Eric's 1960 T-Bird

[Eric S]

Thank you Ray. I already contacted Neil earlier today with some questions. (I got used to check the TRL now !)

Thank you Eric. Will follow your path. What color the original manifolds were?
Can I remove them with the engine in the car?
Do I need exhaust manifold choke plate (9705K at Bird Nest)
Any paste/glue/grease/stuff on the metal?
What about the heat shields? On my other 60, (not working on it for now) there is remains of shields that seems to be period parts... (MS95000 at Bird Nest)

Thank you Nyles on the Steering column. However last week we tried to investigate and see what we could remove. So we had the steering column "U" bracket removed, Neutral switch removed, and slide off the shift tube (we managed to put it back in place but then understood it was better to remove everything as a single unit as it was really tricky)
However the steering shaft was stuck in place and we noticed a large nut against the box so we thought this was probably holding it in place.
Otherwise I can't see what was locking the steering shaft there? The main (outer) column was sliding back and forth but shaft stuck.

Cheers guys, you're priceless..

[scumdog]

Eric,

I learned the hard way that installing gaskets on the exhaust manifolds is a bad idea.

Here's my old post about the gaskets. Hope you decide to leave them out and have your manifolds surfaced.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ad.php?t=16727


Eric T.

I agree, I have one manifold that needed a crack welded up and I refaced it with a file but just to be sure I used some exhaust sealer that looks like toothpaste, (CRC Maniseal from memory), it dries hard from exhaust heat and expands as it hardens.
As it is water-base it also cleans up easily before it dries.

Some Hi-Temp RTV will also do the same job but can be messy.

[DKheld]

Tom - I had not seen that type sealer "in person" but my new Jeep has it - exactly as you describe - like toothpaste.

Eric - no paint on the original manifolds as far as I know. They were just left as they came out of the molds. I did paint mine with hi temp silver the last time I worked on them. Rust is already coming back through - possibly I didn't use enough paint or it just won't hold up at the very high temperatures. Some folks have their manifolds ceramic coated which also helps keep the heat in the manifold but the head on the FE engine shapes part of the exhaust manifold so you would probably see rust at the head portion anyway.

Here's a pic with the paint I used - was replacing the intake manifold gaskets and lifters. You can see the manifolds are still mostly silver but the head area is rusting. I had painted the head area hi temp black with the rest of the block.



As far as replacing the gaskets with the engine in the car - it has been done. I had access to a lift and a good shop area so it was just easier for me to pull the engine back out to work on my manifold problems. The 352 manifold on the drivers side is very close to the steering box so that poses a challenge. Also if the manifold has been replaced with a 390 style the clearances are even worse.

The choke plate should be on the manifold if needed. The small flat head screw was rusted in place on mine and took some coaxing to come out. You may not need the choke plate if your carburetor has electric choke. That plate is the cover for a small air plenum on the manifold hat heats up to provide hot air to the choke on the original carbs.

I wouldn't think the heat shields would cause an exhaust leak problem since they are just a flat piece of metal but I'll let the experts decide on those. The difference between the heat shield and the manifold gasket is the gasket has other material sandwiched in-between and that is what failed on mine.

[OX1]

However the steering shaft was stuck in place and we noticed a large nut against the box so we thought this was probably holding it in place.
Otherwise I can't see what was locking the steering shaft there? The main (outer) column was sliding back and forth but shaft stuck.

Cheers guys, you're priceless..

You don't need to remove steering shaft to fix steering col issues (or to get entire steering col out). In fact, I would not remove it unless you have steering box issues.

[jopizz]

The shaft is part of the steering box. It does not come out.

John

[Eric S]

About the heat shield. Do we need it?
Are they original?
What are the pros and cons of them?

On the power steering control valve and piston, I don't have a rubber boot. But here they sell one :

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1146460&cc=1336632&jsn=19

Is it missing on my car?

On the gear shift lever, the retaining pin has made an oval hole in the bell housing bejind the wheel. I understood that thisd is a common occurence that can be adresses by drilling oversize the whole thing and add a large pin. Am I correct?

On the gas tank level indicator, I have an L Shaped plastic connector that is cracked and do not make positive contact. Any chance to get a replacement or should I go with a simple round connector under the nut?

All dealer websites shows a Power steering pump filter. Different sizes. I don't have any filter in the oil reservoir. Is it supposed to be there? Do I need it?

On the battery hold down, I can see 2 models. 1 Square, 1 Rectangular. Car came with no clamp and a square battery but it seems to be too large as it touches the radiator hose. I guess I should use a rectangular battery. So square or rectangular?

