RE: Alex

to clean your oil screen, the main obstacle is getting the oil pan off.

You need to remove the two engine mount nuts (3/4" wrench) and then raise the engine up a couple of inches.

Remove all of the oil pan bolts (alot!) and tap/pry/wiggle the pan loose.

To actually get it off the car you may need to rotate the crank a bit. This takes a 15/16" socket up front.

With the pan off you are in good shape and the screen and the pipe it is on are right out in the open and held on by two small bots.

Remove it and use solvent to get it clean (carb cleaner, gas, whatever you like).

You might consider a fresh oil pump since you are this far into it. They are not that expensive (well under $100 at most auto parts stores). If you do this, also get the shaft that drives it.

When you put the bolts back into the cover, put the front ones in first that go into the timing cover.

Use a Fel-Pro oil pan gasket. You can choose between rubber and cork-like. Also use gasket sealer. You will need to go through all the bolts a number of times to get them snug. Let the whole thing stand 24 hours before you put oil in and run it so the gasket sealer can cure and bond. The pay off is a nice, dry underside afterwards.

Make sure you use adequare gasket sealer in the rear around the lower half of the rear main seal. Blow the area clean with compressed air and make sure it is free of oil so the gasket sealer bonds well. If you have any doubts about leakage, this is a real good time to change the lower half of the seal (also available at most auto parts stores for short money).

good luck!

John
'58 hardtop

RE: Alex

John did a good job of answering the question.

Remember don't lift the engine by the oil pan or harmonic damper! They have adapters for the carburetor for the engine cranes. That may be the best way to lift it.

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top