Hey Jesse,
John G had posted this some time back, its worth a try! I locked my keys in mine once (only set at the time). I unlocked it by taking out the back seat (vertical part) and then putting a stick with a hook on it into the trunk. There is something on the lock inside you can pull on to unlock it. I would have to go home and open mine to remember and I could take a picture of the lock from the inside for you. This is awhile ago - I made two spare sets of keys and have not repeated the adventure.

I vaguely recall the spare tire as being the biggest obstacle and also that I have not installed a trunk kit yet so I had
openings to work with that probably aren't there anymore.
Richard D. Hord

Jesse
My lock went bad last month. the key should only turn about a quater of turn to the right. You might try pushing down on the trunk lit and very slow turn the key at the same time push the key into the lock cylinder very hard. What happen to my lock was the lock cylinder came out on the lock and it would trun many times, if your key clyinder comes out you stick a screw driver into the lock and open the trunk, I guess i was very lucky, I bought a new lock cylinder form Macs.
Good Luck
Bob

Thanks Guys!
Richard, pics would be really helpful if it isn't to much trouble.
Bob, i'll give that a shot and keep my fingers crossed that it works.

JR

CLICK HERE to see a short video on how the trunk latch works. When you turn the key, a cam-action pushes the lever towards the rear, releasing the latch. This is the part Richard Hord wrote about, hooking with a long wire.

I sure hope this helps. If not, maybe you can find a skinny 8 year-old who can crawl in there with a flashlight and a hook. I'm not sure, but it looks like two bolts on the bottom bracket will disconnect the latch. - Dave

Hey Jesse,
That's my good buddy Dave there! Don't let him kid you he is a expert when it comes to old cars!
Dave you da man
Richard D. Hord

What I did

When I brought my 60 home from a junk yard the trunk latch was rusted tight. I removed the rear seat and use a 3/8" drive socket set and a chain of extensions to remove the two bolts that hole the lower assemble in place (bolts 20327-3). If I remember correctly they are 7/16 and I used a 6 point socket. It took two people one to turn the ratchet and one to support and guide the array of extensions. I got mine I hope you get yours.

Thanks for all the help and ideas guys. Dave, I really appreciate the detailed info. Wasn't able to work on last weekend but have time set aside on Saturday, i'll let you know how it goes.

Jesse

Jesse, I cannot take any credit for my post.

Alexander (the founder of Squarebirds.org, God rest him) gave most of the info that I referenced. I believe that's his hand in the first picture, he shot the video, and the exploded view is from a Ford parts catalog.

Many of the guys I worked with in the Rouge lived in (and loved) Westland. Good to see another Detroiter on our site. - Dave

People: I have said it before and I will say it again. That is why, this is the best site on the planet for Thunderbirds out there. Look at you guys go with the info on this problem, suggestions, pictures and video. Now where else are you going to find that

Well, it took a couple more weeks to get to than I had planned but as it turns out the lock mechanism is in perfect working order. The problem was that when I closed the trunk lid the last time I closed a chair cover in the lock and seized the mechanism. I pulled the back seat and was able to get to everything with a hook.

Thanks again for all the help. Dan is right, Squarebird folks are the best!

JR

Hey Jesse,
Glad it worked out for ya! That's what we are here for!
Richard D. Hord

Removal of rear seats, trunk latch, and how they work (with video)

I know this is an old post, but I just had to go through the whole process myself to get my rusted latch apart and finally be able to open the trunk after 9 or so years. Thanks to the info from others on here, I was set on the right path, but wanted to add to it with step-by-step instructions, correct bolt sizes, and a video link for those that would like it.

-Pull up on the bottom of the rear seat and it will pop up. Remove.
-Seatback removes with two flat head screws on edges and two 3/8" head bolts on bottom. Seatback then slides down and out.
-Remove cardboard piece carefully from tabs and push inside trunk to allow access through the 4 holes going into the trunk area.
-Make about a 4 foot super-long extension (duct tape extensions together and use 1/2" (or 13mm) 6 point socket at end to loosen and remove the two bolts holding the latch on.

Latch will come free and you will now be able to open your trunk!

Took me about 5 minutes to take seat out, and about 30 minutes to undo bolts due to all the stuff crammed in the trunk! Much easier if the spare is not in there!

I also made a video on the removal process and how the locking mechanism works, and posted it on YouTube.


Hope this helps anyone else with a '58-'60 T-Bird!

Trunk Lock/Latch Problem

Hi Richard,

Thank you for documenting the procedures, along with the video clip, of how to get into the trunk to get the latch released. It has been covered before, but not with a video clip of how to do it. I would like your permission to take your step by step procedures, and the video clip, put it into a web page and place it in the Technical Resource Library (TRL) for future use. I know that down the road, someone else is going to have the same problem, as they have in the past. With it documented like this, it will be a big help to them to look it up in the TRL and do it.

I am fine with that.
I will likely film more of the procedures that I go through in the future and post those as well... if you would like to use those that will be fine as well.
Videos have been so helpful in the restoration of a couple of other vehicles I have worked on, I would like to help others with these 1958-1960 T-birds in the same way.
Thank you!
(If you start making money on it, we can work out a percentage that you can throw my way... ok?)