is shorted? That is a notorious place where corrosion opens and shorts pins. Maybe you can assist from here. - Dave
          Member, Sons of the American Revolution

          CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

          "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
          --Lee Iacocca

          From: Royal Oak, Michigan

          Comment

          • jopizz
            Super-Experienced


            • Nov 23 2009
            • 8316

            #6
            Originally posted by simplyconnected
            John, is it possible his firewall plug is shorted? That is a notorious place where corrosion opens and shorts pins. Maybe you can assist from here. - Dave
            That's certainly a possibility. It strikes me as odd that he says it started when he replaced the battery cables. Maybe he caused some voltage spike that fried the connector. That should be easy enough to pull apart and check.

            John
            John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

            Thunderbird Registry #36223
            jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

            https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

            Comment

            • RetiredBMC
              Newbie
              • Mar 12 2017
              • 9

              #7
              Originally posted by jopizz
              That's certainly a possibility. It strikes me as odd that he says it started when he replaced the battery cables. Maybe he caused some voltage spike that fried the connector. That should be easy enough to pull apart and check.

              John
              You'll have to forgive my ignorance......but where would that connector be located at?

              Comment

              • RetiredBMC
                Newbie
                • Mar 12 2017
                • 9

                #8
                Originally posted by simplyconnected
                I'm totally with John on this. You end up with a basket full of good parts you cannot return when throwing parts at a problem.
                Very true....unfortunately my pride won't let me ask for help until I've tried everything I think I know....lol.

                Comment

                • Yadkin
                  Banned
                  • Aug 11 2012
                  • 1905

                  #9
                  Don't sweat it- we've all been there.

                  Comment

                  • jopizz
                    Super-Experienced


                    • Nov 23 2009
                    • 8316

                    #10
                    Originally posted by RetiredBMC
                    You'll have to forgive my ignorance......but where would that connector be located at?
                    Look on the driver side firewall below the master cylinder.

                    John
                    John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                    Thunderbird Registry #36223
                    jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

                    https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

                    Comment

                    • simplyconnected
                      Administrator
                      • May 26 2009
                      • 8779

                      #11
                      Originally posted by RetiredBMC
                      Very true....unfortunately my pride won't let me ask for help until I've tried everything I think I know....lol.
                      Get those thoughts behind you, quickly. This international site is founded on friends who are here for guys just like you, so we can HELP with your problems.

                      Please allow us to work on your issues together. All of us started out knowing nothing. I've had great help from the engineers who designed your car at Ford because they were eager to share their career passion. We want to see your car on the road.

                      BTW, your problems have been shared in the past so, you're not alone. Feel free to ask because all questions are important, not only to you but to others who might have the same problems. - Dave
                      Member, Sons of the American Revolution

                      CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                      "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                      --Lee Iacocca

                      From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                      Comment

                      • RetiredBMC
                        Newbie
                        • Mar 12 2017
                        • 9

                        #12
                        Haven't found it yet........however, I did find 3 wires....one white that runs with 2 red wires all taped up that run along the top of the block behind the valve covers (white connects to top of oil filter unit) red that goes the top of the engine block (sending unit?) and the red that goes to the + terminal on the ignition coil....all 3 of these wires had "breaks" in the insulation and some points of the wire were melted from the engine heat and the copper wire inside was exposed.....these wires lead straight back to the firewall, drivers side. There were also 2 green wires, those go to the master cylinder...those I know are for the break lights...replaced that sending unit already :-). I'm cutting those out and splicing new wires in.....hopefully, that was the source of my troubles???? wish me luck.....or....tell me if I'm screwing up...lol. I seriously owe you guys a cold one for all your help....I really do appreciate you patience and wisdome here

                        Comment

                        • jopizz
                          Super-Experienced


                          • Nov 23 2009
                          • 8316

                          #13
                          The white/red wire goes to your oil sender, the red/white goes to your temp sender. Those wires are normally not hot when the key is turned off so I don't think that is the cause of your issue; however the brake light switch wires could cause a problem if they were shorted to your coil wire. I agree that you should repair any bare wires and see if that fixes your problem.

                          John
                          John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                          Thunderbird Registry #36223
                          jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

                          https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

                          Comment

                          • simplyconnected
                            Administrator
                            • May 26 2009
                            • 8779

                            #14
                            Follow the wires on your starter solenoid. One is yellow, another is red/blue. They should be in the same firewall plug as your temp and oil sensor wires.

                            The plug needs to be disconnected so you can see the pins inside. This is important because water can corrode the insides. - Dave
                            Member, Sons of the American Revolution

                            CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                            "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                            --Lee Iacocca

                            From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                            Comment

                            • jopizz
                              Super-Experienced


                              • Nov 23 2009
                              • 8316

                              #15
                              Here's a diagram showing the two main connector plugs. They are below and to the right of the master cylinder/booster.

                              John
                              Attached Files
                              John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                              Thunderbird Registry #36223
                              jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

                              https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

                              Comment

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