Don't trust your gauge. Use a temperature probe to find out what the real temperature is. Test it at the radiator and the intake.

John

Geoffrey:
It sounds like your temperature is in the okay range when you are idling and it creeps up when driving or moving. This is somewhat uncommon to what most of experience. Most posts claim that the temperature rises at long periods of idle or stop and go traffic and comes down as soon as you start moving and get more air flow through the radiator. Just want to confirm what you posted. Have you changed the fan or still using the OEM factory one?
Nyles

Aluminum transfers heat four times faster than iron, so it is a good thing.

The only way to combat heat buildup at sustained idle speeds is to install an electric fan. Electric fans only turn on when the radiator gets hot (regardless of engine temp).

Mechanical fans draw horsepower all the time. At idle speeds, the mechanical fans don't go fast enough, so people add more blades. At running speeds, the mechanical fan runs much faster than needed while it draws much more HP and when your car is pushing air through the radiator at cruising speeds a fan simply isn't needed. In winter, my daily driver goes through months without the electric fan ever turning on.

Adding more cores to the radiator restricts air flow so adding more mechanical fan blades or more radiator cores is not the answer.

Always ask yourself, 'What do modern cars use?" Because, they can idle all day long without heat issues.

New engines are clean inside. They don't have stuck heat riser valves and none of the head gasket holes are rusted through. They also have electric fan systems.

You can find a modern system from the bone yard and adapt it to your car with little fabrication. - Dave

Nyles makes a great point. Rarely, if ever do you see a car run hotter when it's moving than at idle. What is your timing set at. If it's too retarded it will run hot.

John

The timing is supposed to be okay too... as far as i know i ll get the mechanic to check it... am kinda confused coz all things that couls lead to high temp were changed ..

The fan is a 5 blade factory one... and when checked the radiator hoses and intake it was about 162 degress farenheit ... while edelbrock intake was about 185

Possibly you need the anti collapse spring inside the lower radiator hose. At higher engine speeds the water pump will try to pull more and more water through the lower radiator hose. It is the smooth form fitting hoses that are affected. I don't think the corrugated hoses are prone to collapse.

Oh, and Good Luck !

That's a good point for checking your lower hose from the radiator to the water pump.
If you recently had the engine overhauled, did you take any pictures during the reassembly.
The Ford FE head gaskets have an opening on one end for the coolant to flow from the back of the block, through the head, and back to the radiator. Unfortunately, these head gaskets can be installed so the slot for the coolant can be installed so the slot is at the rear or front of the engine. If the head gaskets are installed incorrectly, the proper amount of coolant will not flow through the block and can cause high temperatures.
I pulled my water pump to check if my gaskets were correctly installed and planned on using a boroscope to check if the openings were open or blocked at the front of the engine. I found that I could put my finger in the water pump hole and feel the head gasket to see if it was blocked or open at these ports. I would check everything else first, but if nothing else works out, this is something to check. You might also check with the mechanic that rebuilt the engine and ask if he is aware of this. I'll include a picture to show the port that needs to be open.
Nyles

The timing is supposed to be okay too... as far as i know i ll get the mechanic to check it... am kinda confused coz all things that couls lead to high temp were changed ..

The fan is a 5 blade factory one... and when checked the radiator hoses and intake it was about 162 degress farenheit ... while edelbrock intake was about 185

That's a good one. Both incoming and outgoing radiator hoses are 162 degrees.

Advancing the timing on my 58 made an incredible improvement in how cool the 352 runs. Run as much advance as it can handle.