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  • #31
    Was finally able to get back to work on the engine, I got it down to small block replaced timing chain and gears, will mask the block up tomorrow for paint

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    • #32
      Tell us more.
      Were the core plugs loaded with goo? What kind of ridge did you find on the cylinder walls? How did the crankshaft measure out? Did you balance the crankshaft?

      The purpose for disassembling the engine is so the machine shop can do their work. They need a bare block to boil it clean, bore,hone and deck the block. Head work is separate but just as important.

      I would like to hear your story. - Dave
      My latest project:
      CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

      "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
      --Lee Iacocca

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      • #33
        Cylinder walls had almost no ridge and the walls shiny and scratch free, pulled the plugs and the water was not to bad have seen worse, crank and bearings seemedmto be in good shape from a visual check right now the block is at a shop for the rest of the disassembly, odometer reading is just over 77XXX, engine looked to be in great shape internally

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        • #34
          John, when your block was original it came with honing marks that are now worn away. These grooves are important for oil control. They also need to be at 45 degrees and in both directions. Otherwise, they will promote piston ring rotation.

          Smooth bores make an engine burn oil (and foul plugs) because of hydroplaning; rings skate over the oil on the intake stroke. The grooves act like the grooves in a highway, giving water somewhere to go.

          The machine shop needs to measure your cylinders from bottom to top. They need to be straight and true with the main bearing saddles. If bores are tapered new rings won't seat and high speed flexing will break the rings.

          I hope you have a good engine machine shop that can explain what your engine needs. - Dave
          My latest project:
          CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

          "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
          --Lee Iacocca

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          • #35
            I hope so too, the shop has a good reputation and have been around along time and only deal with classic American cars

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            • #36
              Now have the engine ready to go, need to finish the engine bay cleaning, will try and post some pics once the engine is back in

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              • #37
                Engine removal

                John best of luck hope to see pictures soon jeff

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                • #38
                  Engine removal

                  All supposed to be happy faces

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                  • #39
                    Engine is in and bolted up just have the carb to install, upper radiator hose and pertronix ignition.....of course top off fluids........looks like Tuesday to be the day

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                    • #40
                      If this is a new or dry engine, don't forget to prime and run the oil pump for a good ten minutes. - Dave
                      My latest project:
                      CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                      "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                      --Lee Iacocca

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                      • #41
                        No worries I have a big note on top of the engine" prime first"

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                        • #42
                          Tried to start the Bird tonight, will not start, installed a Pertronix ignition had spark but just would turn over and backfire thru carb sounded like timing, so I installed points so I could set a good static timing and gap on points to start the car, now have no spark, no backfire nothing just turns over.......will have to wait till next Tues to look at further, any suggestions

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                          • #43
                            Since you were getting spark with the Petronix system and now you aren't the problem must be the points setup you installed. I would check the condenser and the wire from the distributor to the coil.

                            John
                            John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                            Thunderbird Registry #36223
                            jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

                            http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                            • #44
                              John and I have been here so many times before... Now, I want to see at least three pictures.

                              Put your crankshaft on the power stroke for #1 cylinder. If you're not sure where the power stroke is, remove the #1 spark plug, stick a piece of paper in the hole, 'bump' the starter and as soon as the paper spits out, that's the power stroke. Line up the timing marks to 6 degrees BTDC and take a picture of the top of the engine with the distributor cap ON.

                              Get back far enough so I can see the engine and distributor. Now snap another picture with the cap off. Next, take a close picture of your points. Take all three pictures without moving your crankshaft. Let's see what you have. - Dave
                              My latest project:
                              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                              --Lee Iacocca

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                No problem, will take some pictures after work

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