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Cowl top inner, rusted through

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  • Cowl top inner, rusted through

    On the previous thread that I wrote included a question about the Cowl drain, I was assuming it was supposed to hang in the wheel well or so on the splash shield but it was not. It was because I thought that cool air goes through that hole (summertime) to bring some fresh air. But I was answered that fresh air goes to the cowl in front of the windshield. My misunderstanding since I knew that cowls on a small Cessna are on the side of the engine or so ha ha. So indeed the question came up 'Where does the water go?' especially if dirt is holding it back and it fails to drain.

    Just found out tonight! On the drivers legs!
    The Cowl top inner part, I looked it up in the 59 illustr.parts catalog page 769 group number 02018, (the cowl with ventilation grill is 02010).
    Tried to copy a part of the drawing from the pdf file of the illustr. catalog but was not possible, came out blank. I then looked in the text catalog to get the ford part number.
    its part number: Cowl top inner panel assy S, B8S 6302018-A .

    The damage is not that big though, there is a hole about the size of a silver dollar and the whole area needing to be replaced maybe 6 by 3 inches or so on the drivers side between the wiper and the side of the car just above and in front of the ignition switch about.
    Best thing for me I think is to just try to cut it out and weld an piece of sheet metal over it as nice as possible I can get to it, but that should be possible. The rest of the inner cowl is in good shape.

    Question is, did anybody dealt with the same problem and how did they solve it?
    Are there pre-shaped pieces available? or ready made pieces? Or would only be complete inner cows be available.
    Replacing the whole inner top cowl is not needed and in order to do that must cut up half the car to get to it.
    I can reach it from inside the car to since the dash is out.

    regards
    Ron
    sigpicGreets,
    Ronald
    Kuusamo
    http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...tryNumber=1741

  • #2
    This is a cramped area to work in, and welding will melt the asphalt coatings on the panel and contaminate your weld. What about riveting or screwing a patch over the hole and using asphaltic roofing cement to seal the patch?
    Carl

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    • #3
      There are adhesives out there so good they fasten body parts together. No welding! Fender work and so on. So if they are adequate there, they might more than do the job in your case.

      I would try Eastwoods, for example.

      John
      1958 Hardtop
      #8452 TBird Registry
      http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...tryNumber=8452


      photo: http://www.squarebirds.org/users/joh...d_June2009.jpg
      history:
      http://www.squarebirds.org/users/johng/OCC.htm

      Comment


      • #4
        Yeah Ron, patch it. Does your cowl top look something like this:



        Rather than using roofing tar, I would buy a spray can of pickup truck bed liner. It does everything you want and it is easier to work with (no heating). You can brush it, just to work it into gaps. - Dave
        My latest project:
        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

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        • #5
          thanks Dave, no the part is not in this picture, the cowl vent in the picture is 02010 (number not shown here, but its the inner one 02018 so it cannot be seen from the outside.
          I will do that, cut away the rusted part with the hole in it and fit 2 pieces of new sheet metal, 1 outside and 1 from the inside under dash, thick enough to be strong and thin enough to bend it a bit when I push it into place. Yes using adhesives is better than welding since its not important for structural strength anyway. and then use some roof bitumen tar of flatbed liner.

          thanks and regards
          Ron
          sigpicGreets,
          Ronald
          Kuusamo
          http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...tryNumber=1741

          Comment


          • #6
            Ron, please post a photo of the rusted area for future reference.
            Ken
            1959 J Convertible
            1960 J Hardtop

            Comment


            • #7
              Yes, I will post the pics here.
              regards
              ron

              btw,its an advantage working in this old pig-stable with 6 other old U.S. muscle cars, never see anybody and the floor is paradise, full of old discarded U.S. threaded nuts and bolts and pieces of usable sheet metal. I will be fixing the holes this weekend.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by kuusamon; April 30th, 2010, 01:01 PM. Reason: add info
              sigpicGreets,
              Ronald
              Kuusamo
              http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...tryNumber=1741

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for posting those pictures. I'm surprised to see the extent of the rust-thru. Is this the low spot where water would collect if the car was level, or are there several low spots?
                Ken
                1959 J Convertible
                1960 J Hardtop

                Comment


                • #9
                  yes this is the left (driver) side, low side where the water would collect and supposed to drain but if its dirty, mud, etc the water can't run off. Possibly because its the driver side it's always a bit lower than the right side, however I have a hunch that the right side might have a similar weak spot but not as bad. I will strengthen both sides anyway.
                  regards
                  Ron
                  sigpicGreets,
                  Ronald
                  Kuusamo
                  http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...tryNumber=1741

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thought I write a little update. Its a difficult place to reach but I cut some nice pieces of sheet-metal into shape. Could not make it out of 1 piece because it does not fit through the top part.
                    Found in the building where I am working sandblasting equipment, a blaster that connects to my air-compressor and a bag full of nice blasting-sand. it has a small nozzle. Have to make sure that no sand goes to the inside of the car. But in that way I can get rid of the rust and see how big the area is I have to fix. Will then use either Zinc(cold galvanizing) spray or rust primer before I glue the new piece in. Then seal it off with the roof sealant so no water can go there ever.
                    regards
                    Ron
                    sigpicGreets,
                    Ronald
                    Kuusamo
                    http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...tryNumber=1741

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      paint

                      one of the things you might consider is POR paint products. I dont know if they are available there. They are designed to go over old metal and seal it.
                      Grant
                      NCbird on the Coast of NC
                      "Dads Bird" for my father

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I looked at the website of Por, looks very nice and sounds what I want to have but we don't have it here. But we do have other brand names here that might work as good as long as it seals it all in.
                        I was thinking also that on the side of the inner cowl there is a metal piece upright to guide the water so the water will fall down towards the door, this part is also rusted, I would like to get to the other side of that part, how to get there? If I remove the inner splash shield in the wheel well than I will be able to get in that side space where the water falls down? where does the water go from there because I could not discover any holes for the water to leave that area, unless the small seems between where the splash shield is bolted onto.

                        regards
                        Ron
                        sigpicGreets,
                        Ronald
                        Kuusamo
                        http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...tryNumber=1741

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Vulkem / Trempro 626

                          A sealant used by most all Airstreamers... Vulkem.
                          Is really sticky stuff, and is still flexable on mine after factory installed 30 years ago.
                          Very tough to separate two panels sealed with it.
                          Not available at most consumer type stores... Graingers or simular will have it.
                          VULKEM is TREMPRO 626

                          You could use it without a panel, if hole is not too large
                          1959 Thunderbird HT

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                          • #14
                            Just found it at HD...
                            http://www.homedepot.com/buy/buildin...nt-180219.html
                            1959 Thunderbird HT

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