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  • Engine removal

    Hey guys pulling the engine from my 65 T Bird next week, Ive read the procedure in the shop manual, a few steps have me wondering: removing flywheel to convertor nuts, securing the convertor assembly to housing and removing the lower and upper convertor housing to engine bolts, does the crank need to be rotated to get to the flywheel to convertor nuts

  • #2
    Yes, the crank needs to be rotated to remove the converter nuts.

    John
    John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

    Thunderbird Registry #36223
    jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

    http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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    • #3
      How do you secure the convertor to housing, do you just fab something to secure it, I heard its a real pain if the convertor moves out

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      • #4
        It's not a big deal if the converter comes out. On engines that are seized you need to pull the converter out with it. I don't know what your plans are for the transmission but you should remove the converter and drain it anyway and replace the front transmission seal.

        John
        John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

        Thunderbird Registry #36223
        jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

        http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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        • #5
          Good idea since its right there and I already have a new filter for the trans, and most parts that I have not replaced seem to be original.

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          • #6
            Just make sure you put something under the transmission bell housing when you pull the engine. A cinder block with some wood on top will do it.

            John
            John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

            Thunderbird Registry #36223
            jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

            http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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            • #7
              The front trans seal, is that the pinion seal, I dont find it listed as front seal and dont want to order the wrong part thanks for the help

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              • #8
                Before you pull the engine, put the car up on jack stands so the wheels are off the ground. You don't want the body to move when you start lifting.

                Before disconnecting the starter motor, use it to rotate the engine as you take the torque converter nuts off. The torque converter should stay in the transmission as you separate the torque converter from the flex plate. It is a good idea to mark the flex plate and torque converter just so you know how it was assembled. Remember to put the torque converter drain plugs in front of the flex plate holes when re-assembling. If you follow your marks you won't go wrong.

                The only time I use a brace on the torque converter is when I transport the transmission.

                Take 100 pictures as you go and work safely. - Dave
                My latest project:
                CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                --Lee Iacocca

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by jhuebner View Post
                  The front trans seal, is that the pinion seal, I dont find it listed as front seal and dont want to order the wrong part thanks for the help
                  Here's the front seal part number. If you don't want to order it from Rock Auto most local auto stores can get it for you.
                  Attached Files
                  John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                  Thunderbird Registry #36223
                  jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

                  http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                  • #10
                    Although mine is a '60 I think they will be very similar.

                    This picture shows the inspection plate removed and one of the converter bolts coming through the flywheel - the nut has already removed. I moved my flywheel by using a socket wrench on the front crankshaft bolt. I disconnected the battery and ignition first as Dave mentions so that there was no chance of it firing as I spun the engine - very slim chance but better safe than sorry.



                    Here's a picture of the flywheel on the engine - the converter drain hole is at about the 7 o'clock position. Be sure and align the plug on the converter and hole in the flywheel when you re-install the engine. It took about an hour reinstalling my engine to get it aligned to the transmission - had to wiggle and move it but finally popped in place - just FYI - allow some extra time there - hopefully yours will go right back in.



                    Even though the '65 hood opens from the front rather than from the rear like my '60 I'm guessing you should also plan on removing the hood to be able to lift the engine high enough to clear the front body and fender. Mark the hood and hinges with a pencil so that you can get the alignment close on re-installation.



                    Are you pulling it for a rebuild?

                    Good luck - hope it goes well.

                    Eric

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                    • #11
                      John thanks for the part#, simplyconnected thanks for the advice will follow I have access to a lift so that will be a big help

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                      • #12
                        DK good pics, pulling engine because I have a oil leak seems to be from the rear up by the intake plus the oil pan gasket is pretty wet, the motor mounts are finished and the waterpump is leaking everything seems to be original parts, will also pressure wash and paint/detail the engine

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                        • #13
                          Are you planning on doing a complete rebuild? If not there are certain things I recommend doing. Remove and replace freeze plugs, core plugs and clean out cooling passages; replace rear main seal; replace oil pump and shaft; replace timing chain and gears. If you are planning on having the heads redone this is the time to do it. These are things that are a lot easier to do with the engine out. Buy the complete gasket set rather than buying them individually. It's about $80 but it includes everything you will need.

                          John
                          John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                          Thunderbird Registry #36223
                          jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

                          http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                          • #14
                            Good advice on the freeze plugs I have the gasket kit as well as the oil pump and timing chain/gear, the plan is to do it right the first time

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                            • #15
                              The intake manifold has to be sealed with grey RTV silicone; the cork set will fail. Use composite gaskets for the valve covers and oil pan.

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