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-   1958 To 1960 Squarebirds - General Technical Discussion (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=14)
-   -   Kevin's 59 t-bird restoration. Aka "angry bird" (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=18018)

kevin 12-03-2014 08:02 PM

Kevin's 59 t-bird restoration. Aka "angry bird"
 
I wanted to introduce myself my name is Kevin and I just picked up this 59 Thunderbird and I plan to go pretty wild on this restoration I wanted to post some pictures of the car but I can't attach any images and if anybody can tell me how to do that and I'd be great.

YellowRose 12-03-2014 11:50 PM

Kevin's 59 t-bird restoration. Aka "angry bird"
 
Hi Kevin, apparently, you did not read the Welcome that I posted to you in the New Members Welcoming Forum. I sent you a Private Message about that also. If you will click on this link, and read down through it, you will find the information on how to go about posting pix on this Forum. There are at least 3 ways to do it. One of them you already know about because you used Photobucket to do it. When you do post from Photobucket, or any other means, you MUST keep your pix to no bigger than 800x600 pixels. I see from the pix you put in Photobucket that she has the red and white interior. Here is the link.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ad.php?t=18002

kevin 12-04-2014 08:58 PM

Thanks. I read the link.

Anyhoo, today i pulled the driver window motor because I'm just hearing clicks and nothing more in the door.
I believe everything is seized due to the moisture out where this car has sat for 10 years.


I unbolted the 2 3/8 inch nuts and wiggled out the motor. My question is: should I be able to manually press the window down without the motor in place? Or do I have to pull the entire regulator out as well to free the window?
Thanks!

jopizz 12-04-2014 09:54 PM

The regulator has a counter weight spring on it so you will have to remove the regulator to manually move the window up and down.

John

kevin 12-04-2014 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jopizz (Post 88197)
The regulator has a counter weight spring on it so you will have to remove the regulator to manually move the window up and down.

John

Thanks John.

Tbird1044 12-05-2014 01:36 PM

Driver window
 
I took a bolt that was the same diameter of the motor shaft, cut the head off and then ground a flat on the bolt to match the end of the motor shaft. Then I put the modified bolt in a battery powered drill and used the coupling to connect it to the regulator. If the regulator is not totally frozen, you should be able to move the window up and down with the drill motor.
Nyles


Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin (Post 88196)
Thanks. I read the link.

Anyhoo, today i pulled the driver window motor because I'm just hearing clicks and nothing more in the door.
I believe everything is seized due to the moisture out where this car has sat for 10 years.


I unbolted the 2 3/8 inch nuts and wiggled out the motor. My question is: should I be able to manually press the window down without the motor in place? Or do I have to pull the entire regulator out as well to free the window?
Thanks!


kevin 12-05-2014 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tbird1044 (Post 88210)
I took a bolt that was the same diameter of the motor shaft, cut the head off and then ground a flat on the bolt to match the end of the motor shaft. Then I put the modified bolt in a battery powered drill and used the coupling to connect it to the regulator. If the regulator is not totally frozen, you should be able to move the window up and down with the drill motor.
Nyles

I was wondering if I could do something like that! I will try that and post results. EVERYTHING on this car has been rusted together.
The carburetor secondaries, the points, the light switch, the trunk, and the doors.

simplyconnected 12-05-2014 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin (Post 88215)
...EVERYTHING on this car has been rusted together...

Kevin, I know you are in California but out east we are used to loads of rust. It's an ongoing battle for us because of all the salt we use on ice and snow. Clouds of salty mist are kicked up by wet tires especially on interstates. Unless we have a heated garage, the concrete floor sweats. Many of my buddies line the floor with cardboard as an insulator.

90% of restoration is in 'cleanup' (de-rusting, painting) and general fabrication. The easy part is putting it together after all the parts are clean. - Dave

kevin 12-05-2014 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplyconnected (Post 88217)
Kevin, I know you are in California but out east we are used to loads of rust. It's an ongoing battle for us because of all the salt we use on ice and snow. Clouds of salty mist are kicked up by wet tires especially on interstates. Unless we have a heated garage, the concrete floor sweats. Many of my buddies line the floor with cardboard as an insulator.

90% of restoration is in 'cleanup' (de-rusting, painting) and general fabrication. The easy part is putting it together after all the parts are clean. - Dave

Thanks Dave! Yeah my last restoration was a 69 mustang fastback from Detroit.
Called it the rustang. Absolutely no floor pans like the flinstones lol. Also some genius had used roofing tar to cover the underside which I had a sweet time melting off with a torch to repair the floors frame and torque boxes.

kevin 12-05-2014 07:45 PM




Test with picture....


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