No announcement yet.

leakage behind the fe390

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • leakage behind the fe390

    I myself have tried to locate the source oil oil seppage.The oil gathers somewhat right side side of the oil pan and from there onto the transmission cooling lines and to the bolts outside of the bell housing. So its coming from the top of the drivers side engine. I start the car up and let it idle for a few minutes and shut it down and in about 15 minuted theres about 5 or six dropps on the newspaper. As I look up under again the same location has the oil. Now without dropping the transmission would I be able to see where exactly the drippage is coming from or does anyone out no of a shortcut to this matter. Thank You Larry. ps This is a 1962 t-bird with a new rebuilt fe390 to it. I was told it might be coming from the oil gallery or cam port behind the engine. I ask how often does that happen.. If it was the rear seal what would I need to look for to eliminate the rear seal.

  • #2
    From what your saying it sounds like the manifold. If the gasket in the back isn't right it will leak. This goes for any FE block. Been down that road a few times.


    • #3
      So, it is motor oil? Which side is it leaking? The driver's side is the LEFT side. And is the oil dripping off the oil pan or the bell housing?

      Bring it back to the rebuilder. He will fix it for free.
      My latest project:
      CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

      "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
      --Lee Iacocca

      From: Royal Oak, Michigan


      • #4
        Second on the intake ...
        pretty easy to get wrong. I always dry set the intake first. Set the intake gaskets in place after first putting a coat of aviation sealer (High Tack, permatex, etc.)on the head side of the gaskets and around the water passages on the heads. Use some bolts to line them up and press the gaskets firmly in place. I usually let them sit over night. Next day (the saga continues) set the intake in place and check for fit and make sure the intake sits square to the heads, slide the distributor in place and adjust the intake until the dist. drops all the way into place. Scribe some marks where the intake meets the gaskets on the ends. Now check to see how big of a gap you have at the front and rear. Pull the dist. and intake, take a center punch and make an alternating row of punch marks about a 1/4" apart front and back of the block and the intake on the valley sealing surfaces. Now place bead of ( everything is absolutely clean, right?) the Right Stuff about half again as high as the gaps you observed when set the intake dry. Now put a thin layer of high temp RTV on the intake gaskets and a small bead around the water passages. Carefully set the intake in place on the marks you made and reinstall the dist. and make sure it seats properly. Install all your bolts and run them down hand tight. Now torque them down in three stages side to side center to ends. After doing this operation many times I've found this version to work consistently for me, although I,m equally sure there are other methods that work every bit as well. Mike
        Last edited by gaffney1951; June 3rd, 2010, 11:42 PM.