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WTB 1961-64 Brake Booster Brackets - Used

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  • #16
    Booster brackets

    Originally posted by DKheld View Post
    - that describes the York compressor perfectly.

    Hope that '66 is the same !!!

    Yes - I was really biting my nails when I cut the firewall. I even kept the piece that I cut out so I could put it back - ha.

    Found a pic of mine when I was installing the booster. You can see the studs sticking out of the firewall through my home-made bracket with no nuts on them.



    I've always put my pics on an off site picture hosting page (Dropshots). It's not very reliable so that may be part of the pic problem. Sometimes when I pull my old pics to post I have refresh 2-3 times to get it to work.

    The evap box is fragile - particularly the little screw tabs and the clips holding the two parts together (it comes apart in the center). Bought mine off ebay and most of the clips were rusty and wouldn't hold so after I cleaned it out and put the dynamat in I sealed with black silicone. It had a corner busted out and part of the flange that directs air into the car. I used fiberglass to repair it then sprayed it with truck bed liner to make it look new again.



    Hope it goes easy getting that 460 in there......

    Eric
    I'll have to be real careful with my AC plenum removal then.

    You did a very nice job on your bracket extension. That is kind of what I am thinking except I might just cut the bracket ears off that have the wrong bolt pattern and the studs, make new L-shaped brackets the right length and drilled with the existing firewall bolt pattern to weld back together and eliminate the extra set of bolts entirely. (And extend the rod to pedal also, if necessary)..

    I doubt the 460 will go in easy, but I think it will go. If it is just too problematic I'll try the 400 (longer rods than a 460 and almost as much torque). Would probably be easiest to use the 351c, but hate to lose 100 ft-lbs of torque in a heavy car.

    Mike

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    • #17
      Wanted to get these measurements last night but was lazy.
      Hopefully they are not too late this AM and make sense.

      Rise height from firewall to booster - 1 3/4
      (measuring from the top of the bracket on the FW side to the top of the bracket on the booster side)

      Firewall side
      Overall height of bracket - 4
      Overall width 4
      3 holes in the bracket on FW side
      Top to bottom holes 2 5/16 (these are the ones used for mounting - measured center to center)
      Middle to bottom holes 1 3/16
      Booster pushrod center comes out 1/2 inch below top edge of firewall side of bracket

      Booster side
      Overall height of bracket 4 1/4
      Overall width of bracket 4 1/4
      Top to bottom holes 3 1/2
      Side to side holes 3 3/4

      Eric

      edit - here are some old pics of the booster bracket I dug up.
      Had removed the pedal bar and center lever to send off for modification and rebuilding.
      (of course mine is a '60)



      Last edited by DKheld; August 19th, 2018, 09:45 AM. Reason: add pics

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      • #18
        Thanks for the measurements and pics. Saved to my TBird files.

        I assume the center access hole in the side pic of bracket is for disconnecting the pedal rod coming out of the firewall. If you draw a straight line through the 3 points of the pivot lever connections (booster rod, assume missing brake pedal rod is at the center of access hole, and the lower hole that the hockey stick shaped lever pivots on) - what is center-to-center measurement of top and bottom pivot points and distance that the center of center access hole is from each of them?

        And if you measured vertical difference between the booster rod and the brake pedal rod, what is that distance. I have an aftermarket bracket here that I am comparing with.

        66 guy responded that the booster and bracket are gone from the parts car and thinks brackets from it were used for another car.

        Thanks, Mike

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        • #19
          WTB 60-66 TBird PB booster bracket or assembly including booster.

          Booster itself can be inoperable/shot, as it will not be used.

          I just need the brackets that are either bolted or factory riveted to it and the lever that pivots within the brackets, but I can remove brackets and pivot lever from booster myself if necessary. Flat brake pedal "rod" would be handy also..

          Thanks, Mike[/QUOTE]

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          • #20
            WTB 1961-1964 Brake Booster Brackets - Used

            Mike, Clint66 in Kenyon, MN has 4 1966 Flairbirds he is parting out. Could a bracket off one of them be used? You might contact him. For all I know, he may have parts off a '64 available also. Here is the link to what he posted.

            http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ad.php?t=22149

            Have you contacted Carl Heller ~ partsetal on here? Carl may have a 1960 Squarebird Bendix under the hood booster, mounting bracket set up, or at least the bracket.... In fact, Carl is now logged onto the Forum right now!

            Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
            '59 Tbird "The Yellow Rose Of Texas" aka "Tweety Bird"
            "It's Hip To Be Square"
            Thunderbird Registry #33025 VTCI #11178

            Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or (Cell) 210-875-1411 (Home) 210-674-5781

            http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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            • #21
              Mike - finally had time to get the measurements.

              Fairly tight in there with the evap in place so they may not be exact. Can barely see the pivot point at the bottom of the bracket but that's were the lower line is pointing - darn wiper bag fluid hose was in the way and I didn't realize it. Bottom hole is pivot, middle is flat pedal rod and top is booster rod.



              The measurement from the top of the flat pedal rod to the top edge of the back of the booster bracket closest to the firewall is 3 inches but the flat pedal rod drops about 1 1/4 inches from it's connection point in the center of the bracket to where it goes through the firewall.



              Here's how mine looks finished. Held up for 10+ years so guess it's good enough. (here's where I just stuck my ruler in that opening and let it rest on the top edge of the pedal rod in front of the rubber seal - measuring to the top edge of the back of the booster bracket so pretty sure I was on the low part of the pedal rod not the tip edge where it is connected - hope that makes sense).



              Also you can see on the edges of the evap box one screw tab and one clip that holds the two halves together - those were pretty fragile. If any of the clips are missing or damaged I don't know where you would find any (which is why I had to basically glue mine together with silicone). There is also a rubber seal at the hoses that I had to clean and reinforce with black silicone. On the rubber drain tubes at the bottom of the evap box I just installed some plumbing fixtures and will add a length of hose with a copper pipe at the end flattened so that water can drip out but no bugs or bees will try to make a nest in the round hole (mostly the dirt or mud dobbers around here).

              Saw this - not very close but maybe he would have something cheap that would make it worth the shipping charges. In images 10 and 11 of 14 it looks like the booster bracket is still on the firewall but the booster has been removed. Don't know the seller but just thought I would pass along the info.

              https://knoxville.craigslist.org/pts...643034977.html

              Eric

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by DKheld View Post
                Mike - finally had time to get the measurements.

                Fairly tight in there with the evap in place so they may not be exact. Can barely see the pivot point at the bottom of the bracket but that's were the lower line is pointing - darn wiper bag fluid hose was in the way and I didn't realize it. Bottom hole is pivot, middle is flat pedal rod and top is booster rod.



                The measurement from the top of the flat pedal rod to the top edge of the back of the booster bracket closest to the firewall is 3 inches but the flat pedal rod drops about 1 1/4 inches from it's connection point in the center of the bracket to where it goes through the firewall.



                Here's how mine looks finished. Held up for 10+ years so guess it's good enough. (here's where I just stuck my ruler in that opening and let it rest on the top edge of the pedal rod in front of the rubber seal - measuring to the top edge of the back of the booster bracket so pretty sure I was on the low part of the pedal rod not the tip edge where it is connected - hope that makes sense).



                Also you can see on the edges of the evap box one screw tab and one clip that holds the two halves together - those were pretty fragile. If any of the clips are missing or damaged I don't know where you would find any (which is why I had to basically glue mine together with silicone). There is also a rubber seal at the hoses that I had to clean and reinforce with black silicone. On the rubber drain tubes at the bottom of the evap box I just installed some plumbing fixtures and will add a length of hose with a copper pipe at the end flattened so that water can drip out but no bugs or bees will try to make a nest in the round hole (mostly the dirt or mud dobbers around here).

                Saw this - not very close but maybe he would have something cheap that would make it worth the shipping charges. In images 10 and 11 of 14 it looks like the booster bracket is still on the firewall but the booster has been removed. Don't know the seller but just thought I would pass along the info.

                https://knoxville.craigslist.org/pts...643034977.html

                Eric
                Thanks for pics and measurements. I sent the TN guy an email, so will see what he says...

                Thanks, Mike

                Comment


                • #23
                  Measured the aftermarket pivot bracket here and looks like it is a little shorter than yours.

                  Distance between center of top pivot point and center of bottom pivot point center is 4.5" on yours, 3.56" on mine. Looking from the side, almost an inch shorter.

                  Distance between center pivot point and center of bottom pivot point on yours is 1.75" (4.5-2.75) and mine is 1.5".

                  Still might work though slightly less mechanical advantage than yours. But, if I use a dual diaphragm booster it may not need as much mechanical advantage as yours with single booster. Hate to cut it up to find out though... Has new booster and MC attached to it.

                  Yeah, I figured I will probably have to modify the pedal rod with further offset like you did but that's probably the easy part.

                  Thanks, Mike

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