Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Eric's 1960 T-Bird

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Eric S
    started a topic Eric's 1960 T-Bird

    Eric's 1960 T-Bird

    Hello everybody

    since I will have a lot of information to ask while improving my 1960 coupe received in May 2017, I am opening a whole thread dedicated to it beside my "window mechanism opened last week : http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=22898

    To start it, being in the works to have the car ready for our next week trip, I would like to find a list of greasers on (under) the car. I located most of them I guess but I fear I may have missed some. So was wondering if anyone may have a chart/plan for that.

    Thank you
    Eric

  • Eric S
    replied
    Well, once tight I have a .017" gap on #4 and .005" on #2 and 3.
    Makes a little bit of noise, not too much. Can I drive 5 hrs next wek end is now the question.

    The other question is, how long does it takes to remove the heads to be machined. I assume the inlet manifold must go out, Do I have to remove the valves too?

    Eric
    Last edited by Eric S; July 15th, 2019, 04:00 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eric S
    replied
    I checked the flatness of the head and it is not. I had .005" on one side but noticed that almost all ports allow a gauge to slide in. I am going to have the manifold re-installed and see how it goes. After all, I had only a leak on one side so far and this may have been caused by the paste I used making a thickness somewhere.

    We may be able to make oyur next week-end trip then but I fear the heads will have to be eventually removed and machined.
    Previous owner used gaskets. I dig them out of my old parts bin and they look like they failed.

    Somethind different now, I missed to install correctly a suspension spring, forward. The end of the spring is 1-2" from the pocket but past it. Is there any chance it comes back in the pocket when driving or is there a trick to rotate it. I tried to lift the car to extend the spring but it remains impossible to rotate and there is 3-4 coils only so I can not use a spring compressor.

    Eric

    Leave a comment:


  • jopizz
    replied
    In my experience if it leaks machining both surfaces flat is the only fix. Gaskets or paste is only a temporary option and you will have to take everything apart again.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Eric S
    replied
    If it leaks then it'll mean machining, gasket or paste then?

    Leave a comment:


  • jopizz
    replied
    It's hard to tell by looking. I suggest you put a straightedge across the ports starting at the top. Then take a thin feeler gauge and see if there's a gap between the straightedge and all the head surfaces. Slide the straightedge down and continue checking it. If there's any gaps even thin enough for a piece of paper to fit behind it will leak.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Eric S
    replied
    John

    I don't plan to take off the heads so far !
    I had the manifold off just now. I noticed leaks almost on every cylinder. Maybe not leaks all the way out (yet?) so I cleaned the heads and the manifold. The latter came out quite clean as it has been machined.
    I am wondering is the head is "good enough". Pictured are the 2 worst. Other 2 are nice. But the one that had a leak is not one of those 2 pictured here !
    Shall I try like this and see what happen. Metal to metal...
    Last edited by Eric S; July 14th, 2019, 12:26 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jopizz
    replied
    The heads are not difficult to remove once the intake manifold is off. You can remove them with or without the exhaust manifolds attached. I used Permatex red gasket maker which is recommended for exhaust. However it did not last very long and started leaking again. After that I had the manifolds surfaced, installed them metal to metal and had no further leaks.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Eric S
    replied
    I did not checked them because, as said, I had them machined flat right away.
    The concern now is, as the leak is at the same place, that I may have damage on the head.
    Again how tricky is it to remove and replace them with engine in place?

    John, on http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ifolds?t=16727 you said that you use Permatex. Isn't it a paste?
    Last edited by Eric S; July 14th, 2019, 07:04 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jopizz
    replied
    When you had the manifolds off did you check the head surfaces to see if they were flat.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • jopizz
    replied
    The factory installed them with no gaskets and no paste. If they are leaking you need to have the manifolds surfaced to make them flat. They should be installed metal to metal. Neither paste nor gaskets will seal if the surface is not flat. Believe me I've tried both.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Eric S
    replied
    Some months ago I had the exhaust manifolds machined flat and re-installed them using paste instead of a gasket as advised on this thread.
    I had the car running a bit over the last few months but today it ran for more than 1 hour as I was cleaning the cooling circuit.
    And the exhaust manifold leaks again from the same place (right bank, rear clinder #4).
    I am not sure I used the right paste. The one I used dried with heat and the excess I see outside the manifold is more like plaster now that is is cured. I am wondering if I didn't get just a paste that you use to "glue" 2 exhaust pipes together?
    Is there different kind of exhaust pastes?

    Also is it really the right way to go without using gaskets sold by several vendors. I know I asked before and got replies that paste was the way to go but a good friend that use classic cars and built some told me that the exhaust might handle better the dimensions variations due to heat even though the head and manifolds are both made of same material?

    Also when I removed and re-installed the parts, the engine was lift up and some bits were removed.
    Is it possible to access all the bolts with everything in place. Thje engine was still yoo hot so I just tried with a couple of wrenches but it seems to be ... challenging to do.

    Eric

    Leave a comment:


  • Eric S
    replied
    The spring actually goes on top of the grey slide under the cover. Not between the 2 slides !

    I opened the motor and removed some brake fluid I used earlier for the "repair" and some extra grease.
    I put everything back, it works fine now but I noticed when the motor is off (as if you don't use the wipers) there is a suction noise. I don't take it as normal so I still have something wrong. I will re open it later.
    I assume that when it's off, the air goes through the lower port (air intake) and goes directly in the car's engine without going in the motor's body. I may have misplaced something inside.
    Will re open it later.

    EDIT
    Re-opened, cleaned thoroughly everything, blowing with compressor on all openings. Will make a new paper gasket on the small intake cover as it is damaged after too many removals.

    Now as everything is clean it seems to work better. Will give a try when I can start the engine in a couple of days to validate the repair in actual conditions before I put everything back in place.

    Hope that this can help somebody one day but for now any thoughts are welcome.

    Eric
    Last edited by Eric S; July 11th, 2019, 10:05 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eric S
    replied
    Today the wiper motor fell on my bench.
    I put some suction on it with a pump and reproduced the noise so it's well the motor. I was not sure where it was coming from on the motor but when I opened the top valve I noticed the black plastic slide is not flat. I am wondering about having a sheet of metal between the slide and the cover to increase the pressure from the cover on the slide.
    EDIT
    I added a small plastic tab between the 2 plastic parts and bent a bit the V shape flat spring. Wondering if I put the spring wrong before.
    I put it with the point of the V toward the top with the branches pushing the ends of the slide.
    Maybe pushing on the center of the slide would be better.
    I also bent the spring a little bit just in case.

    Made a rapid reassembly of the motor and sure enough my pump did not produced any noise, just normal movement of the motor.
    Just making a wrench so I can tighten enough the special nuts on the motor.
    Any idea about the importance and way the spring goes?
    Last edited by Eric S; July 10th, 2019, 09:06 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eric S
    replied
    John

    I did it and it does nothing.
    As I said, the strange thing is that the switch is off and the 3 hoses left open and it makes no difference.
    Again this morning; Big suction noise that stops after 1-2 minutes. I fear something in the motor is not air tight and after some suction builds up it works.
    It all started with the heat wave we had 2 weeks ago and that continues. Maybe something dried.

    Eric

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X