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  • Originally posted by gaffney1951 View Post
    nice lighting for the pics. Mike
    Thank you!
    VTCI# 11860
    58HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37043 (Sold)

    60HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37252 "Lucille" (Sold)

    Comment


    • Beautiful Job !!
      sigpic
      Mike Lemmon
      '59 Raven Black Hardtop

      http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...tryNumber=2461

      Comment


      • Installed the Pertronix and a new coil today in hopes that it would correct the drivability issue I’ve been having. Other than the engine starting faster and a bit snappier throttle response, it appears to behave just as before.

        For those that don’t know my situation; the car doesn’t seem to have much power. The car bogs down at wide open throttle or under a load and doesn’t seem to get a chance to downshift. In D1, she upshifts fine, but under a load, she’s very sluggish. Would the vacuum advance have anything to do with this? I wanted to replace vacuum advance, but one of the two screws broke and now I can’t get it off.

        I knew once I popped off the cap that my issue wasn’t the points, cap or rotor because they look brand new.



        The weights moved freely. Per the instructions, I cleaned the surface with acetone to ensure the igniter box has a good ground.


        I properly gapped the unit using the clear shim provided in the kit.


        Here’s the old coil. I’m a little confused with the terminology. The coil is not marked – or +. Instead, one side is marked “DIST” and the other “BAT”. I would think the side marked “DIST” is + and the side marked “BAT” is -, but why would they call the negative side battery? Anyway, on the new coil I hooked up the pink resister wire from the ignition switch to the + side and the black wire from the igniter to the – side per the instructions, so it should be OK.
        VTCI# 11860
        58HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37043 (Sold)

        60HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37252 "Lucille" (Sold)

        Comment


        • The car has a new tank, sending unit, fuel lines, fuel pump and the carburetor is about 2 years old. The plugs, wires, rotor and cap look pretty new, but I did not install them.
          VTCI# 11860
          58HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37043 (Sold)

          60HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37252 "Lucille" (Sold)

          Comment


          • Please visit my site to see Penelope's new distributor. CLICK HERE

            As we discussed, what's the slop in your timing chain? Did you rotate the crank by hand to check it?

            I know your odometer shows 50k. If it does have 150k, there is a remote possibility that your timing chain has jumped a tooth. That's why you need to check degrees of slop.

            There are other reasons for a sluggish engine besides the distributor advance:
            Tired and leaky valves
            Low compression
            Low vacuum
            worn camshaft
            restricted air intake
            restricted exhaust (including a stuck heat riser valve)
            restricted fuel delivery (including semi-clogged gas filter or pinched hose)
            mis-adjusted transmission linkage at your intake manifold.

            Most of these topics are covered in the Shop Manual. - Dave
            My latest project:
            CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

            "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
            --Lee Iacocca

            Comment


            • Originally posted by simplyconnected View Post
              Please visit my site to see Penelope's new distributor. CLICK HERE

              As we discussed, what's the slop in your timing chain? Did you rotate the crank by hand to check it?

              I know your odometer shows 50k. If it does have 150k, there is a remote possibility that your timing chain has jumped a tooth. That's why you need to check degrees of slop.

              There are other reasons for a sluggish engine besides the distributor advance:
              Tired and leaky valves
              Low compression
              Low vacuum
              worn camshaft
              restricted air intake
              restricted exhaust (including a stuck heat riser valve)
              restricted fuel delivery (including semi-clogged gas filter or pinched hose)
              mis-adjusted transmission linkage at your intake manifold.

              Most of these topics are covered in the Shop Manual. - Dave
              Dave, thanks for the checklist. I donít know where my brain was today, I completely forgot to check the slop on the timing chain. I had to run out and pick up a waterproof car cover to protect Lucille from Sandyís rain. Looks like itís going to start raining tomorrow, so Iíll have to run some diagnostics next week.
              VTCI# 11860
              58HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37043 (Sold)

              60HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37252 "Lucille" (Sold)

              Comment


              • Originally posted by NYsquarebird58 View Post
                ...I wanted to replace vacuum advance, but one of the two screws broke and now I canít get it off.

                ...The weights moved freely. Per the instructions, I cleaned the surface with acetone to ensure the igniter box has a good ground...
                Wait a minute... if you never took the vacuum advance off, you couldn't have taken the pivot plate off to inspect the weights or springs underneath.

                Buy a new vacuum advance from Rock Auto. Yours looks terrible. Most of them don't last fifty years. While you're at it, get two of the 'weaker' advance springs. This distributor needs help. I suggest you pull the distributor out and inspect the bearings while you're at it.

                It's not unusual for these screws to break. The housing is aluminum which reacts with steel screws (I use stainless or brass). You may need to grind the screws off and re-tap the holes. It's important to get to the bottom, and my post shows you how. - Dave
                My latest project:
                CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                --Lee Iacocca

                Comment


                • Originally posted by simplyconnected View Post
                  Please visit my site to see Penelope's new distributor. CLICK HERE

                  As we discussed, what's the slop in your timing chain? Did you rotate the crank by hand to check it?

