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WTB 1961-64 Brake Booster Brackets - Used

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  • WTB 1961-64 Brake Booster Brackets - Used

    Need brake booster bracket assembly from 61-64 TBird originally.

    Booster itself can be inoperable/shot, as it will not be used.

    I just need the brackets that are either bolted or factory riveted to it and the lever that pivots within the brackets, but I can remove brackets and pivot lever from booster myself.

    Thanks, Mike
    Last edited by Brushwolf; August 18th, 2018, 08:58 PM.

  • #2
    The A/C cars only had the under dash Kelsey Hayes booster.

    The exception was a factory kit to move the Bendix firewall booster out far enough to clear the evaporator box probably installed at the dealer.

    In 20+ years of looking - I've only seen one kit. It included a small bracket to move the booster out and a longer pedal "rod".

    That kit went to a fellow in Eastern NC. I made my own as I was trying to make my car appear that the A/C system had been added at the dealer. Just some angle iron welded together and then notched out. Believe it was 1 3/4 inches deep. Extended the pedal "rod" by the same amount. Not the greatest job but it works.

    Mine has the original style 10 inch booster with a '61 Lincoln face which gives it the 2 studs for the disc style master cyl. I'm sure it has less boost than the dual action style but works for me. Been in place about 15 years with no problems. If that is something that interests you check with Power Brake Booster Exchange (aka Booster Dewy). He might have one in stock that he will sell without an exchange. Mine was $311 rebuilt and modified 15 years ago - no telling what he would want for one now.

    He still lists the rebuild for the '59-65 ($175)
    Plus the core - could be considered rare ($25 - $500)
    Buy from his stock - he says add $25
    and the mod on mine was $75

    So - Yeah - could be a $500 booster these days.

    And it would cost $175 plus shipping to have it rebuilt if it goes bad. If mine croaks I'm cutting the OEM booster off and going with the dual action.

    Just some info....



    • #3
      Booster brackets and pivot..

      Yep, I know the bracket will have to be extended an inch or two. But I have the under dash booster, so no real starting point to extend from.

      I am not concerned with originality and will be using the 8" dual diaphragm and dual MC. But I need the bracket off a Bendix unit to modify and assuming it won't clear AC plenum without that. I have Howard's diagrams supplied by Ray and so can probably build one from scratch if I have to. But, looks like modifying one from non-AC car would be easier.

      Thanks, Mike
      Attached Files


      • #4
        Old Bendix booster

        So I would be starting with this and removing the booster, extending bracket and rod...
        Attached Files


        • #5
          KH, no bracket..

          Right now I have the KH with no bracket at all..


          • #6
            So I would be starting with this and removing the booster, extending bracket and rod...
            Yes - that's correct.

            The 1 3/4 bracket depth was critical on mine using the OEM booster - very close tolerances. Think I have 1/4 inch now between the edge of the booster and the evaporator. Shouldn't matter as much with the smaller but more powerful 8 inch booster.

            Believe it or not my car did not come with A/C but I have been slowly adding it with factory parts.

            Here's a way back pic before I started adding the A/C components although I had converted to front discs...(that's my aftermarket Dana Corp. cruise control where the evaporator normally should be)

            Wanted to make it look original since my Dad and Mom bought the car new. If I ever get it finished and it works - should be nice. Probably could have been done years ago if I had gone with the aftermarket systems. Have lately decided not to use an original style York compressor in favor of a more efficient Sanden style - but who knows - I may change my mind - again -

            Reconditioned inside of the evap. box.

            Even modified a second console I bought adding the controls for the A/C. Notice the heater controls still say "Magic Aire" rather than the "Select Air" that the A/C car would have. You would have to be a real Tbird nut to notice.

            I've been trying to get my hands on one of these booster and brackets from a '65ish car. I think the bracket is the same just from looks but wanted to measure. Maybe that's something you would want to try??

            (Pic was too big so had to use their preview pic which is too small)- Here's the link to the part for sale (no affiliation and don't know anything about the seller but he has about 3 boosters from '65 Tbirds)


            I doubt we would be able to compare part numbers for the brake bracket because the '60 was a booster and bracket riveted together and on the '65 it appears you could unbolt the booster (which is what you want) so probably different part numbers even if the brackets are the same. Also looks like on the '65 you would need to remove the firewall studs on the bracket - at least for the non-A/C car. Mine already had bolts sticking out of the firewall. Does your A/C car have bolts pressed into the firewall that point toward the engine??

            Last edited by DKheld; August 18th, 2018, 04:40 PM.


            • #7
              I can see there are links to pics in reply function but none show up on post. I have trouble posting pics here too. When I add one it wipes out the previous pic and when I try to load multiple pics at once, only one of them gets attached. Funky picture addition function..

