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Eric's 1960 T-Bird

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  • On UPPER arms, bushings from Bird Nest are out.
    On the first 2 pictures, I put the bushings approximatively where the shoulders on the bushings rest against the arm.
    As you can see the new bushing from Larry's comes fully in contact with inner shaft.

    When both bushings inner sleeves are against the inner shaft, you can see that the new bushing from Larry's has the shoulder still out and so bushing can be driven further than the buhings from Bird Nest
    As you can see with caliper, there is about .2" difference.

    Last picture is my set up inspired by the Ford manual... With it and a selection of tubes I can remove and install bushings on the upper arms.

    SINCE I DID NOT GET A FIRM REPLY, I WILL DRIVE THE BUSHINGS EVENLY ON LH AND RH UNTIL THE INNER SHAFT HAS NO MORE PLAY I CAN FEEL . Hopefuly I can drive the press accurately enough. And no I am not comfortable with a hammer...
    Attached Files

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    • Originally posted by Eric S View Post

      Question remains as to how much tight I want the inner shaft to be held between both inner sleeves?
      Tight enough that dissassembly will not be required and they will go from the workbench to frame. Once aligned and after adjustments completed that should be it. With this one car...only saying because caster camber would only staighten out after loosening everything and resting the front end on the disks while re-tightening. Not a safe way of working at all.

      So then. Things are looking up with those bushings then ?
      Austin

      Comment


      • Thank you Austin although I am afraid I don't see exactly what you mean.

        I did installed upper arms bushings. All went fine. Went with my press and pushed them alternatively and evenly until the shaft is held. I still can rotates the shaft and feel the teeth of the inner sleeve.
        Of course I then stopped BEFORE the shoulder stop.

        On the Left Hand Lower, I removed the Bird Nest bushings that I MAY have pushed too much in just to stay on the safe side. I am pretty sue they were still usable as they where quite tight.
        As a reminder I pushed those old bushings all the way in to the flange but since the arm was not fitting in the frame, I pushed the bushings BACK a bit so I can install the lower arms but then I did not had to use shims on the front of the arms.

        So I took them out and installed new bushings from Larry's. Made some measures. Drove them EVENLY in until I can install the 2 shims originally there. I ended using 1 shim only with a very little play still remaining.
        Of course the serrations that are designed on the bushing outer slleve to prevent rotation inside the arm do not enter the arm as the bushings has not be driven enough in but can not be if I need to use shims.

        I hope I am clear in my descriptions and hope I will get approval so I can proceed with RH Lower arm.
        Attached Files

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        • Hello there
          from my notes, manual and pictures I took before disassembling there is no washer under the nut on the Steering Arm / Spindle Connecting Rods connection.
          Is that normal?

          And nobody wants to comment my bushings assembly below?
          I would like to tighten everything next saturday and don't want to make mistakes again...

          Comment


          • Well, arms are installed and all went fine. Sorry I did not get any comment to the process though.

            I installed the steering linkage and am having a bad time screwings in the power cylinder end.
            Can not get the nut catching the thread as new rubbers are too thick.
            Tried to press using c clamps but this is too much difficult with only 2 hands as they tend to slide away.
            Any idea?
            Attached Files

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            • Cut the thickness of the washers by 1/2, that's the only way they will fit.
              Carl

              Comment


              • The new one's all come that thick now?
                I'd grab a couple stud shock bushings and call it a day.
                59-430-HT

                Comment


                • Thank you Carl
                  I cut 3mm-1/8" on each one so I can engage the nut.
                  Question though. How tight is tight enough on those rubbers?
                  Same on the sway bar. How much do we have to tighten the nuts on the link?

                  Also I asked before but did not get a reply. Where goes the nut "cover" on the bottom of the picture below?

                  Thank you for your help.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • I haven't seen specs on tightening when there are rubber bushings. I normally tighten until the rubber deforms a little. The jam nut you show is used to lock against the nut so that the nut does not back off. When rubber bushings are used, lock washers make no sense so this jam nut keeps tension on the nut and the threads to prevent its' loosening.

                    Comment


                    • Thank you again
                      I can't remember how this jam nut was installed. Does it goes in before the nut and the nut on top of it. But the nut do not fit inside the jam nut?

                      Comment


                      • It's not really a jam nut, it's a lock nut. The main nut goes on first. The lock nut just butts up against the main nut to prevent it from coming loose. You can accomplish the same thing by using two regular nuts.

                        John
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by jopizz; December 3rd, 2018, 06:30 PM.
                        John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                        Thunderbird Registry #36223
                        jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

                        http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                        • As for the clock, I tried to repair it myself following advice in the TCL...
                          Then I showed it to a repair man. He said it is beyond repair or cost would be excessive.
                          Now, beside the Bird nest option at 199$, what other solution do we have?

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Eric S View Post
                            As for the clock, I tried to repair it myself following advice in the TCL...
                            Then I showed it to a repair man. He said it is beyond repair or cost would be excessive.
                            Now, beside the Bird nest option at 199$, what other solution do we have?
                            See if Carl Heller on here has one, or have a look on e-bay.
                            sigpicFrank
                            1958 T-Bird "Trov„o Rosa" - "Rose Thunder"
                            Thunderbird registry #61670

                            Comment


                            • Eric's 1960 T-Bird

                              You can also ask John Draxler of Thunderbird Ranch if he has an OEM one in his stock. Go to the Advertisements Forum, look in the T's for Thunderbird Ranch and shoot John an email. You can also post in the For Sale / Parts Wanted Forum that you are in need of a clock from a '58-'60 Squarebirds. Those who have Squarebirds that they are parting out may have a good working one...

                              Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
                              '59 Tbird "The Yellow Rose Of Texas" aka "Tweety Bird"
                              "It's Hip To Be Square"
                              Thunderbird Registry #33025 VTCI #11178

                              Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or (Cell) 210-875-1411 (Home) 210-674-5781

                              http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                              • Thank you for the information about the clock. I am waiting a reply from John Draxler.

                                Installed today the exhaust manifolds. Is there any trick to tighten the bolts to torque?
                                My wrenches can not fit most of bottom bolts so I went by hand.
                                Concerned about RH lower 2 rear bolts that are really tricky to reach.
                                Tried to remove the starter but it do not slide out and can barely slide my hands and am not sure whether I went very high on torque value with a small wrench...

                                Next step is to check the rear wheels for alignment. What is the best way to check that the rear axle is "straight"?
                                I remind you that 1.500kms in the french and swiss alps last june following friends in Cobras destroyed the (incorrect) rubbers under the leaves and probably moved the whole axle...
                                Last edited by Eric S; December 10th, 2018, 03:17 PM.

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