                  I know your odometer shows 50k. If it does have 150k, there is a remote possibility that your timing chain has jumped a tooth. That's why you need to check degrees of slop.

                  There are other reasons for a sluggish engine besides the distributor advance:
                  Tired and leaky valves
                  Low compression
                  Low vacuum
                  worn camshaft
                  restricted air intake
                  restricted exhaust (including a stuck heat riser valve)
                  restricted fuel delivery (including semi-clogged gas filter or pinched hose)
                  mis-adjusted transmission linkage at your intake manifold.

                  Most of these topics are covered in the Shop Manual. - Dave
                  We hit a high of 61 today so I figured Iíd get back outside and start diagnosing my power loss issue. I started with the heat riser valve. It looks like itís missing some pieces externally. At first I tried a pair of pliers to see if I could get the valve to move, but that didnít work. I then tried a pair of vise-grips, but all that did was chew things up. At this point, one thing I knew for certain was that the valve was stuck. I didnít know if it was stuck open or closed, so I decided to pull the valve off. The valve is seized pretty good and it looks like itís not completely open, but I donít think itís closed enough to cause the kind of power loss Iím experiencing so Iíll keep going down Dave's checklist until I find the root cause.

                  I heard someone makes a spacer for the heat riser valve. Does anyone know where I can get one?









                  VTCI# 11860
                  58HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37043 (Sold)

                  60HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37252 "Lucille" (Sold)

                  Comment


                  • Mac's sells the spacer for $22.95. I'm gonna pick one up.

                    Part# B9AE-9A427-SP
                    Attached Files
                    VTCI# 11860
                    58HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37043 (Sold)

                    60HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37252 "Lucille" (Sold)

                    Comment


                    • These folks have them ( http://www.concoursparts.com/ ) - item B9AE-9A427-SP but you already have what you need.

                      Cut the vane out, cut the shaft in the center then pull the shafts out and weld up the holes - viola - spacer (and you already know it is the right size)

                      I'm with Dave on the linkage but with that different carb than original it might be hard to get it adjusted just right - wouldn't know where to start myself.

                      Are the secondaries vacuum operated on that carb or mechanical?

                      After seeing your brake work though - I know you'll find the problem.....just a matter of when. I'll be following along to see what it is.

                      Eric

                      Comment


                      • I simply cut the center out of my Heat Riser Valve with a cutting torch. Then I left the holes filled (they're pretty solid). Mine has the counterweight and spring on the outside which looks stock, but nothing moves. I also agree that, you already have one that you're going to throw out. Save twenty bucks and use it.

                        If you don't have a torch, most muffler shops would be glad to cut it out for you. Nothing here affects emissions.

                        The heat riser valve speeds the engine warming process. Without it, your engine will still get hot, but 1/2-mile later. In this day of 'fuel economy' being king, the benefits of a flow-thru exhaust far outweigh faster warmup.

                        BTW, as I mentioned over the phone, when your heat riser valve sticks shut, not only is the exhaust restricted but your cooling system must get rid of the excess exhaust heat crossing over your intake manifold. An unrestricted exhaust carries the heat away. - Dave
                        My latest project:
                        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                        --Lee Iacocca

                        Comment


                        • It's been just over a year now since I took home my bird. In a year I've learned so much and am very thankful to the community and the good friends I've made.

                          This old bird has tested and fought me every step of the way, but with every turn of a screw and twist of a bolt, we've grown closer. I can't wait till the snow melts away and Spring time finally comes, so I can get her up and running again.
                          VTCI# 11860
                          58HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37043 (Sold)

                          60HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37252 "Lucille" (Sold)

                          Comment


                          • Marcelo, you have sacrificed life and limb in a great effort to resurrect Lucille, and it shows. She looks fabulous. I don't know of anyone who has shown more enthusiasm and a hunger to learn this hobby than you. WE have benefited from your tire and wheel fitment trials and your power disk brake findings. The list goes on as you have freely shared your resources and restoration pictures with everyone on our forum.

                            I am humbled in the belief that this is exactly why Alexander started Squarebirds.org, so friendships like yours can be shared with Thunderbird enthusiasts and restorers all over the world. I am richer for it. - Dave
                            My latest project:
                            CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                            "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                            --Lee Iacocca

                            Comment


                            • Aw-shucks, Dave. Thanks for the kind words. Alexander created a special place here that is really not like any other.
                              VTCI# 11860
                              58HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37043 (Sold)

                              60HT - Thunderbird Registry Number: 37252 "Lucille" (Sold)

                              Comment


                              • I believe the main difference is that everyone on this board just wants to help their neighbor, and is mature enough not to "flame" and attack other members.

                                I'd say that is pretty darn rare in this day and age.
                                http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

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