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  • Changingg power brake booster

    Hi people.... i am noticing this ... got a 59 t bird with 352 on it and factory ac.. my current brake booster (under dash ) is gone ... since from my country its super expensive and would take ages to ship the unit and have it reconditioned...

    i was thinking about changing to a booster and master cylinder which fits in engine bay and eliminate the one under the brake pedal.... somebody knows which conversion is good for this purpose.. ? Or where i can find one new for sale... was thinking bout this in summit racing ... ... and would i need to alter pedal or else it would juwt link to it

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-760214 🤔🤔🤔 is this good ?

    Please need advice 🤓🤓🤓

  • #2
    That will not clear the A/C components. You want the booster/master cylinder combo that ABS Power Brake Inc. makes specifically for Squarebirds with A/C. The stock number is 9787 and the item number is 270556931229. Here's the link to their website. If you don't see if listed online give them a call. The master cylinder is for disc/drum. If you want to stay with drums all the way around you will need to change the master cylinder.

    http://www.abspowerbrake.com/index.html

    John
    Last edited by jopizz; July 27th, 2018, 03:46 PM.
    John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

    Thunderbird Registry #36223
    jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

    http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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    • #3
      Another thing to consider is what is readily available where you live? It may be easier to adapt something common for you with a bit of experimentation than to use what is readily available here.

      Comment


      • #4
        Great i phones the guy ... i ll check out the pricr and go fornit probably. Its working really erratically when depressing brake pedal .. by any chance when fitting this unit .. the old aystem can be removed aaway or shohlf be left there ?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Joe Johnston View Post
          Another thing to consider is what is readily available where you live? It may be easier to adapt something common for you with a bit of experimentation than to use what is readily available here.
          Yeah that can be an option but on such beautifull cars id rather wait and spend a bit more and have a proper replacement .. instead of having some odd job done on it by lousy mechanics:/

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Geoffreybusuttilmalta View Post
            by any chance when fitting this unit .. the old aystem can be removed aaway or shohlf be left there ?
            I'm pretty sure that most people just leave the underdash mechanism in place.

            John
            Last edited by jopizz; July 27th, 2018, 07:59 PM.
            John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

            Thunderbird Registry #36223
            jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

            http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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            • #7
              John's number for ABS is correct. CLICK HERE for the site. Part number 9787 is in the middle of page 95.

              You will need a combination (proportioning) valve for a disk/drum setup. Make sure the master dual-piston master cylinder's bore is one inch and the booster is a two-stage 8".

              All the hardware from the master to your brake pedal should be included in this kit.

              I recommend you use Scarebird.com brackets for your front calipers (part #GXY) and 11" Mustang rotors and 2WD S10 calipers. Mustang rotors use stock bearings that came on your drums and no alterations are necessary (over the counter and bolt-on).

              Mount all your devices, then plumb to them. You will re-pipe the whole brake system once if you follow this setup. Make your new front brake lines end at the frame rails just like a 1959 or 1960 Squarebird, then use banjo bolted hoses to the new calipers.

              Only three new hoses (2 in front and 1 at the rear axle) are necessary. (Please don't double-up on the front hoses if you have a '58 Squarebird. That was a 1958 manufacturing error as Ford considered using airbag suspension.)

              You can keep the old bellows booster or take it out. The old bellows does nothing to help so I would remove it. Your new booster will not need the old vacuum reservoir, either.

              One last thing: Tell those guys at ABS you have a THUNDERBIRD. They have a history of sending Lincoln firewall brackets to our members overseas. - Dave
              My latest project:
              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
              --Lee Iacocca

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              • #8
                Hello, I'm not sure if the Scarebird set-up will work on 14 inch rims. I'll try to double check later today.

