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**Tbird1044** · September 22, 2015, 09:04 PM

What a great idea to clone a factory bracket. This bracket seems to always come up when doing a disc conversion.
You work on the brake bracket and I'm still working on getting the brass window rollers fabbed. Think I am getting close.

Nyles

**simplyconnected** · September 22, 2015, 10:52 PM

Sorry, but it won't fit a modern booster.
In a perfect world where the firewall bracket and booster were made for each other, it would work with the addition of the REST OF THE KIT (longer hockey stick/brake pedal rod).

New boosters use a different height and width to their hole pattern, as you can see:

Remember, the original booster was riveted to the firewall bracket so they could not be separated. That forced the 'extension' to go between the bracket and firewall. We have two better solutions. Either cut the rivets off your booster (because it doesn't offer enough boost for disk brakes) and add your own extension* for the new booster OR fabricate your own firewall bracket using Howard's plans.
* This way you retain your original hardware from the pedal to the firewall bracket.

I sincerely hope the old Ford kit doesn't come up again and I hope nobody buys one. Ford's original power drum brake system was terrible at best. Disk brakes require far more boost. If you want to have something made, send out Howard's plans for a new firewall bracket. - Dave

**YellowRose** · September 22, 2015, 10:55 PM

'60 Tbird Power Brake Spacer Kit

Thanks, Dave, I guess I should have run that through you first before I posted it. I did not know that it would not work with our modern dual stage boosters. I made the assumption that it would. Oh well! The interesting thing is that one of our own members happens to own one... or used to....

**ncbird** · September 23, 2015, 05:31 AM

Booster bracket

As Dave says the dealer installed bracket alone will not solve the problem. It was designed to be used with the factory firewall mounted booster and bracket. It fit the firewall bolt pattern and consequently the booster bracket. It fit between the firewall and the booster bracket and came with a longer hockey stick. To utilize it you would have to take an orIginla booster and remove the bracket as we have done to mount the new booster on non a/c cars.

**DKheld** · September 23, 2015, 06:42 AM

Original Tbird 8 inch single stage booster - approx 650 psi boost pressure with 23 inches of vac.

New dual stage 8 inch booster approx 900 psi boost pressure with 23 inches of vac.

Only about 250 psi increase.

The originals work fine - very fine - and has been working fine for 10+ years

(with the booster face replaced to accept a modern master cyl - thanks Booster Dewy)

Even on those steep mountain roads

and there it is 10 years later still working fine - even outlasted the engine

As Grant mentions - you could always cut the Tbird single stage booster off and use the original bracket with the spacer if you wanted a newer booster. The kit would have the needed longer brake pedal rod. The biggest advantage I see is it that the newer boosters would be cheaper and quicker to replace (until someone comes up with a new brake idea and they quit making boosters

).

Still a worthwhile project IMHO even if only to give the current bracket makers some competition and reduce prices.

Eric

**Guest** · September 23, 2015, 03:10 PM

Booster bracket

The simplest way to solve the A/C clearance problem is to cut the original bracket off the old under hood booster and add an extension. That way you don't have to change anything from the brake pedal to the booster. MBM sells a 74-95 Jeep extension bracket that will work. Part Number B7495. It has elongated holes that will fit the Ford original bracket according to their website. If you have the under dash booster you need to come up with an under the hood type booster to get the bracket.

Hope this helps, Gary

**simplyconnected** · September 23, 2015, 03:47 PM

How would you like a CHROME 8" Two stage universal booster for UNDER $55 (with free shipping)?

CLICK HERE

The input bolt centers are on standard 3-3/8" square and it comes with a check valve.

As for the Ford extension... If you already have a OEM booster with all the necessary hardware connected to your brake pedal, why would you disturb that by replacing it with the same thing?

To retrofit a modern booster, simply cut the rivets off your OEM booster and keep the firewall bracket on the firewall, just as it always was. Then connect a new universal booster to that using your own spacer. Yes, you need to drill four holes in your spacer but you can widen and use the rivet holes in the firewall bracket side and put the booster holes on 3-3/8" (standard) centers.

As Eric said, the new two-stage 8" boosters produce about 40% more than drum brake OEM boosters. Disk brake calipers need at least that much to work properly.

The bellows-type boosters offer very little-to-nothing for power brakes. - Dave

**DKheld** · September 25, 2015, 08:42 PM

Originally posted by simplyconnected

As for the Ford extension... If you already have a OEM booster with all the necessary hardware connected to your brake pedal, why would you disturb that by replacing it with the same thing? - Dave

Dave - some nut would want to do that if they were putting A/C on a car that did not originally have A/C.......oh wait......that describes me exactly......on both accounts.

Eric

(I've always wondered how much pressure the old bellows booster under the dash produces (just for grins)).

**simplyconnected** · September 26, 2015, 12:35 AM

Eric, Howard Prout's convertible came with no air so he added factory air (and his 8" two-stage booster).

You should cash-in on this Amazon deal, Eric. I almost want to go down to NC, re-mount your upper ball joints and add this booster. If you lived closer I would because I have a lot of respect for you and how you 'pioneered' power disk brakes for the rest of us. Besides that, you are a great guy. - Dave

**Guest** · October 4, 2015, 11:03 AM

Enlighten me. I am I'm the process of gathering parts for a disc brake conversion. On my 1960 third with AC and Kelsey Hayes booster under dash. I purchased a master cylinder, booster and proportioning valve from abs power. The bracket on the booster raises it and extends the booster out, but from what I read here with that clear the AC plenum? Will I need another bracket to attach booster to brake pedal on firewall?

**simplyconnected** · October 4, 2015, 01:58 PM

You should be ok with the package from ABS.

**Guest** · October 4, 2015, 04:06 PM

You da man simply.

**Randy** · March 27, 2016, 10:06 PM

Originally posted by simplyconnected

How would you like a CHROME 8" Two stage universal booster for UNDER $55 (with free shipping)?

CLICK HERE

The input bolt centers are on standard 3-3/8" square and it comes with a check valve.

As for the Ford extension... If you already have a OEM booster with all the necessary hardware connected to your brake pedal, why would you disturb that by replacing it with the same thing?

To retrofit a modern booster, simply cut the rivets off your OEM booster and keep the firewall bracket on the firewall, just as it always was. Then connect a new universal booster to that using your own spacer. Yes, you need to drill four holes in your spacer but you can widen and use the rivet holes in the firewall bracket side and put the booster holes on 3-3/8" (standard) centers.

As Eric said, the new two-stage 8" boosters produce about 40% more than drum brake OEM boosters. Disk brake calipers need at least that much to work properly.

The bellows-type boosters offer very little-to-nothing for power brakes. - Dave

Just kick back and taking notes my booster brackets are getting closer

**Ford351c594** · March 30, 2016, 06:11 PM

Originally posted by simplyconnected

How would you like a CHROME 8" Two stage universal booster for UNDER $55 (with free shipping)?

CLICK HERE

just ordered it. LOL I'll let you know on quality of the chrome.

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'60 Tbird Power Brake Spacer Kit

'60 Tbird Power Brake Spacer Kit

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