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which alternator. 3 or 1 wire.

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  • #16
    Yes, "S" stands for START and "I" stands for IGNITION. "S" starts at the Key Switch and continues through the Neutral Switch.

    Leave the "I" wire off. Your new starter has no provision for it but that wire isn't necessary if your battery is good.

    If you want to 'bump' the engine with a remote switch, you can still do it by using the splice you made on the "S" wire and a remote button.
    My latest project:
    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
    --Lee Iacocca

    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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    • #17
      ok. So splice you mean run 2 connections off the 'S' wire. So where does my 12 volt to coil+ come from. Haha, I HATE wiring. But all your help is great.
      Thanks Chris.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by chris58 View Post
        ok. So splice you mean run 2 connections off the 'S' wire. So where does my 12 volt to coil+ come from. Haha, I HATE wiring. But all your help is great.
        Thanks Chris.
        To use a 'remote start button', you simply connect one button clip to Battery + and the other to the 'S' wire.

        (We determined that you will disconnect the 'S' wire from the old solenoid and splice a new wire to it for your new starter motor.)

        Your ignition coil (+) terminal gets the same ballast resistor wire it always had. When you turn the key on, it makes your coil hot.
        My latest project:
        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

        Comment


        • #19
          Excellent mate. So the hot wire will be the blue/yellow wire according to thedrawing I have.
          no the ignition system I have is a Mallory dissy with coil and a new ballast resister. Do I use the new resister, will it matter if I have 2 of them.
          The way things are going right now I should have all my wiring done by the weekend. Thanks heaps.

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          • #20
            These wiring changes can be done in 1/2-hour with plenty of time to pop a Foster's.

            Look at your original Ballast Resistor. The Red-Green wire comes from your Key Switch. The Blue-Yellow goes to your distributor.

            If you bought a Mallory setup and it includes a Ballast Resistor, Coil and Distributor, you need to use those parts that came with this system.

            Disconnect the wires from your original Ballast Resistor and remove the resistor from your firewall. Now, replace it with the Mallory Ballast Resistor. Connect the new just like the old; Red-Green feeds the resistor and Blue-Yellow feeds the Coil.

            A word about Ford's color code...
            Blue-Yellow may mean two things: A blue wire with a yellow trace OR a blue wire with a yellow END CAP (or terminal end).
            The same holds true with Red-Green. It may be a red wire with a green stripe (trace) or a red wire with a blue END CAP.

            Some folks never notice the end color or they don't understand it. Without knowing this scheme it's impossible to identify wires. Yes, some wires change colors with age but you can usually scrape down to the original colors or find a section that is not faded. - Dave
            My latest project:
            CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

            "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
            --Lee Iacocca

            From: Royal Oak, Michigan

            Comment


            • #21
              Thanks Dave, I'm home from work now and into all this and going pretty well so far. I've located the old resister and am in the process of changing it, I've got the wire from ignition but have found 2 wires on the coil +ve end. None of my drawings show an extra but they look factory and not sure what it is..
              Thanks.

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              • #22
                Yes, they appear on the drawings. Both wires appear on the Coil, not on the Ballast Resistor. From the Coil, one goes to your Starter Solenoid (I)gnition post. The other goes to your Ballast Resistor.

                You can do without the one going to your Solenoid because it simply bypasses the Ballast Resistor as your Starter Motor is spinning.
                My latest project:
                CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                --Lee Iacocca

                From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                Comment


                • #23
                  All good Dave. I found it. All done now just waiting on alternator to arrive and we should have some noise in the garage.
                  Thanks heaps, if you were nearby I'd definitely be buying you a beer or 3.
                  Cheers Chris.

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                  • #24
                    Yes Chris, I would take you up on that but let's substitute the beer (it reminds me of liquid bread). Gimme Rye Whiskey, neat.

                    This is where Robin & I don't see eye to eye. She's American Indian and German. (Indians name their children for natural events which is why her name is Robin Dawn.) She loves beer but can't take whiskey without mix. I love it.

                    Every once in awhile I say, "Honey, let's have a shot together."
                    Then she gets that look in her eye and I hear a sheepish... "(sigh) ok.."

                    She tolerates 7-Crown but I like Rye. We drink... Then, the fire water sets in. That's the part I'm waiting for because her Indian roots start to surface and she gets real fun. She's the best **** woman I ever had and I love her to the ends of the Earth. I thank God every day that she puts up with my Limey @rse.
                    My latest project:
                    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                    --Lee Iacocca

                    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Not a problem. Whatever you wanted.
                      Sounds like a good woman mate. Any woman that loves a beer has to be.
                      Thanks again and no doubt I'll be pestering you again with more wiring info.
                      New aftermarket gauges next, I can hear you cringing already haha.
                      Cheers Chris.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Not at all... I was hoping for a challenge but you haven't given me one, yet.
                        I want to see some pictures as well. - Dave
                        My latest project:
                        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                        --Lee Iacocca

                        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Haha, I'll have try harder then. And yes I'll send u some pics soon to put up for me.
                          Just a quick one I'm now installing the tachometer in the car and everything is easy except the + ignition wire. As there's no fuse box in these old cars I was going to run an inline 5amp fuse to a suitable wire, which wires is my best option. Or can I just run directly to+ve coil or ballast resister.
                          I'm definitely covering a lot of topics in this one thread.
                          Cheers.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Ok, let me guess which kind of tach you have.
                            Ford used to use mechanical tach's that ran off of the distributor. Since you said you have a different system, that can't be it.

                            Conventional tach's (like my old Sun Super tach's) simply ran four wires:
                            T (or GREEN) - trigger - connect to the coil's negative (-) terminal.
                            B (or RED) - battery - connect to the "A" terminal on your Key Switch.
                            G (or BLACK) - ground - connect to a good solid chassis ground.
                            L (or White) - light - connect to any Blue-Red Dash Light wire.

                            Pull +12 off your Key Switch if you use your own fuse OR one of these fused wires will do:

                            The Flasher Unit, Radio and Heater Switch each have their own fuse and each turn on with the Key Switch. (Don't use the Clock or Brake Light fuse).

                            Read the instructions for your tachometer manufacturer. If you need to kick up the fuse amps on an existing fuse, go ahead and do that. You can fabricate by using a modern fuse with two 1/4" female blade connectors, then splice into the Key Switch "A" terminal. Tape up any exposed wires when done.

                            So, which tachometer do you have? Is there a brand and model? - Dave
                            My latest project:
                            CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                            "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                            --Lee Iacocca

                            From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              It's autometer gauge. the wiring configuration is the same as you've described. That's easy enough, was just curious as to which wires are most suitable.
                              Thanks.

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