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352 running hot - where to start?

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  • 352 running hot - where to start?

    I'm in the process of making my new 60 H.T. road ready. My biggest problem towards that end is that she runs hot. I would appreciate the benefit of the forum's collective experience on where to start in solving this problem. Any advise? Thanks,in advance.

  • #2
    Are you leaving plenty of room in the expansion tank? I have seen those filled to the top and then folks think the car is overheating when it dumps the fluid out the overflow. Only need about an inch or so of fluid in the tank - the rest of the empty area for expansion.

    I think the cap is a 13lb for the 352 - is that what you are running?

    The water pumps are fairly stout - I've never had an impeller fail but rather it would leak from the front seal - still cooled though. Maybe a clogged radiator? - has it been boiled clean? - or possibly your hoses are collapsing under load. I use the type that have the internal spring. Be sure and use at least a 50/50 mix of water to coolant.

    Has the motor been bored quite a bit? .060 over or such?

    I'm sure some of the other folks will have some ideas....

    Good luck,
    Eric
    registry 5347
    Last edited by DKheld; May 4th, 2012, 09:52 AM.

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    • #3
      As a first step, I would encourage you to use the "tools" this site provides. It is very helpful. Click on the search option in the black area near the top of the page. Type in a key word or phrase that you want to research, in your case "temperature" or "running hot". Read all of the links that pertain to your situation. You will get the combined information from the folks here that I'm sure will assist you.

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      • #4
        Running hot

        Good advise. Thank you both for your thoughts. I plan to have the radiator removed and rodded out, replace the t'stat (with a 160?), replace the bottom hose with one that is reinforced (in case the old one is collapsing), flush out the block and see what happens. I know the motor has had a valve job, but have no way of knowing if it has been bored out. Has anyone tried a shroud and 6 blade fan? How about an electic fan? Thanks, again, for your input.

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        • #5
          Hey Charles,
          Welcome! My '60 also ran hot. First thing I done was flush radiator and get new coolant in her. Next I found a fan shroud and a six blade fan off a '63-'64 Galaxie and got them installed. The metal fan shroud will fit there are only slight modifications needed at the bottom brackets. WATCH RUNNING SCREWS OR DRILL BITS IN RADIATOR SURROUND! Space in between support and coils are tight.
          Richard D. Hord
          sigpic'60 Thunderbird "Christine"
          Registry #33436

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          • #6
            Shroud and fan

            Did all that fix the problem? Thanks for the information about mounting the shroud. May I ask what you had to pay for the fan and shroud?

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            • #7
              352 running hot - where to start?

              In the 160 F vs 180F thread, Astrowing said this.

              To answer the question on what is standard, 180 deg F is standard when used with antifreeze, and 160 deg F would be used with plain water and rust inhibtors only.

              You can find '63-'64 Galaxie metal shrouds on eBay from time to time. I think mine cost me $100 or so. I bought a 6 bladed flex-fan from one of the local auto parts store. I have not had any overheating problems.

              There are members who are running electric fans on their Squarebirds. I was thinking of doing it myself. If you go that route, you are probably going to have to replace your generator, if you still have one, with a high amperage alternator that will handle the load.

              Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
              '59 Tbird "The Yellow Rose Of Texas" aka "Tweety Bird"
              "It's Hip To Be Square"
              Thunderbird Registry #33025 VTCI #11178

              Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or (Cell) 210-875-1411 (Home) 210-674-5781

              http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

              Comment


              • #8
                When your car was new it didn't run hot and it came with NO shroud, six-blade mechanical or electric fan, or 160* t-stat.

                The more you get your cooling system back to stock, with everything working properly, the better off you will be.

                Let's start with losses:
                * Is your heat riser valve working, or is it stuck shut?
                * Is your block all gummed with mud? Not surprising after sixty years.
                * Water pump vanes all there and not worn down or eroded away?
                * Radiator free-flowing?

                When your thermostat operates properly, it isn't there to cool the engine, it is there to warm the engine by shutting off all flow untill temps hit the proscribed marking on the thermostat bulb.

