Power window success

Thanks, Vern, for that information! My drivers side is stuck in the up position and won't come down. That is something that will be worked on this week. The information you just posted might help me find and fix my problem!

Yellow Rose - Based on my experience I would start at the switch and work towards the motor. I started the other way and did a lot of work to find it was the switch. I used a Dremel tool with a small wire wheel to clean up the contacts that are part of the switch. To get at the contacts inside the switch body I used a felt tip with rouge on the Dremel. I'm sure there are better Dremel tools to use, but that is what I had available. I want to put some lube on the contacts before I put it together, but need to determine what to use. To lube the rails I sprayed a little silicone lube on a small parts brush (the type with a metal ube for a handle and small stiff black bristles) and "painted" every rail I could reach.

Vern

Ditto - it w sthe switch in my '62, the window was stuck up, cleaned the switch and hey presto, power window!

To lube switches use dielectric grease most parts places carry it. Hawkrod

Thanks Hawkrod, that's exactly what I need.

Vern

Where?????????

Are you guys talking about actually getting inside the switch or just cleaning up the contacts that the wiring plugs into. I have this problem/issues and need to know. Thanks

The switch on the '62 is hard to get into, I just cleaned all the contacts, and sprayed heaps of electrical contact cleaner into the switch (using one of those thin white plastic tubes that fits into the aerosol nozzle) and let it run back out.

FeFranco,

I actually took apart the switch and got inside it to physically clean the contacts. I believe that was necessary based on the arc scoring on the contact surfaces. Like I said, that scoring partially insulated one contact and I was only getting 1VDC to the armature lead of the motor instead of the required 12 VDC. It was easy on my 59. Today I plan on cleaning and lubing the other 3 before I put it back together. I can take some pictures if you like, but here's the process.
1. Remove rear ashtray.
2. Reach in and compress 4 spring clips on the side of the chrome switch carrier while pushing up on it. It was actually more pushing up than pressing the clips that got it out for me.
3. Unhook wiring plugs for the switches that are being cleaned. Keep track of which goes where. I have some contact cleaner spray that I will use inside the plugs and also found that some of the switch connections tabs needed to be cleaned.
4. Unscrew and remove the appropriate brass bus bar on the bottom of the switches that runs between the right switches and the left switches. Keep track of the orientation of the bus bar. The screws also holds the switch button "cartridge" in the switch body.
4. For each switch to be removed, using a suitable tool push in the spring clip retaining tab through the hole under the spring clip while simultaneously pushing down on the clip. Remove the spring clip.
5. Push down on the switch button and use a small screwdriver to remove the switch from the chrome carrier. Keep track of the switch orientation. Note that there is a small spring clip on the inboard side of the switch. This will fall out when you remove the switch, so perform this step with a catch under it.
6. With the switch removed, pull the switch button out of the switch body. Keep track of the orientation of the switch button. You will find that the button is a self contained cartridge with spring and contacts attached as a unit. At least on the rear switch, there are 2 contacts on each side that I cleaned using a small wire wheel on a dremel tool. The switch body is a square tub that the switch button cartridge fits into. There are 4 contacts at the bottom that are riveted in place. These need to be cleaned too. I used a felt tip with rouge on my dremel tool to reach those contacts.
7. I will finish cleaning the contacts with Deoxit contact cleaner, then apply a light coating of dielectric electrical grease. However, I saw no evidence that there was any dielectric grease used originally.
8. Reassemble in reverse order. Positioning of the small inboard spring clip is self evident if you look at the indentation cast into the side of the plastic switch body.

Hope this helps, Vern