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1964 T-Bird Oil Pump Installation

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  • 1964 T-Bird Oil Pump Installation

    Need some help. My son and I needed to replace the gasket on the oil pan (was leaking). To drop the pan you have to unbolt the oil pump. That was easy...

    How do you reinstall the oil pump? The repair manual says to place pump in pan, and raise pan up and rest on the cross member (cross member is in way, so cannot lift pan straight up, that is why the oil pump had to be removed). Somehow we are supposed to install the pump drive shaft into the oil pump and into the distributor shaft hex opening. There is only a couple of inches (maybe 2) to manipulate it. There must be a technique for this.

    The other thing I was thinking about is installing the pump without the shaft. Then I could remove the distributor and install the shaft from the top. Any thoughts on this?

    Appreciate any help.

  • #2
    Looks like you got the best answer already at another site. That's the way to do it. I use 6 small zip ties to locate the pan gasket so it doesn't fall off, just leave them loose and cut them after starting the pan bolts. I don't like dropping the shaft in from the top, if it goes wrong, you'll be sorry! have the front of the car high enough to work, and take your time, it's not that hard. Good luck, Bob C

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    • #3
      Bob - Which answer is the best that you are referring to? Also, good idea on holding the gasket in place!

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      • #4
        http://www.vintagethunderbirdclub.or...pic.php?t=5728

        If the motor mounts are old and squished out, you might not get the pan up with the pump in place. Put all your parts in the pan and let it rest on the cross member. A glob of grease will hold the shaft in the distributor. Put the pick up on last if you have a tight squeeze, and I use silicone where the rear main cap and front cover parting lines are. Hope this helps, Bob C
        Last edited by redstangbob; February 27th, 2011, 04:23 PM.

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        • #5
          Thanks Bob. There is less than 2" between the pan and engine, so I think I will have to jack the engine up as well.

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          • #6
            I took the pan off my 66 without takeing the pump off. Just jacked the motor up as high as it would go and turned the crank to get it to clear. it fell off

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            • #7
              1964 T-Bird Oil Pump Installation

              Ummmmm! Before anyone raises their engine up.... Remember to raise the hood first!.... Don't do what one of the village idiots here did while working on my Tbird. His manager told him to open the hood before he started working on replacing my engine mounts. He forgot to, pushed up on the engine and drove the retaining rod that the bat wing nut screws onto to keep the air cleaner locked down, right into the center of my hood, dimpling it. They had to take the hood off and get it fixed, and HE lost his job...

              Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
              '59 Tbird "The Yellow Rose Of Texas" aka "Tweety Bird"
              "It's Hip To Be Square"
              Thunderbird Registry #33025 VTCI #11178

              Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or (Cell) 210-875-1411 (Home) 210-674-5781

              http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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              • #8
                Ray, was that the same idiot that caused an electrical fire under your dash? Or the guy who wiped out your constant voltage regulator (twice)?

                I mean, c'mon... who would raise an engine with the hood closed??? Even if he didn't use an overhead crane, at least you get more light under the engine with the hood open.

                You might want to disconnect your fuel line and radiator hoses before lifting. Watch your trans lines and fan, too.
                My latest project:
                CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
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                From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by simplyconnected View Post

                  You might want to disconnect your fuel line and radiator hoses before lifting. Watch your trans lines and fan, too.
                  Yep, keep an eye on that bottom fan-blade as you lift the motor at the front

                  As the motor angle increases the bottom blade gets closer to the radiator.
                  A Thunderbirder from the Land of the Long White Cloud.

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                  • #10
                    1964 T-Bird Oil Pump Installation

                    No, that was another of the village idiots who used to work there. That was also the business that the owners son ran Rose into the back of the manager's F-250 pickem up truck and destroyed her front end... I don't do business with them anymore....

                    Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
                    '59 Tbird "The Yellow Rose Of Texas" aka "Tweety Bird"
                    "It's Hip To Be Square"
                    Thunderbird Registry #33025 VTCI #11178

                    Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or (Cell) 210-875-1411 (Home) 210-674-5781

                    http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for all the great advice! Will take a shot at it this Saturday morning and let you all know how it went!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by tbirds8 View Post
                        I took the pan off my 66 without takeing the pump off. Just jacked the motor up as high as it would go and turned the crank to get it to clear. it fell off
                        TBird - How did you decide "as high as it would go" was? Did you unbolt anything besides the motor mounts?

                        Thanks!

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                        • #13
                          I forgot i took the top part of the fan shroud off also but ya just the mounts. Keep an eye up top when you do this you'll know when it's high enough. I jacked it up by the bell houseing just go easy plenty of 2x4s

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                          • #14
                            Another consideration while removing the pan is strategically rotating the crankshaft so the counterweights are not in the way. If the middle to rear ones are at their lowest point it makes it impossible to get the pan past them. The bolt on the end of the crank takes a 15/16" wrench; an offset box end works pretty good.

                            John
                            1958 Hardtop
                            #8452 TBird Registry
                            http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...tryNumber=8452


                            photo: http://www.squarebirds.org/users/joh...d_June2009.jpg
                            history:
                            http://www.squarebirds.org/users/johng/OCC.htm

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                            • #15
                              On my engine ('58 352) you have to be careful that the bellhousing especially the top center bolt doesn't go into the bottom of the AC evaporator housing. That's as high as I can lift it and it is about 1 2x4 above the motor mount. Replace the oil pump shaft and make sure that the clip is adjusted properly so removing the distributor doesn't pull the shaft out of the oil pump. I found that a shaft from a 292 had been shipped to me which is slightly shorter than those from a 352/390 FE.
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                              CLICK HERE for Jim's web site

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