Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Holiday flush

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Holiday flush

    So I drained the coolant from the radiator and rocked the car side to side to get all the old fluid out prior to refill with Thermocure and water. Oddly I only retrieved 2 1/2 gallons of coolant yet the shop manual says capacity of 20 quarts (5 gallons). Refill was the same quantity. Why only half the volume? Do I have a major blockage preventing a complete drain or is the manual wrong? Thanks for responding.

  • #2
    You are not going to get all the old coolant out just by draining the radiator. You need to remove the drain plug in the block. You probably also have some coolant left in the heater core.

    John
    John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

    Thunderbird Registry #36223
    jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

    http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

    Comment


    • #3
      learn something new every day...

      I have experienced similar to Carolina TB when draining the system re qts of capacity. Never knew about the drain plug in the block. Thanks John
      Regards,
      Don Vincent
      Amherst NY
      1960 HT 352
      TBird Registry 34042

      Comment


      • #4
        About that drain plug...

        My radiator finally gave it up the other night at a local cruise-in, so I pulled it yesterday for re-coring. While that's getting done I thought I'd explore draining the block. The shop manual references "drain plugs located on both sides of the block", and I think I have located them, assuming there are only two. See pictures, left side then right side. Questions for the experts: On the left side, the drain cock is like the one on the bottom of the radiator. I've got it open about 1 turn but nothing seems to be coming out. Does it need to be open more than that, and does the car need to be at any particular angle to get proper drainage? On the right side, the plug is very close to the motor mount. Does this look correct? Will there be any challenges getting it back in?
        Thanks in advance!
        Attached Files
        Regards,
        Don Vincent
        Amherst NY
        1960 HT 352
        TBird Registry 34042

        Comment


        • #5
          I don't remember there being a petcock in the block, just drain plugs. Someone must've added that. I would open it as far as it can go. If nothing comes out try putting a wire through the hole. It may be blocked. The one near the motor mount isn't easy to get in and out but it's doable. The other option is to remove the water pump and flush the block through the front openings with a hose.

          John
          John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

          Thunderbird Registry #36223
          jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

          http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

          Comment


          • #6
            Holiday flush

            When Rob and Don were working on the install of the CAA "Perfect Fit" AC system on his 430, they found, for whatever reason, they were having a bit of a overheating problem. So they pulled the water pump and flushed the block through the front openings of it. As it turned out, the flush came out looking clean! So, apparently, that was not a problem. A bit later, Rob talked with the previous owner who told him that the water pump had been replaced about four years ago (which is what Don said, that it looked it might have been). At that time, it is thought that when they replaced it back then, they also did the engine block flush, which might explain why the flush came out looking good this time...

            As it turned out, they found that the PO had set the timing to 0 degrees! So they changed it to 10 but because of all the rain and lower temps, they have not been able to test it yet. But in the next few days our rain is supposed to go away and the temps back into the 90+ degree range. They intend to give her a good, long drive with the AC on and she how she does. If not that good, John has suggested they drop the timing to 9 deg. and see how that goes.
            Last edited by YellowRose; September 16th, 2018, 01:42 AM.

            Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
            '59 Tbird "The Yellow Rose Of Texas" aka "Tweety Bird"
            "It's Hip To Be Square"
            Thunderbird Registry #33025 VTCI #11178

            Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or (Cell) 210-875-1411 (Home) 210-674-5781

            http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

            Comment


            • #7
              Took the Bird out to the TBird Pageant in Anaheim, CA today and ran the AC in both directions. Temps got up to about 86F outside, and with the AC on full blast, the engine temps would get up to the "P", but that really doesn't bother me any more. The AC was worth more than the temperature gauge. When I got home, it was still up around the "P" on the gauge, but I checked everything I could with a temp gun and the highest I could find was 210F. With a 13 PSI pressure cap on the radiator and 50/50 mix of antifreeze, this shouldn't be a problem. Having the AC was well worth it after spending 5 hours in the sun in the park. I also noticed how many other owners had put 6 ot 7 blade flex fans on their cars. I do have the shroud and a 6 blade flex fan.
              Nyles

              Comment


              • #8
                I have abandoned trying to drain the block using the drain plugs. After managing to work the driver's side petcock loose and open 3-4 turns, nothing drained out. Poked up in there with a piece of wire - NADA. Since the right side is reportedly even more of a PITA to deal with, and with the results potentially disappointing, any further messing with the drain plugs will be down the road...


                Next up, remove the exp tank and water pump and see how that works for flushing the block. Gaskets and new thermostat on order.


