Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Power steering system leaking

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    It can only leak because the spool seals or the spool seal bushings are worn. That's the only part of the control valve that has fluid in it. The rest of the valve is dry except for grease around the ball stud. There's no reason to use a hammer. Use a puller instead. All you are going to do is dent the body and then it's useless.

    John
    John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

    Thunderbird Registry #36223
    jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

    http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

    Comment


    • #17
      [QUOTE=Infinite Monkeys;"I'm not sure where the leak is in the valve so I want to replace all the seals. Seems the best way to do this is on a work bench and not laying under the car and having to work with just inches of space."

      The beauty of this is that the PS control valve can be serviced easily on the car. Turn your wheels to the right and the control valve comes right toward you at the left tire. 2 screws hold the end cap exposing the adjusting nut. Remove the adjusting nut and the washers, spring, valve spool, and more washers come out in order.

      This isn't difficult at all, but I can tell you I made it more difficult like you imagine it to be. You'll kick yourself in the can if you take it off the car to replace the washers.

      Dean

      Comment


      • #18
        I've had a suspicion that I'm over-thinking this. Although it would be nice to have the new tool, it is about $40. I'll give it a try without removing the valve.

        Thanks.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Infinite Monkeys View Post
          I've had a suspicion that I'm over-thinking this. Although it would be nice to have the new tool, it is about $40. I'll give it a try without removing the valve.

          Thanks.
          Both Autozone and Advance Auto have a loan a tool program. The tool itself is $14.99 at Advance Auto.

          John
          John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

          Thunderbird Registry #36223
          jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

          http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

          Comment


          • #20
            Since I'm going to replace the seals with the valve on the car and will not be replacing the ball stud, what kit do I need. Here are two I'm looking at, which is the one I need to stop the leak?
            One obviously has a lot more parts, but is it what I need? Or will the cheaper option do?

            Thanks again.

            https://www.wilsontbird.com/parts/19...ve-rebuild-kit

            And:

            http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_th...s-1958-60.html

            Comment


            • #21
              The kit from Mac's includes a seal for a 1958 Thunderbird which you don't need. If you don't want to pay extra for a part you won't use then order it from here.

              https://www.larrystbird.com/product/...t-5960-2-seal/

              John
              John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

              Thunderbird Registry #36223
              jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

              http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by jopizz View Post
                The kit from Mac's includes a seal for a 1958 Thunderbird which you don't need. If you don't want to pay extra for a part you won't use then order it from here.

                https://www.larrystbird.com/product/...t-5960-2-seal/

                John
                So all I need to stop the leak are 2 seals?

                Nothing else from the complete kit from Pat Wilson's?

                Thanks.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by Infinite Monkeys View Post
                  So all I need to stop the leak are 2 seals?

                  Nothing else from the complete kit from Pat Wilson's?

                  Thanks.
                  That's all you need. Two little seals is all that keeps it from leaking. That's assuming that the spool and cylinder are in good condition and not scored. Normally they are fine. Just make sure you put the seals in correctly and not backwards. Follow the instructions in the shop manual.

                  John
                  John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                  Thunderbird Registry #36223
                  jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

                  http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by jopizz View Post
                    That's all you need. Two little seals is all that keeps it from leaking. That's assuming that the spool and cylinder are in good condition and not scored. Normally they are fine. Just make sure you put the seals in correctly and not backwards. Follow the instructions in the shop manual.

                    John
                    Thank you.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Got the seals today. I'm having trouble putting in the first seal into the steering ram. I've already ruined one, kit I got came with two, so I have another shot at it.
                      Looks like there is a lip on the edge of the shaft that's catching the edge of the seal. I've filed down the lip, but still not working.
                      Shaft and seal are lubed with fluid.
                      It'll go on fine if I put it on backwards, but I'm sure that'll leak.

                      Any thoughts?

                      Thanks.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I don't know what to tell you. As you can see by the diagram the seals go on either end of the spool. The lip of the seal goes toward the center of the spool.

                        John
                        Attached Files
                        John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                        Thunderbird Registry #36223
                        jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

                        http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I meant the steering ram seal. I need to get it on the rod. The spring end on the seal must point to the cylinder, but the lip is cutting the seal when I try and install it.

                          Thanks.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Sorry, I should've read your post more carefully. I think I used a plastic collar that slips on the outer shaft so the seal won't tear. It doesn't mention anything like that in the manual but I've had the same problem.

                            John
                            John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                            Thunderbird Registry #36223
                            jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

                            http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              I wonder if the seals were origanly put in from the cylinder side and then the ram was welded?

                              That's the only way I can see to put the first seal in without tearing. I tried again with the second seal.......Got a new kit on the way.

                              $20 lesson learned.

                              I have a week to file away at it to get a nice taper on the end of the shaft. Maybe I'll have better luck next time. The lip is definitely the issue.
                              Last edited by Infinite Monkeys; September 7th, 2017, 07:24 PM.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                You might want to try putting some heat shrink tubing over the shaft. That should soften the transition so the edge isn't as sharp.

                                John
                                John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                                Thunderbird Registry #36223
                                jopizz@verizon.net 856-779-9695

                                http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X