[jopizz]

All dealer websites shows a Power steering pump filter. Different sizes. I don't have any filter in the oil reservoir. Is it supposed to be there? Do I need it?

I would say that half of the Squarebirds that I owned didn't have a filter. Is it needed? It probably wouldn't hurt to have one but I've driven many Squarebirds without it and haven't noticed any issues. Does your pump have the base that the filter sits on.

On the battery hold down, I can see 2 models. 1 Square, 1 Rectangular. Car came with no clamp and a square battery but it seems to be too large as it touches the radiator hose. I guess I should use a rectangular battery. So square or rectangular?

Squarebirds came with two different batteries, a 29NF (rectangular) and a 27F (more square). If you plan on buying a new battery 27F is much more common and easier to find. You may not be able to find a 29NF battery where you live.

John

[Eric S]

John

if the oil filter goes in the reservoir, then I can see no base or anything (oil is in there so can just feel with a screwdriver).

Since I have a square and good (27F) battery, I will stick with it even though it touches the radiator hose. But with a clamp in place at least it won't rub it.
Can I tell from the tray what battery was originally in the car or is it the same tray for both type batteries?

[jopizz]

Per the diagram if you don't have the base that the filter sits on then your pump didn't come with one.

The battery tray is the same for either size battery.

John

[Eric S]

On the steering column, since I am replacing the detent plate, shift lever and drill for a large pin on the collar hosuing/shift lever, how can I determine if there is some sloppiness in the bottom of the tube requiring taking the tube out?

[Eric S]

I called Bird Nest and they replied to most of my questions. I am ready to confirm my order.

However I still need to know the following :

1. On the steering column, since I am replacing the detent plate, shift lever and drill for a large pin on the collar housing/shift lever, how can I determine if there is some sloppiness in the bottom of the tube requiring taking the tube out?

2. On the power steering control valve and piston, I don't have a rubber boot. But here they sell one :

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1336632&jsn=19

Is it missing on my car?

3. On the gear shift lever, the retaining pin has made an oval hole in the bell housing bejind the wheel. I understood that thisd is a common occurence that can be adresses by drilling oversize the whole thing and add a large pin. Am I correct?

4. What color is the Oil Pan on a 1960?

5. What is the torque on the exhaust manifold?

[YellowRose]

Eric's 1960 T-Bird

Eric, usually sloppiness in the PRNDL is caused by more than one problem. The detent plate, worn shift lever AND worn shift tube selector arm at the bottom of the steering column... like mine was worn.. You should be able to see the wear in the notch and the inside of the ring. Here is a copy of what mine looked like when it was taken out. There is a notch in it which is supposed to be there, and it was worn, as was the inside of the selector arm.. Much of the problem is in that part after some 50+ years of wear. I can't answer all your questions, but perhaps this link will help. Here is information in the TRL that should answer some of your questions. Jopizz is out and will be back home later this afternoon.

http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_g...aintColors.htm

[jopizz]

2. On the power steering control valve and piston, I don't have a rubber boot. But here they sell one :

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1336632&jsn=19

Is it missing on my car?

The factory control valves did not have the rubber boot.

4. What color is the Oil Pan on a 1960?

Semi-gloss black

5. What is the torque on the exhaust manifold?

23-28 Ft. Lbs.

John

[Eric S]

Hello there
The more we look at our cars and the more we have questions. I guess that's what we like.

Under the Brake Master Cylinder cover, I have a broken flat, hard seal. I can not find it on Bird Nest. Do I need one at all? Cylinder was leaking from the top onto the steering column..

Was looking at the cowl drain page on the TRL

http://www.squarebirds.org/cowl_drain.htm

When it's raining, water comes down on drivers legs. Is there any relation?

Anyone knows where I can get a drawing (or picture) of a 1958-1960 car showing the whole bottom of car and the engine bay?

[jopizz]

Under the Brake Master Cylinder cover, I have a broken flat, hard seal. I can not find it on Bird Nest. Do I need one at all? Cylinder was leaking from the top onto the steering column..

You should have one. Just get some gasket material and make your own.

Was looking at the cowl drain page on the TRL

http://www.squarebirds.org/cowl_drain.htm

When it's raining, water comes down on drivers legs. Is there any relation?

You will have to take the cowl off and check where the leak is coming from. Sometimes the sealant around the wiper shafts will harden and it can leak around there. I've also had rust holes that can cause leaking.

John