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  • Rear axle seal leak

    Last time I cleaned out my differential and installed new wheel bearings I found that the passenger side half shaft was corroded at the sealing surface. I installed it as is and hoped for the best. After two months I found a puddle of diff oil under the car next to that tire so pulled the axle back out to inspect, finding the leak at the seal.

    Apparently kits are made for some GM axles which include a bushing and oversize seal. But not for Fords. Luckily I found a local machine shop that could fix it. He cut out the corroded area on a lathe to the exact size of a bushing then froze the axle, heated up a bushing and slid it over the area. After the temperatures were equal he trimmed out the bushing OD to the correct size.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Yadkin; March 21st, 2016, 08:05 AM.

  • #2
    I don't suppose there's an oversized rear axle seal produced yet? I checked my old photos and although my axles are corroded similar to these, the machined area is still clear. So why are my rear axle seals still leaking?

    I remember tapping the new seals in until seated. These are still leaking bad enough that I can see lube on the rear of the backing plates, but not bad enough to contaminate the brake shoes.

    Dean

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    • #3
      Make sure the vent is clear. If it's clogged pressure can cause even new seals to leak.

      John
      John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

      Thunderbird Registry #36223
      jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

      http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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      • #4
        If the leak advances, pull the axle and check for a torn seal. They should not leak. - Dave
        My latest project:
        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jopizz View Post
          Make sure the vent is clear. If it's clogged pressure can cause even new seals to leak.

          John
          I saw the vent on the rear axle housing exploded view in the manual. Where is it exactly and how is it cleaned? I would imagine Brakekleen is out of the question. A wire and some thin cloth just to sure it's venting?

          Dean

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          • #6
            It's on the driver side tube. Use a piece of wire and make sure it goes all the way through. You can also put a piece of hose on it and see if you can blow through it.

            John
            John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

            Thunderbird Registry #36223
            jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

            http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Deanj View Post
              I would imagine Brakekleen is out of the question.Dean
              I wouldn't empty the entire can into the housing, but it would be fine to use, as it will evaporate into the atmosphere thru the now open vent fairly quickly, particularly with the heat created in operation.

              Scott.

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              • #8
                If it's where I Think, on the top side of the driver's side tube, then it's been capped with a metal cap. I don't mean the vent, I mean the vent is missing and the threaded area is capped.

                I checked ebay and it could be a newer version which looks like threads with a loose metal cap. Very primitive. I used Brakleen on it just in case this thing actually is a part.

                Dean
                Last edited by Deanj; December 13th, 2017, 11:39 AM.

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                • #9
                  I believe the original component consisted of a "rattle-cap" vent device screwed into the housing on the driver's side tube towards the top and angled somewhat rearward. The original is somewhat different from the common unit of today, flatter, shorter, less "rattle" function, and perhaps more prone to plugging; and may appear as simply a cap vs a vent devise.

                  At times these caps will become clogged/encrusted, seizing the cap and preventing proper airflow. A good application of cleaner and a light tapping may work, but removal for a more thorough cleaning using compressed air is best.

                  Scott.
                  Last edited by pbf777; December 13th, 2017, 11:59 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by pbf777 View Post
                    I believe the original component consisted of a "rattle-cap" vent device screwed into the housing on the driver's side tube towards the top and angled somewhat rearward. The original is somewhat different from the common unit of today, flatter, shorter, less "rattle" function, and perhaps more prone to plugging; and may appear as simply a cap vs a vent devise.

                    At times these caps will become clogged/encrusted, seizing the cap and preventing proper airflow. A good application of cleaner and a light tapping may work, but removal for a more thorough cleaning using compressed air is best.

                    Scott.
                    You got it Scott. That's it. I cleaned it as best I could. Looks like it's never been serviced. Imagine that.

                    I removed the brake drums and while it looks like some lube is present on the rear backing plate, it's dry as a bone on the brakes side. I got to leave that alone and trust the vent cleaning might address the issue if there is an issue.

                    Dean
                    Last edited by Deanj; December 13th, 2017, 03:01 PM. Reason: Correction to my observations

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