Squarebirds, Rocketbirds, and Fifties/Sixties Ford Discussion Forum

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-   1964 To 1966 Flairbirds - General Technical Discussion (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=26)
-   -   Efi (http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=19553)

Yadkin 11-03-2015 02:14 PM

We're on the same page, both issues. The manufacturer of these systems warranties them for life, but that won't cover a fire if the wire becomes a fuse.

I have several spots in my custom fuse panel for two new 25 amp circuits to use for the new ignition and the EFI power.

For the temperature sensor, I'll attempt option 3 and go with option 1 if for some reason I can't tap that existing steel fitting. There should be plenty of turbulence in that area to keep the sensor at the actual manifold coolant temperature, even if the heater valve is closed.

Yadkin 11-05-2015 10:28 AM

Dave, your opinion please.

On the EZ-EFI harness, the red 12 gauge wire supplying battery voltage to the harness has a 25 amp fuse in the harness, then is spliced to feed three devices:
  • 12 gauge to the "Fuel Pump Controller" (powers the fuel pump)
  • 16 gage to the relay (powers the injectors and the O2 sensor)
  • 18 gage to the ECU

I'm not using the "Fuel Pump Controller" portion of the EZ-EFI harness. Can I therefore reduce the size of the fuse from 25 amps to 15 or 20? A 15 fuse will protect the 18 gauge wire, but I'm not sure if that's enough power to run the O2 sensor.

simplyconnected 11-05-2015 11:30 AM

Yes absolutely, but be aware... The oxygen sensor has an internal heater that draws ~8-amps and the signal is a few milliamps. So, there is half of your fuse capacity. - Dave

Yadkin 11-05-2015 01:50 PM

How many amps do the four injectors draw?

simplyconnected 11-05-2015 03:31 PM

Not much because they are pulsed until wide open throttle. I don't know the exact amperages.

Yadkin 11-05-2015 03:52 PM

They can't be much. It seems that they are similar to a relay, where the 12V input creates a magnetic field to trigger a "switch", in this case a needle valve.

I'll start with 15 amps and see what happens.

Yadkin 11-06-2015 08:39 AM

I ran the harness through the firewall last night. I removed the main sheath, then disconnected most of the wires at the ECU connector, numbering them with the corresponding pin out as I removed them. Then I fed the wires through my new grommet on the vertical wall, left of the brake and below the OE wiring bulkhead connector. I'll install the ECU on the horizontal dash panel above the drivers left leg. I'll install the relay beside it. The O2 harness will feed through the cabin out the large oval hole in the floor pan where the E brake cable runs through. No wire splicing of the FAST harness required!

franklin 11-06-2015 10:21 PM

You guys are impressive! Like watching a motorized version of Big Bang Theory!

Dan Leavens 11-08-2015 09:51 AM

Frank you are correct they are impressive which I why I always say this is the best TBird site on the planet:D

Yadkin 11-10-2015 09:36 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I didn't have a drill big enough so had my local speed shop tap the heater hose fitting for me. He was concerned about the fact that I'd have no water running through it with my heater valve shut. I tested it with my infrared thermometer last night, and the temperature lags behind the manifold during warm-up by about 20 degrees. No big deal.

It really cleans up the top of the motor though. This is option 3 from post 38.

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