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62 dirty bird. fuel pump question

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  • 62 dirty bird. fuel pump question

    So I got the dirty bird started, and she's a monster!!!! now its time to get a new fuel pump so I can blow out the lines and put the gastank back in. Ive been calling around a few places , ive found the fuel pump in stock but for the 1962 "with A/c" but I dont have "a/c" anyone know what the difference is, if any ? And can I use that a/c fuel pump for my non a/c dirty bird? Thanks in advance.

    Brian

  • #2
    62 dirty bird. fuel pump question

    Brian, as far as I know, and from what Fred at the Bird Nest just told me, there is no difference in a fuel pump for a '62 Tbird AC or non-AC car. They are the same. You can get an authentic fuel pump for your '62 Tbird from the Bird Nest in Oregon. 800-232-6378 and ask to speak to Don. Part # is M4008 with the screw on filter, $49.95. Also you will need the mounting seal for it, Part # 9417, .99 cents. Or check the other vendors in the Advertisements Forums to see who can beat that price. Here is the Bird Nest website. http://www.tbirdparts.com

    Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
    The Terminator.....
    Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or Call (Cell) 210-875-1411

    https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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    • #3
      Nice!!! Thanks Ray!!

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      • #4
        There is a difference. One pump has a screw-on can with a fuel filter, the other does not.

        Here's what the Ford Catalog says:
        C3SZ 9350-C
        62/63 S *Before 7/15/63" 390 Carter-fuel pump and filter assy (Carter fuel symbol -95)
        identified by 3576 stamped on mtg flange
        -Ford service pkg. includes (1) C1SZ 9417-A gasket and (1) 353107-S reducer identified
        "insert in fuel pump inlet hole when pump is used on Models prior to 1963"
        -used with oil pressure warning light.

        Rockauto.com offers this (Carter M4008) Pump & Filter for $29 + ship:
        They tagged this; for cars WITH A/C.

        This one without the filter (Carter M3150) costs $36:
        They tagged this; for cars withOUT A/C.
        My latest project:
        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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        • #5
          This is interesting - I have AC, the pump with the filter and an inline filter by the carb. I think I would rather have a single fuel line running from the pump to the carb. Do you experienced guys know if this would have been the stock setup or would there have been both the pump filter and an inline filter?

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          • #6
            Stock setup would have been an uncut line from the pump.

            I love the stock fuel filter. It is large with very low resistance, and easily changed for a few bucks. I like the convenience of inspecting the old element and how easy it is to wash the 'bowl' out. Most every auto parts store still carries these filter elements. - Dave
            My latest project:
            CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

            "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
            --Lee Iacocca

            From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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            • #7
              Thanks again Dave. I agree that a large filter with a sediment bowl is the way to go.

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              • #8
                one way valve at pump

                Hi, Newbie here, i have the canister model pump (non AC btw). Outside of the manual plunging diaphragm mechanism. Is the presence of a separate one way valve possibly a difference between the two?
                Krash

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                • #9
                  Y'know Krash, I thought about that. You very well may be right. Ted, verify that the small 'filter' isn't a check valve, designed to keep fuel from draining out of the pump.

                  This is a common problem as pumps get old. There isn't a rebuild kit for the check valve and it certainly isn't cost effective to change a good-working pump just because the check valve went south.

                  I added a check valve to my '59, just before fuel enters the pump. That way a good head of fuel keeps pressure on the valve to keep it closed, so the pump doesn't lose it's prime.

                  Tom, if you take the small 'filter' out and you're able to blow in either direction, it's a filter. If flow only goes one way, it's a check valve. - Dave
                  My latest project:
                  CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                  "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                  --Lee Iacocca

                  From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                  Comment

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