              Might be worth checking out the 65 bracketry. My car has all the AC system intact, but will go with Sanden aluminum compressor for weight and appearance reasons.

              That York unit has always given me the impression that somebody attached a Briggs & Stratton motor to the car engine. Mostly it is a lot of weight, brackets alone probably weigh more then Sanden and updated brackets for it.

              Don't know about the studs protruding from firewall. I bought the car two years ago and brought it to my hobby farm/cars-and-parts-hoarding old farm. Retired now and will go get the car in the next few days, plus extra seats and console I bought about 15 years ago.

              Thanks for the feedback and info.



              • #8
                Pics you posted show up now after I shut down IPad and cleared browsing history. Still won't load more than one pic per post for me, no matter if I load several at a time though. Add a second pic and it removes the first one.

                That is a pretty big hole they put in the firewall for that. Bet that made you nervous cutting it on your car.

                Have read that the AC plenum is very easy to break removing it and that it isn't reproduced. All that true?

                Your's looks pretty clean in engine bay, so I can see why you might be inclined to keep it mostly original in appearance. Mine already has wrong motor and transmission, so it already isn't original.

                Going to do disk brakes and copy Dave's R&P which should make more room for rebuilt 460 I have had sitting on a stand for years now.

                Also could use another rebuilt 400M with 351c heads and 4v aluminum intake sitting here too, but would have to swap oil pans on it and no exhaust for it except some 351c long tube headers that I don't think will fit in TBird engine bay.

                460 has a pair of 429 Police Interceptor manifolds I think might work in the TBird with R&P. Can't believe they sell for 3-4 times what I paid for them 15 or so years ago, when EBay was a treasure hunt experience. And if PI manifolds don't fit I have some raw Crites 460 Thunderbolt headers designed for early 60's Fairlane that I could perhaps make fit... I change my mind a lot too.

                Don't want to build another 390 when I already have rebuilt 351c, 400M and 460 just sitting here.
                Mine has a 68 S-code 390 (knocks..) and a C6 in it, but body was from AZ so it is pretty solid and still wearing weather-beaten original white paint. A few real small spots of rust. Trashed interior, but want to get mechanicals done before messing with that.

                Attached Files
                Last edited by Brushwolf; August 18th, 2018, 08:18 PM.


                • #9
                  Will have to check if 66 is same booster bracket as 65 and 64.. Found a guy parting a 66 near me that they robbed of its 428 and parting the rest of it.


                  • #10

                    1960 brake booster with brackets:
                    Attached Files


                    • #11
                      61-64(?h brake booster

                      61-64(?) brake booster with brackets:
                      Attached Files


                      • #12
                        65 brake booster with brackets

                        65 brake booster with brackets:
                        Attached Files


                        • #13
                          That York unit has always given me the impression that somebody attached a Briggs & Stratton motor to the car engine. Mostly it is a lot of weight, brackets alone probably weigh more then Sanden and updated brackets for it.
                          - that describes the York compressor perfectly.

                          Hope that '66 is the same !!!

                          Yes - I was really biting my nails when I cut the firewall. I even kept the piece that I cut out so I could put it back - ha.

                          Found a pic of mine when I was installing the booster. You can see the studs sticking out of the firewall through my home-made bracket with no nuts on them.

                          I've always put my pics on an off site picture hosting page (Dropshots). It's not very reliable so that may be part of the pic problem. Sometimes when I pull my old pics to post I have refresh 2-3 times to get it to work.

                          The evap box is fragile - particularly the little screw tabs and the clips holding the two parts together (it comes apart in the center). Bought mine off ebay and most of the clips were rusty and wouldn't hold so after I cleaned it out and put the dynamat in I sealed with black silicone. It had a corner busted out and part of the flange that directs air into the car. I used fiberglass to repair it then sprayed it with truck bed liner to make it look new again.

                          Hope it goes easy getting that 460 in there......



                          • #14
                            Am thinking the 65 looks to raise the MC higher than the 61-64, but hard to tell for sure from pics...

                            Wonder if the bottom of the bracket (and flat rod) could be extended at the firewall, instead of the top of the bracket? Might be less noticeable to extend bracket reach down there, if it is possible...

                            Guy with the 66 nearby says he will let me know in the morning if the booster is still on the car he is parting. Although since the bracket unbolts, I probably only want to take the bracket, pivot and flat rod that goes to pedal... CL .... We shall see..


                            • #15
                              Oh yeah - that car looks nice and straight.

                              Lucky to have original A/C car - looks like it has the tinted glass - nice.

                              Let me know what happens !