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  • Double Rear Wheel Click

    My '60 right rear wheel has a double click noise. It's not very loud and can be heard only with the passenger window down and a wall or curb to echo the noise. It's a double click, not a single like a stone in a tire. Braking, transmission engagement, and turning don't affect this. I don't seem to hear it in reverse, but I can't go fast enough to be sure.

    I took the tire and drum off to inspect and clean the brakes, but everything looks and operates well. I rotated the axle and I can't be sure if there's a faint noise or not. The wheel cover was eliminated as a last resort.

    The differential oil was changed about 2 years ago just after I installed new axle seals. Everything works fine.

    Any suggestions as to what's causing this?

    Dean

  • #2
    It could be anything from a wheel bearing to a u-joint. My suggestion is to put the rear up on jack stands and have someone slowly work the gas as you listen to see if you can pinpoint it. For safety make sure you chock the front wheels. If you don't have jack stands or don't feel comfortable doing it yourself you can certainly take it to a mechanic and have them run it while it's on a lift.

    John
    John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

    Thunderbird Registry #36223
    jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

    http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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    • #3
      Dean:
      This is kind of along shot, but are you running original rims with radial tires? If so, I've read that the original rims weren't designed with the rigidity to handle a radial tire. I found this out when a friend of mine changed to radial tires and couldn't keep the wheel covers from coming off when he went around corners. Never had a problem with the bias tires.
      Anyways, there could be a problem with the rim. An easy test would be to put the spare on and see if the noise goes away. If it does, I'd be suspect of the rim.
      Nyles

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Tbird1044 View Post
        Dean:
        ...I've read that the original rims weren't designed with the rigidity to handle a radial tire. I found this out when a friend of mine changed to radial tires and couldn't keep the wheel covers from coming off when he went around corners... Nyles
        Yeah, funny you should say that. I am running Coker Classic radials with original wheels. In fact this is a replacement original wheel (from OX1) because I suspected a problem with one of my OEM wheels when a new Coker leaked around the bead. After remounting the tire twice, then on the replacement wheel, I discovered one of the original set of Coker tires had a bad bead which caused the leak. That tire kept throwing wheel covers at a record pace. I replaced the tire and tightened all the wheel covers and haven't thrown one since last October.

        I'll try it sometime soon.

        BTW, one of our highly regarded vendors 'prefers' Diamondback radials because of the very issue I incurred with the bead.

        Dean

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        • #5
          Put the spare on the right rear and it's not a wheel issue. Also, it's heat sensitive because it only starts after warming up.

          Heard a funny noise turning right and it could be the spare or as John suggested: U-joints. I guess I'll wait until it gets louder to reveal itself because it's not worth tearing apart and replacing parts I can't confirm are bad. The old fashion way.

          Dean

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          • #6
            I had an issue with my 60 on the drivers side rear that only became apparent after it warmed up as well. After a lot of mucking around chasing phantoms it turned out to be a wheel bearing that let go in a big way in the end....
            sigpicBill
            Thunderbird Registry 21903 & 33405

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            • #7
              From my experience, at a guess I would also put my money on worn uni joints.

              Chris.....From OZ.

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              • #8
                Thanks. If it's a wheel bearing, and I hope not, that's a job for a shop. U-joints can be pressed out, or hammered out on a vice if you think you're up to it.

                I'm not sure why U-joints would make a right side sound, but anything is possible with a 58 year old car that just won't let me be.

                Dean

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                • #9
                  Dean do let us know what you find as the root cause for any future issues of this nature.Always good to have the findings and results
                  Dano Calgary,Alberta Canada
                  Thunderbird Registry
                  58HT #33317
                  60 HT (Sold )

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Dan Leavens View Post
                    Dean do let us know what you find as the root cause for any future issues of this nature.Always good to have the findings and results
                    Well Dan, I think it's too good to be true, but I can't hear the click after greasing the U-joints. I could tell from looking at the dirt covering the fittings that these haven't been attended to in a long time.

                    Before saying this problem is healed, let me see what happens over the next week and I'll keep you posted.

                    Deab

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                    • #11
                      That's sure a lot easier than replacing a wheel bearing. Good luck and let us know what happens.
                      Nyles

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