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changing master cylinder from single to dual-stage

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  • #31
    Originally posted by Dakota Boy View Post
    If you can point me towards a source for this adjustable push-rod, and I think I'm done with this topic for a year or so!

    or did you just make one by cutting the existing rod, threading the cut ends, and using a "barrel adjuster" sort of doo-dad?


    One more question: is there any reason not to route the passenger side front brake line along the back, across the transmission hump, instead of going all the way around the front under the radiator? "engine heat" concerns maybe?
    I don't know of any source for an adjustable push rod. I had a piece of steel laser cut. I didn't get it exactly to my liking the first time so I am having another one made - hopefully it will work better. If you just replace the MC, it can be on the same centre line as the old MC. I don't think you can reuse the existing push rod due to its shape. I'm not sure how you would make an adjustable push rod but it sounds great in principle.

    My new booster and MC are centered about 7" above where the original one was. My offset bracket includes a pivot arm. My push rod is shaped like a hockey stick to reduce the leverage on the pivot arm - hard to make adjustable.

    I don't see why it matters where you route the brake line. Mine crosses over on the backside of the cross member - I think that is where it was originally.
    Last edited by Howard Prout; November 30th, 2010, 12:52 PM. Reason: correction
    sigpic "Old Betsy" - my '59 convertible J9YJ116209 Thunderbird Registry #33341

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    • #32
      I just cannot swing the bills$ for the front discs right now, but on the other hand, I dont want a brake failure to cause me to wreck my car either.... so a modestly-priced dual drum/drum M/C is probably coming my way this winter...
      http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

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      • #33
        Originally posted by Dakota Boy View Post
        I just cannot swing the bills$ for...
        Save your money until you can get everything at once. The parts will be cheaper and so will shipping costs.

        Besides... your original M/C has worked ok for 50+ years. How much will you be driving your Thunderbird this winter?
        My latest project:
        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

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        • #34
          Dave (simplyconnected) is right that you would probably save a few dollars by buying both the MC and the booster as a package but you might want to check to see how much more (if any) it would cost to buy them separately. I think Old Irish Dave as well as others will sell you whatever you want. Another option would be to buy them both when you decide to change the MC but not install the booster until later. Installing them both at the same time would save some re-plumbing but I don't see that as a big issue.

          If I were just changing the MC, I would make an adjustable push rod something like the one shown in the attachment. The actual dimensions would depend on the amount of outset of your mounting bracket and the depth of inset to the piston of the MC. As discussed earlier, the advantage of an adjustable push rod is that you can get the length just right. Using fine threaded pieces will help make a finer adjustment. I have changed the design somewhat to facilitate making adjustments inside the engine compartment.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by Howard Prout; December 3rd, 2010, 09:46 AM. Reason: revisions.
          sigpic "Old Betsy" - my '59 convertible J9YJ116209 Thunderbird Registry #33341

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          • #35
            sprayed some fresh undercoat today.
            Attached Files
            http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

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            • #36
              It looks as if I have a 1 1/8" master cylinder on my car.

              The brake pedal has the little bracket for the bellows-type power brake booster, so perhaps that explains the master cylinder sizing.

              I've found they have 1" bore drum/drum dual master cylinders at Napa for less than $50.
              Attached Files
              http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

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              • #37
                Originally posted by Dakota Boy View Post
                ...I've found they have 1" bore drum/drum dual master cylinders at Napa for less than $50.
                The price seems about right. What kind of mount are you talking? What booster does it fit?
                My latest project:
                CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                --Lee Iacocca

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by Dakota Boy View Post
                  It looks as if I have a 1 1/8" master cylinder on my car.

                  The brake pedal has the little bracket for the bellows-type power brake booster, so perhaps that explains the master cylinder sizing.

                  I've found they have 1" bore drum/drum dual master cylinders at Napa for less than $50.
                  You better take out the parts and check. Mine suppose to have the upper size, so I bought that, but it was to small anyway in reality. But I have just bought a 1" now so I can change to a fresh one.
                  sigpic..."Lil darling Ruth"
                  http://www.tbirdregistry.com/#33158

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                  • #39
                    adjustable brake pushrod

                    I may be wrong, but doesn't the 1958-1960 T-Bird have an eccentric on the brake push-rod where it bolts to the pedal?? The 57 Ford I had had that and I think my 1960 T-Bird has it also.(I am too lazy to go out in th cold and look at mine}

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                    • #40
                      Yes, it does.
                      http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

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