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                • #9
                  Changingg power brake booster

                  Hi, Sherman, YES, the Scarebird set up DOES work on Squarebirds with 14" rims, but NOT the OEM 14" rims. You need to find a set of 5 14" rims that you KNOW came off a 70's disc braked equipped Ford car, like a Granada. Mine came off a Granada, and I got all five rims from the car, so that I had enough rims to rotate the tires around properly, when needed. There are a number of Squarebirds owners who have who have used the Scarebird setup with 14" disc brake ready rims.

                  If your tires are old or shot, you may want to switch to 15" rims and tires. You won't have a problem finding 15" disc brake ready rims, is my understanding. Otherwise, you are going to have to find 14" disc brake ready rims that match the same bolt pattern, etc. as the 14" rims you have on the car now. There are a good number of mid 70's Ford cars to consider, but finding used rims can be a hassle these days. I found mine at a junkyard, back around 2008-2009, but these days, it seems the junkyards are crunching those old cars and getting rid of them.
                  Last edited by YellowRose; July 28th, 2018, 03:09 PM. Reason: Additional Information

                  Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
                  '59 Tbird "The Yellow Rose Of Texas" aka "Tweety Bird"
                  "It's Hip To Be Square"
                  Thunderbird Registry #33025 VTCI #11178

                  Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or (Cell) 210-875-1411 (Home) 210-674-5781

                  http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                  • #10
                    Thanks, When I did my conversion I had 14 inch Kelsey-Hayes spoke wheels that would not work and I hated to get rid of them. In hind-sight I wish I had. The tubes are a pain!!

                    I hope Geoffrey reads your post.

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                    • #11
                      I don't know of a modern wheel sold today that isn't 'disc brake' compatible. Most of the speed shops offer hundreds of 14" rims. When looking for steel wheels the choices are fewer.

                      If you're still not sure, ASK the seller. Look for a Ford Ranger wheel or one from a Lincoln Versailes, Granada, Monarch, Mustang, LTD, or any 14"x6" (5-on-4-1/2" centers) that came from a vehicle with disc brakes. Then ,your OEM hubcaps will fit. - Dave
                      My latest project:
                      CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                      "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                      --Lee Iacocca

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jopizz View Post
                        I'm pretty sure that most people just leave the underdash mechanism in place.

                        John
                        I took it out, as it makes doing anything on the brake pedal or the booster rod, 1000 times easier.
                        59-430-HT

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                        • #13
                          Hi there my friend. I went through what you wrote to me regarding the abs brake booster i ordered for my 59 t bird. First of all thanks.

                          I noticed my original master cylinder got only one outlet for the brake line. While this got 2 .. which are marked R and F .. is there somethong i need to alter or plug ? I also recieved a brake light switch .with a fitting containing 2 outlets.
                          I noticed you seem to know very well the brake system. Today afer work i am going to remove the old unit from the brake pedal. If there are some things which i should know regarding the installation even the modt obvious would you be so kind to tell me please .

                          Regards

                          Geoffrey

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by jopizz View Post
                            I'm pretty sure that most people just leave the underdash mechanism in place.

                            John
                            I took it out, just to have easier access to brake pedal, as I moved my brake light switch inside (vs pressure switch). I did have to do light mods to bolt that holds both parts of brake pedal "together".

                            See pedal on right side, that is the convoluted setup needed to actuate an internal booster.

                            http://luxjo.supermotors.net/59%20T-...201_160008.jpg

                            Oops, didn't realize I already replied...............
                            59-430-HT

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Geoffreybusuttilmalta View Post
                              I noticed my original master cylinder got only one outlet for the brake line. While this got 2 .. which are marked R and F .. is there somethong i need to alter or plug ? I
                              I assume you are staying with the drum brake setup. Did you order the drum/drum master cylinder instead of the disc/drum master cylinder. You need to disconnect the rear brake line from the connecting block and extend it up to the port on the master cylinder marked "R" (rear). The original line goes to the port marked "F" (front). You will need to block the open port on the connecting block and plumb your brake line switch into the brake lines somewhere using an adapter. You can also convert to an electric switch on the brake pedal.

                              John
                              John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                              Thunderbird Registry #36223
                              jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

                              http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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