Engine removal

[jhuebner]

No time to stop by the car will try this weekend, one question that im getting two answers on is with the 1 piston at full stroke, engine TDC where should the rotor be pointing towards, im getting some saying towards 1 piston some say 1plug wire at the dizzy cap.....what is correct

[jopizz]

#1 plug wire on the cap.

John

[simplyconnected]

Read this a few times and let it sink in...
Let's break down your firing order:


Since the crankshaft takes two full turns for the cam and distributor to rotate once, consider this...
1-5-4-2 <--This is the first crank revolution
.|-|-|-|
6-3-7-8 <--This is the second crank revolution

When piston #1 is up, so is piston #6
...follow the vertical lines between numbers...
When piston #5 is up, so is piston #3
When piston #4 is up, so is piston #7
When piston #2 is up, so is piston #8
The difference is in the cam.
When #1 is on its compression stroke, #6 is on its exhaust stroke.
When piston #6 is in its compression stroke, piston #1 is on its exhaust stroke.
So at TDC on the crank, your rotor may point at #1 spark plug tower OR #6 spark plug tower. But which one is on its COMPRESSION STROKE? Use the paper test, or put your finger over #1 spark plug hole or pull off the driver's side valve cover to watch #6 rocker arms.

***This is etched in STONE***
When #1 piston is in its compression stroke and your damper pulley points at 6 degrees Before Top Dead Center,
your distributor rotor should point directly at #1 SPARK PLUG tower (not between towers) and the rotor should also be facing CYLINDER #6. The points will have just opened.

If any of the above is not true, your engine will be out of time and it will run very badly or not at all. Most distributor caps have a '1' molded into the plastic on top:


I hope this helps. - Dave

[jhuebner]

Thanks for the replies, im betting Ive got the engine at the wrong stroke will start over and take my time, looks like it will not be till Tues, it sucks not having the car at home

[jhuebner]

I now have the engine running, starts right up, it does have a shake, have to set the timing.....slight problem I have no markings on the dampfer/pulley just two white marks TDC was in between the marks, not sure what to be lookin at with timing light other than getting the engine to smooth out, engine will idle on own and smooths out when I give it gas.

[jopizz]

Did you try sanding down the damper to get the rust off. I've never had one where the timing marks aren't visible after cleaning it off.

John

[jhuebner]

Did not try with sand paper was kinda worried about sanding the white marks off, will give it a shot tomorrow

[jhuebner]

Cleaned the pulley the only numbers that I was able to make out was 14 and 10, I matched them up with some timing tape I had, started car to track down a vacuum leak and set timing, vacum leak is coming from the gasket between the intake and carb plate/riser, no way to time the engine with the leak, just wondering what went wrong with the gasket install it was a new gasket

[jopizz]

There are different thickness gaskets available. What type did you use. I would also make sure that the spacer is clean and check it with a straight edge in case it's warped.

John

[jhuebner]

It was a MR GASKET, the leak was where the PCV hose goes into the plate, tomorrow I will check the condition of that hose as well, was just thinking that is the only hose that was not replaced.

[jhuebner]

Lesson learned had the wrong gasket installed, had a squared gasket installed, should be shaped like the carb plate.

[jhuebner]

Installed new gasket, set timing engine sounds good and no leaks but I have a problem with the distributor it makes some clatter sound, loosen it up and tried to take it out, no luck its stuck only moves up slightly just enough to see the upper seal/o ring.......any ideas whats wrong, seems like im going to have to pull the pan and pump......

[simplyconnected]

The only thing holding your distributor is that small bolt. Otherwise, your distributor will pull straight out.

[jhuebner]

I took the bolt completely off and the hold down, the distributor will rotate and move slightly up just will not come out, I did a search on web and as I posted will probably have to drop the pan and pump seems this is not that uncommon once out what is the problem, distributor, oil pump?

[jopizz]

There's nothing in the oil pump that will keep the distributor from pulling out. I've done dozens of them and never had to drop the pan. The worst thing that will happen is the rod comes out with the distributor. Try rotating the crank slightly. It's probably hanging up on the cam gear.

John