                Meanwhile this is a fine opportunity to clean up the left side of the engine compartment along with the front. I tidied up the right side a couple months back, while having the heater core repaired. 58 years worth of crud. Here's before and after.
                Attached Files
                Regards,
                Don Vincent
                Amherst NY
                1960 HT 352
                TBird Registry 34042

                Comment


                • #9
                  Don fine work on the engine compartment Good stuff.
                  Dano Calgary,Alberta Canada
                  Thunderbird Registry
                  58HT #33317
                  60 HT (Sold )

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    radiator side seal

                    Thanks Dano! I really enjoy this sort of work because I find the payback to be amazing! Such a pleasure to install all new bumpers and gaskets and getting it back to looking nice. Since the rad will be like new or better when back from the shop, I'm planning to re-install the orig white 4 blade fan & proper spacer. I had installed a 6 blade fan and a 2 piece shroud (that I never really liked) years back but I'm hoping with a re-cored rad I should be able to go back to the stock fan config.

                    Meanwhile, does anyone know a suitable replacement for these vertical radiator side seals? I've checked the vendors but they don't seem to be being reproduced for 58-60. Thanks!
                    Attached Files
                    Regards,
                    Don Vincent
                    Amherst NY
                    1960 HT 352
                    TBird Registry 34042

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Meanwhile, does anyone know a suitable replacement for these vertical radiator side seals? I've checked the vendors but they don't seem to be being reproduced for 58-60. Thanks![/QUOTE]

                      Don:
                      Just looked in the Larry's catalogue and I think the number is B16137A, pg.41 on new cat. You could always call them to verify it is the correct part you need. Also, I'm pretty sure some of the vendors back there should also carry them.
                      BTW, $4.68/pr.
                      Don't get rid of the 6 blade fan and shroud. I have a new (3 core) radiator and took off the factory 5 blade fan and installed a 6 blade flex and also installed the shroud. When it's hot outside, I still need to watch the temp as it climbs really fast in stop and go traffic.
                      Nyles

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi Nyles Yes I'm hanging on to the 6 blade & the shroud...I'm just hoping that I won't need them any more. And yes I saw that item in Larry's but wasn't exactly sure what it was. They list B8348A on that same page as the 64-66 Radiator Side Seals but no other years but maybe that's something else altogether? I'll give them a call. Thanks!
                        Regards,
                        Don Vincent
                        Amherst NY
                        1960 HT 352
                        TBird Registry 34042

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          MACs list these as radiator to hood seals. Not quite correct, but looks like the right seals and has the same number as Larrys.
                          Nyles
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            well, I've probably shot myself in the foot here...

                            Yes Nyles, those are the ones. Thanks!

                            Things were moving along pretty well with the engine compartment cleanup until today, when one of the bolts for the expansion tank broke when trying to disassemble for clean-up and paint. So, minor panic and then some research and a trip to the local professional tool store for a proper bolt extractor and drill bit. Drilled the hole, no problem. Then, rookie mistake...after getting the extractor started...too much oomph, extractor snaps off. Panic mode is elevated and return to tool store for some professional advice. Long story short, the highest grade bits they sell don't put much of a dent in the extractor remnant which now must be drilled out as well. Last photo shows current state, with everything filed off flush

                            Have I really messed up here?? I need a beverage.
                            Attached Files
                            Regards,
                            Don Vincent
                            Amherst NY
                            1960 HT 352
                            TBird Registry 34042

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Carbide will get through it. The biggest challenge is staying on center. The standard answer would be a machine shop because they can use heavy machines to mill it out but that's not practical in this case.

                              Personally, now this is me... I would dry, then heat the area and try to soften the easy-out. This will help quite a bit. You already have a hole and heat will help break the threads. Then, I would make a drill guide using the large thermostat hole and the other bolt hole, to make a drill guide. I would also start small and work my way up using a good carbide bit. Not the kind for masonry but the kind machinists use. They look like a regular drill bit but the entire tip is carbide.

                              There is another method. It requires a dry environment and plenty of heat. Those bolts come out much easier when heat is applied. I've had plenty of practice with oil gallery plugs that rarely come out without stripping the head. I drill a hole in the middle (as you have) and apply heat until it's red hot. A drilled hole first, gives expanded metal somewhere to go. Then, pull the bolt out using either a nut and my welder or by using an easy-out (heat will destroy the easy out if left in too long) or simply grind a drill bit so that it is square. The common denominator here is heat. Sometimes I use a left-hand drill bit.

                              In any case, don't freak out, Don. This can be done. The hole goes all the way through, which is good. You may feel part of the bolt on the inside as well. The absolute worst case is when a bolt is bottomed and the head shears off.

                              Use harder replacement bolts with pipe sealant on the threads. - Dave
                              My latest project:
                              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                              --Lee Iacocca

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X