Couple of issues that have me confused. I tried to put every single thing I did in the steps that I have done every thing.
Running issue. When I got the bird, it didn't run right. Ended up having to change plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, vacuum advance, ignition, ignition wire, had so many issues making it seem like fuel pump, bad spark, ignition wire.
1st I changed was fuel line, as it was rubber from the fuel pump laying on the valve cover around back into the back passenger side of the carb.
2nd replaced coil, cap, rotor, points, vacuum advance(bad)
3rd I saw sparking on the #1 spark plug wire never thought of them cause they only had 30 miles on them, so I replaced them. And the plugs while I was at it. When I was installing them they wouldn't fit in length. Found out that the distributor was 180 out. Fixed it.
4th found the ignition wire was bad because I could start it and it would shut off replaced it.
After doing all these things, I didn't have much of an issue with it as long as I didn't try to do a burnout or floor it. As long as I give it light pedal from a light it was fine. I could go 80moh on the highway no problem whatsoever. If I got caught up in bumper to bumper traffic or sitting idling it would back up flood. I just drove it thru the driving season. After the season was over, first thing that came off was the carb and sent in to the shop to do a professional rebuild. I could have done it myself but I wanted to make sure that it was done properly. Basically I wanted to make sure I didn't screw up. I believe it is an Edelbrock 1406 I know it is a 600cfm and has an electric choke. Which is big enough for the 430 because that's what came factory. I figured it was an accelerator pump issue. Still has the same issue. This car starts perfectly as soon as you turn the key it is running. No cranking to get it started and it just purrs.
I am at a loss for it. The only thing that wasn't changed was the distributor(shaft).
My settings are as follows:
I was worried that the timing had slipped as a lot of the old Fords did. But It was done with the bring the piston to TDC and then check the timing line and it is exactly where it should be so I know it is in time perfectly that way and then the final part was done manually setting the distributor by hand with the vacuum advance hose off and plugged
6 degrees BTDC
Point gap is .016.
Carb screws are about 1 1/4 turn out
I forget what the spark plug gap is but it is set to factory spec.
2nd Issue.
Power windows. Both passenger sides stopped working (out of the blue). I pulled the center console to check power. Passenger rear was almost unplugged plugged it in and tried it and got nothing. So I pulled drivers sides off and passenger front worked but not back. I tested them for voltage and the passenger back one had no voltage. While moving them around the drivers door window stopped working.(no voltage) so from what I see I have one bad switch and driver door and passenger rear no voltage. This strikes me as strange because the fronts are connected from the same power source with a red with a blue line. So they should be drawing current or neither? I don't know where the 15a & 30a is hidden at. Is it behind the wall where the wires go into the hole near the gas pedal is at? I didn't spend a whole lot of time at it. Because I am stumped with both right now.
Any suggestions to either?
.
Running issue. When I got the bird, it didn't run right. Ended up having to change plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, vacuum advance, ignition, ignition wire, had so many issues making it seem like fuel pump, bad spark, ignition wire.
1st I changed was fuel line, as it was rubber from the fuel pump laying on the valve cover around back into the back passenger side of the carb.
2nd replaced coil, cap, rotor, points, vacuum advance(bad)
3rd I saw sparking on the #1 spark plug wire never thought of them cause they only had 30 miles on them, so I replaced them. And the plugs while I was at it. When I was installing them they wouldn't fit in length. Found out that the distributor was 180 out. Fixed it.
4th found the ignition wire was bad because I could start it and it would shut off replaced it.
After doing all these things, I didn't have much of an issue with it as long as I didn't try to do a burnout or floor it. As long as I give it light pedal from a light it was fine. I could go 80moh on the highway no problem whatsoever. If I got caught up in bumper to bumper traffic or sitting idling it would back up flood. I just drove it thru the driving season. After the season was over, first thing that came off was the carb and sent in to the shop to do a professional rebuild. I could have done it myself but I wanted to make sure that it was done properly. Basically I wanted to make sure I didn't screw up. I believe it is an Edelbrock 1406 I know it is a 600cfm and has an electric choke. Which is big enough for the 430 because that's what came factory. I figured it was an accelerator pump issue. Still has the same issue. This car starts perfectly as soon as you turn the key it is running. No cranking to get it started and it just purrs.
I am at a loss for it. The only thing that wasn't changed was the distributor(shaft).
My settings are as follows:
I was worried that the timing had slipped as a lot of the old Fords did. But It was done with the bring the piston to TDC and then check the timing line and it is exactly where it should be so I know it is in time perfectly that way and then the final part was done manually setting the distributor by hand with the vacuum advance hose off and plugged
6 degrees BTDC
Point gap is .016.
Carb screws are about 1 1/4 turn out
I forget what the spark plug gap is but it is set to factory spec.
2nd Issue.
Power windows. Both passenger sides stopped working (out of the blue). I pulled the center console to check power. Passenger rear was almost unplugged plugged it in and tried it and got nothing. So I pulled drivers sides off and passenger front worked but not back. I tested them for voltage and the passenger back one had no voltage. While moving them around the drivers door window stopped working.(no voltage) so from what I see I have one bad switch and driver door and passenger rear no voltage. This strikes me as strange because the fronts are connected from the same power source with a red with a blue line. So they should be drawing current or neither? I don't know where the 15a & 30a is hidden at. Is it behind the wall where the wires go into the hole near the gas pedal is at? I didn't spend a whole lot of time at it. Because I am stumped with both right now.
Any suggestions to either?
.
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