΄58 Rear suspension "issues"

[Anders]

Ruth is working better than stock, thanks to your engineering efforts, Anders. She looks sharp.

How old and what type of rear shock absorbers are you using? Are they 'heavy duty' shocks?

Huuh...
Have no clue. They are black, and works....
How can I see this?

[Astrowing]

Your car is awesome! A lot of work over the winter. So the rear bushings that are installed and that you are happy with are 35 shore, the softer compound?

Summer is here in Texas, 95F (35C) here today in Houston!

[Anders]

Your car is awesome! A lot of work over the winter. So the rear bushings that are installed and that you are happy with are 35 shore, the softer compound?

Summer is here in Texas, 95F (35C) here today in Houston!

So far, VERY happy It rides just fine, as nothing works against anything anymore. It was a big difference and a big relief.
One thing to mention is that when the car sat on the ground without any rubber, there was space for 2 of the thick instead of one thick and one thin. When my rubber was made, I got some extra material left over that was just enough to make another set of the thick, so I now use 2 thick 35:s on each side and there is no play, but also no forces as they are soft. They just allow the rear axle to travel and kind of damp the outer ( up & down ) limits of the travel softly instead of a sudden stop that stresses the upper control arm bushing & bolt into the support frame. Springs and dampers are original, so handling is like it should be.
Will take a picture tonight.

[Anders]

Got the car good enough in order to give it a spin and see if the winters effort was worth the time spended.
It was! The rear suspension works GREAT. No more stiff feeling over speedbumps, no knirks, squeeze or klonks.... Now that was a big, not to say hughe relief.
Engine starts and runs great, idle seems just perfect, tranny shifts supersmooth and she don΄t leak from the engine, tranny and the rear axle.
But the brakes SUCKS!
Need heavy adjustment.
Love my new Coker tires as well. Chrome is back, but as you see, not yet put on. Hood will come on now as everything in the engine bay seems to be in order.

Edit: I have brakes now Very good ones as a matter of fact

After buying a "Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit" I changed all the parts in the brake master cylinder, mounted it back, the pedal kind of felt strange. Didn΄t want to move more than half the distance. To fast forward a few days, after taking everything apart without see any problems, I suddenly discovered that the hole in the "piston" in the master cylinder rebuilt kit was by some very strange reason just to small for the pistin rod. So it all got stucked. Now, I drilled up the hole in my lathe and put it together, adjusted the rod and, voila!, I got brakes. Good ones as well.
I΄m quite a happy man

[gaffney1951]

Looks like ...

it's all coming together nicely. Should be a good summer. Mike

[Anders]

@ Astrowing: I can not answer your PM before you have deleted some post in your inbox.

[Astrowing]

Got my mailboxes cleaned up. Sorry about that!

[Anders]

Latest ( and hopefully the final... ) update:
The new rubber all works fine, but as it is not tighteen anymore, as the original set up, there was some rattle and metal noice when I drove over a speedbump.
So I decided to test some ideas in order to make it quiet but keep the ride as comfortable as before.
The first I did was a sleeve ( in Delrin ) that goes inside the long metal tube in order to take up the play. I also did some ( 3 pcs on each side ) 1,5 mm thick nylon washers and 2 pcs ( each side ) of 3 mm thick rubber washers. Worth to mension is that my main bolt is little longer than the original.
It works very good and all the noice disapeared.

As I use soft 35 shore rubber, I use 2 pcs of 1" rubber on each side instead of one 1" and one 1/2".

The order is: First put one of the big rubber dampers in between the trailer arms. Then put one thin Nylon washer on the bolt. Then one rubber washer. Next is to put this through the trailer arms from above. Next is to put the long metal sleeve into the other rubber damper and push it up from underneath so the metal sleev goes into the upper damper rubber. Push the Delrin sleeve into the metal sleeve and another thin Nylon washer before the big ( hughe ) metal washer. Then the rubber washer before finishing off with the last Nylon washer and the lock nut. I tighteen the lock nut so it΄s even to the end of the bolt.
All I can say is that I am VERY happy with the result

[Astrowing]

RP1 8111 K8135
Rear TracK Bar BUshIng set (I)
Set of 2 bushings made of steel-encapsulated rubber. Replaces Ford
part #C6AZ-5A639-B, which was a bar and bushing assembly.
’66 - ’70 Ford except 427.......RP18111.......................set.........139.95
Lower Control Arm BUshIng KIt (J)Contains 2 bushings. Requires 2 kits per vehicle.
’65 - ’70 Rear axle................. K8135...........................kit............29.95
CC801
Rear CoIl sPrIngs (K)
Please specify year, engine and with or without air conditioning.
’65 Ford 352..................CC505.........................pr....... ... 119.95

’66 - ’70 All............................CC801........................ .pr............99.95

Has anyone looked at these parts to determine if they would work on the '58? They are in the Autocrafter full-size Ford catalog.