Been traveling guys - so sorry about being late to the show.....
I added A/C to a non-A/C car - the booster needs to move outward 1 3/4 inches. That will give you "almost" 1/4 inch clearance between the booster bracket and the factory style A/C evap. plenum on the firewall and 3/4 inch between the booster and the valve cover. Don't forget that the pedal "rod" will need to be lengthened by the same amount or replaced with an adjustable one to have the same pedal height when the booster is moved out. The booster does not "have" to move up but for ease of installing the bolts on the newly made bracket I would suggest about 1 inch or a little better on the height.
My booster is a rebuilt stock unit with the modified face to accept a modern style master cyl. (Booster Dewy) Never had any trouble with the boost feeling insufficient. Maybe less pedal pressure is needed with the newer dual style boosters but my system feels just as it did before (same amount of pedal pressure needed to stop the car) only with the disc's it stops in a straight line - as many times as I want to.
It's been a while since I did mine (wow! - almost 6 years?) but I believe I used a 72-77 Lincoln Mark V master cyl to fit the modified booster. Probably could have looked around and found one where the lines came out on the fender side (Mustang?) rather than the motor side but I was glad to find one that worked. I used a common plumbing washer to seal between the master cyl and the booster. I can get that seal number later if any one wants the info.
Grant - the set-up looks great. It would have been so much easier to add the spacer bracket in between the stock bracket and booster but as you mentioned they are riveted together. Didn't want to tear into a newly rebuilt booster so had to add mine where the dealer would have added the spacer if they were adding A/C to a car - between the firewall and booster bracket.
Looking at your pics again - you might want to consider putting the proportioning valve on top of the mounting bracket if it will fit there - the bracket would act as a heat shield for the proportioning valve rather than having the valve closer to the manifold.?. Mine was really close to the manifold so I remotely mounted my proportioning valve down on the frame.
Eric
registry 5347
I added A/C to a non-A/C car - the booster needs to move outward 1 3/4 inches. That will give you "almost" 1/4 inch clearance between the booster bracket and the factory style A/C evap. plenum on the firewall and 3/4 inch between the booster and the valve cover. Don't forget that the pedal "rod" will need to be lengthened by the same amount or replaced with an adjustable one to have the same pedal height when the booster is moved out. The booster does not "have" to move up but for ease of installing the bolts on the newly made bracket I would suggest about 1 inch or a little better on the height.
My booster is a rebuilt stock unit with the modified face to accept a modern style master cyl. (Booster Dewy) Never had any trouble with the boost feeling insufficient. Maybe less pedal pressure is needed with the newer dual style boosters but my system feels just as it did before (same amount of pedal pressure needed to stop the car) only with the disc's it stops in a straight line - as many times as I want to.
It's been a while since I did mine (wow! - almost 6 years?) but I believe I used a 72-77 Lincoln Mark V master cyl to fit the modified booster. Probably could have looked around and found one where the lines came out on the fender side (Mustang?) rather than the motor side but I was glad to find one that worked. I used a common plumbing washer to seal between the master cyl and the booster. I can get that seal number later if any one wants the info.
Grant - the set-up looks great. It would have been so much easier to add the spacer bracket in between the stock bracket and booster but as you mentioned they are riveted together. Didn't want to tear into a newly rebuilt booster so had to add mine where the dealer would have added the spacer if they were adding A/C to a car - between the firewall and booster bracket.
Looking at your pics again - you might want to consider putting the proportioning valve on top of the mounting bracket if it will fit there - the bracket would act as a heat shield for the proportioning valve rather than having the valve closer to the manifold.?. Mine was really close to the manifold so I remotely mounted my proportioning valve down on the frame.
Eric
registry 5347
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