                Running without a thermostat is ok, but that doesn't fix your cooling system's efficiency. Running a six-blade fan taxes more HP, but doesn't fix your efficiency, either.

                The last thing I omitted is your head gaskets. They direct flow to the rear of your engine first. This is important. If your head gaskets are plugged or rusted out (yes, they get big holes in the coolant passages), water will take the path of least resistance and bypass the back side of your engine.

                Thorough flushing includes removing your block's core plugs, using a (coat hanger) wire and a garden hose, then replacing the six plugs with 1-3/4" brass.

                Anti-rust or rust inhibitor (phosphoric acid) only works for three years in anti-freeze. That's why it's important to change it. Most folks don't. They don't change their DOT-3 brake fluid either. - Dave
                Last edited by simplyconnected; May 4th, 2012, 01:59 PM.
                My latest project:
                CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                --Lee Iacocca

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Charles Nix View Post
                  Did all that fix the problem? Thanks for the information about mounting the shroud. May I ask what you had to pay for the fan and shroud?
                  Hey Charles,
                  I stole the fan on Ebay Buy now and I think I payed $35.00 for it. Now the fan shroud is a different story. Several guys and me got into bidding war. I ended up paying around $175.00!
                  Yes that took care of the problem. Used to if I got her out and it was in the 90's I would be lucky if she did not start spitting antifreeze! After fan and shroud replacement, 90's she will be lucky to touch the T on TEMP!
                  Keep us posted!
                  Richard D. Hord

                  P.S. Ebay item number 230783587569 and item number 230783561199
                  Last edited by Richard D. Hord; May 4th, 2012, 02:47 PM.
                  sigpic'60 Thunderbird "Christine"
                  Registry #33436

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    curiosity

                    To Daves point I remember our 58 with a/c running across the nevada/california highways in 100 degree heat and not overheating.
                    Out of curiosty if someone has a good clean stock radiator W/O a shroud and 6 blade fan and can shoot the upper and then lower hoses with an infrared temp gun it would give us an idea of how much heat a stock radiator removes. Conversly if someone has a clean stock or upgraded radiator with shroud and six blade fan and did the same we could have an idea of what advantage (at least at idle) the two systems provide.
                    Just an idea.
                    Grant
                    Grant
                    NCbird on the Coast of NC
                    "Dads Bird" for my father

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                    • #11
                      I have a 460 hooked up to the original radiator.

                      The radiator is clean, but I needed a fan shroud and some Water Wetter coolant additive. I also have a 6-blade fan.

                      It doesnt get hot anymore.
                      http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

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                      • #12
                        I only have one pic to share:

                        I'm kinda surprised nobody commented on the heat riser.
                        My latest project:
                        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                        --Lee Iacocca

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm gona get my 60 out hopefully the weekend. Mine is all stock with 4 blade fan and new rad. Good idea with temp gun i'll post results. Ya know best laid planes go south quick.

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                          • #14
                            Yep - you caught me on the heat riser Dave. I removed the vane on mine 20 years ago or more so don't have to worry about it as far as heat build up. Of course - it would be nice to have it on those cold fall morning drives. At the time nobody had a replacement either NOS or aftermarket.

                            Good catch.....

                            Penelope's block looks like it pooped - good (no great) example of how the minerals in the water, additives, and etc can build up in the block.

                            I like the temp gun idea too Grant - will get some readings next time I have the Tbird out for a cruze.

                            Eric

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by DKheld View Post
                              Yep - you caught me on the heat riser Dave. I removed the vane on mine 20 years ago...
                              430's never had a heat riser valve. We don't need them, either. That's why aftermarket offers a replacement spacer.

                              Question: How could conventional flush methods clear out crud like in the pic if all coolant must flow through the head gasket holes? This core plug is in the center of the block so you know the rear cylinders never saw flow.
                              My latest project:
                              CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                              "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                              --Lee Iacocca

                              Comment

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