Leaking rear axle seals

[simplyconnected]

Same here!

Take off drum, undo backing plate/retainer bolts, put rim back on, (Sometimes facing the wrong way can give you an advantage if space is tight) put on the lug-nuts a few turns each and slam away!

I like Tom's answer better than mine because instead of assuming too much (like my answer), he offers full details. Good answer, Tom.

After thinking about this, the 'fabrication side' of me kicked in. It's easy to adapt a barbell plate into a slide hammer. I'll let you figure out the rest but this idea can use any weight and length you like. For myself, I'll stick to the 'loose tire' method because it works. - Dave

[DKheld]

I already had the slide hammer..... darn.

Missed all the fun using the wheel method.....

Have a look.....
http://squarebirds.org/users/DKheld/...aring/resized/

[YellowRose]

Leaking rear axle seals

Thanks to Eric ~ DKheld, that Tech Tip that he wrote some time ago, has been in the Technical Resource Library for all to view and use! Thanks again for putting that terrific Tech Tip together with pix, Eric!

[DKheld]

No problem!!!

In this pic you can see the drainage hole at the bottom of the axle housing for the gear oil to drain away from the brake shoes etc.




Just a thought - and that paper gasket could easily fail after 50+ years - but if your leak is inside where the shoes are it could be the wheel cylinders leaking brake fluid ????

Eric

[Frango100]

Thanks again for the answers guys. Its really diff fluid what is leaking. Also all my brake cylinders are new, changed them shortly after purchasing the bird last year. Now i will need to find some time to tackle this job.

[Frango100]

So I pulled both axle shafts today. No puller needed or even the wheel trick, I could take them out by just pulling with two hands. Some China made bearings are on there now. Both bearings rotate freely and only on the left hand side I could feel a very little bit of play. But I wonder if the external dimensions of these bearings are exactly as should be, since I suppose that removing with little hand force doesnīt seem to be the right way. No signs of them rotating inside the axle tubes though.
On both sides, the area where the oil seal is touching, the axle is not smooth. On the left hand side there are some small imperfections, which maybe with some polishing can be removed. On the right hand side however, some backyard mechanic probably put some grinder on there during the removal of the bearing lock ring and touched the axle. The area is not perfectly round and I doubt that this can be restored with polishing.
@ Yadkin, do they sell the repair sleeves somewhere, or where they made by the repair shop? To remove the bearing, this sleeve has to come of again I believe?

[Yadkin]

@ Yadkin, do they sell the repair sleeves somewhere, or where they made by the repair shop? To remove the bearing, this sleeve has to come of again I believe?

The machine shop I used ordered them for me. As I recall they did so based on the shaft dimensions, not make and model. They are specialty parts that any decent axle repair shop should have access to.

[Frango100]

I found repair sleeves called "SKF Speedy sleeves". Someone used these?
Still trying to find a shop here locally which does axle repairs, but so far no results.

[DKheld]

Here is a link to a couple of articles on how we do the same procedure on the MG's.

I'm not familiar with SKF brand but would guess they are as good as any.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra101.htm

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/hub_13.htm

Eric

[Yadkin]

I found repair sleeves called "SKF Speedy sleeves". Someone used these?
Still trying to find a shop here locally which does axle repairs, but so far no results.

Find a reputable shop. The axles can't be heated because they will lose strength. As I recall the procedure was to cold-machine a spot on the axle using a lathe, then cool it down (probably with dry ice), heat up the sleeve and then put it on.

[simplyconnected]

SKF offers, Spedi-Sleeve in a range of sizes from under 1/2" through 8".

No heat or machining is necessary and no heat/cold therapy is used at all. These sleeves are made of thin metal and they come with a driver. Thin metal will expand when driven onto a larger diameter thus creating a perfect interference fit and a smooth surface for your seal.

If you prefer a machine shop to install, ok but this system isn't very technical aside from supplying an accurate shaft measurement.

CLICK HERE

Sleeves are commonly used on crankshafts for the timing cover seal. Many of our vendors carry that seal sleeve. - Dave

[DKheld]

Check that first link about installing the sleeve on an MG axle - same thing and great instructions (with pictures !).

Also - the good news is a new larger seal should not be needed.

"As the new sleeve is just 0.010" thick, it will work nicely with the standard hub seal."

I've been really lucky with all my axle work so far and haven't needed a sleeve.

Eric

[pbf777]

Back before these commercially available repair sleeves were available, for the 9" Ford axle one would acquire the seal adapter sleeve installed (pressed) on the 31 spline application axles and use the seal for the 31 spline axles vs. the 28 spline seal. All done, all Ford.

Yes I know, some more "back-in-the-day" obsolete information. But hey, back when you figured it out it was useful; today, it's only maybe, a good story, if someone cares.

Scott.

P.S. If someone has cut, hacked, wacked, ground, chiseled, torched, welded, or some other ham-fisted D.A. execution ----THROW THE AXLES AWAY!----!!!! (actually, they make good tent stakes, driven into the ground, big flange, can't miss with the sledge hammer) Axle failure (the wheel flies off!), particularly at speed, is no fun.

[Frango100]

I see that Rockauto sells the Redi- Sleeves from National and some SKF Speedi-Sleeves as well. I will measure tomorrow the axles and see if they have the right size available.

[Frango100]

I just had a look at the ring gear this morning and see quite some pitting on both sides of the contact surfaces. That could explain the humming noise which comes from the diff at higher speeds. I didnīt see any metal glinsters in the fluid, but it looks somewhat darker then when I had put it in around 1000 miles ago. The pinion looks still ok as far as I can see, but both should be changed as a set I believe. Rockauto has them from Dorman and Dana. Probably Dana will be the best way to go? Best would be to change all the bearings then as well. They also sell a complete bearing and seal kit, which also has the crush sleeve and adjusting shims for the pinion and some marking material to check the gear engagement. I didnīt check the spider gears yet, I hope that at least they are ok.
Since I just bought some material from Carl, all this diff work must wait a bit until fundings allow.